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Hello guys and girls I'm looking for help


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10 minutes ago, Bod said:

P.s. Get a copy of the B.S.S. regulations, available on line, and make sure all work done on the boat conforms.   

https://www.boatsafetyscheme.org/media/268789/ecp-private-boats-ed3_rev2_apr2015_public_final.pdf

 

Plus, you must fit at least one CO detector. 

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Thanks again for the info I will check out the links asap.

So I think I got a idea of everything I need

 

1 The batteries  Id like to run lithium.

But just going deep cell leisure batteries for the time being

 

2 solar wil be 255w panels

 

3 A 12V/230VAC OFF GRID INVERTER WITH INTEGRATED MPPT BATTERY CHARGER.

So it can run the boat from

solar / batteries and Grid.

 

4 A 12v fuse box 

 

5 A garage 2 way consumer unit

 

5 Arctic blue 2.5 mm for running the  230v  power.. ( washing machine  TV  and what ever else.) But I don't think I'll use much at all. 

 

6 Arctic yellow 1.5 mm for running the 12v Led lights / fridge / pumps / out side front light 

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21 hours ago, Nathan 0121 said:

So i have some money that I can buy the steel with and know a welder so will get good deal on the welding.

As long as it's just the back should be ok . If not I'll bite the bullet and get it over plated

 

 

You're unwise to get any old welder to repair or overplate a steel boat. It really needs to be someone who knows what they're doing. I hope yours does.

 

https://www.iims.org.uk/the-dangers-of-overplating/

Edited by blackrose
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1 hour ago, blackrose said:

 

You're unwise to get any old welder to repair or overplate a steel boat. It really needs to be someone who knows what they're doing. I hope yours does.

 

https://www.iims.org.uk/the-dangers-of-overplating/

I have a people that could do it as there welders buy trade but work in steel fabrication. Or get A Mobil boat welder to come sort it out I have been looking around. But need to start phoning some the problem is I don't know the extent of the work needed it could just be the two pin holes. The boat was meant to have had a new bottom fitted 7 years ago. 

 

I kind of wish I paid for the survey first but at the price I got the boat. And the current prices of boats online I believe I could get it completed and still be 10/15k under most asking prices.

Edited by Nathan 0121
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6 hours ago, Nathan 0121 said:

Arctic yellow 1.5 mm for running the 12v Led lights / fridge / pumps / out side front light 

No - remember the volt drop.

 

12v cabling on boats bears little relationship to current capacity, its all about volt-drop.

 

There is no way you will run a 12v fridge on 1.5mm2 cable. Depending on distance from the batteries you will probably need 6mm-10mm (allow 1mm2 for each metre distance from the batteries),

 

Use 2.5mm throughout except for the fridge and pumps.

If the volt drop is too much the pumps will run but overheat and reduce their life, or, burn out as they draw too much current.

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6 hours ago, Nathan 0121 said:

Thanks again for the info I will check out the links asap.

So I think I got a idea of everything I need

 

1 The batteries  Id like to run lithium.

But just going deep cell leisure batteries for the time being

 

2 solar wil be 255w panels

 

3 A 12V/230VAC OFF GRID INVERTER WITH INTEGRATED MPPT BATTERY CHARGER.

So it can run the boat from

solar / batteries and Grid.

 

4 A 12v fuse box 

 

5 A garage 2 way consumer unit

 

5 Arctic blue 2.5 mm for running the  230v  power.. ( washing machine  TV  and what ever else.) But I don't think I'll use much at all. 

 

6 Arctic yellow 1.5 mm for running the 12v Led lights / fridge / pumps / out side front light 

6. Will not work!!!

That cable is far too lightweight for all but LED lights. 

You will get voltage drop problems. 

See my previous post #25

Look for "cable sizing" in the website mentioned. 

 

Bod

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20 hours ago, WotEver said:

 

My BSS 'chappie' wanted 'one in each accommodation area'.

Was not going to argue the toss about it and put one in each cabin and one in the dining room / galley.

 

I'm happy to 'over safety'.

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24 minutes ago, Alan de Enfield said:

 

My BSS 'chappie' wanted 'one in each accommodation area'.

Was not going to argue the toss about it and put one in each cabin and one in the dining room / galley.

 

I'm happy to 'over safety'.

Would he have failed you if you didn’t or was it just his personal preference?

 

The regs require a second or third to meet “A carbon monoxide alarm must be located within 10m of any door that links accommodation spaces.” 

Edited by Chewbacka
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6 minutes ago, Chewbacka said:

Would he have failed you if you didn’t or was it just his personal preference?

 

The regs require a second or third to meet “A carbon monoxide alarm must be located within 10m of any door that links accommodation spaces.” 

I don't know - I just asked him his 'understanding' of the new regs when I booked him and he said '1 in each accommodation area'

 

I know the BSS actually says "in rooms with ……………." but I made my own interpretation of one in each 'enclosed' cabin and one in the kitchen / dining room.

 

Having had one 'go-off' in the middle of the night I'm glad it was at the side of the bed and proved it would wake me.

 

For the sake of (I think) £50 for three (fully compliant Part 2 marine versions) 'life-savers', I'd 'just do it' anyway.

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On 28/07/2019 at 11:44, cuthound said:

According to the OP he is a domestic electrician. If so he will have a good understanding of mains electrical practice and theory.

 

The previous owner of my NB, claimed to be an electrician. 

Tomorrow, I am forking out a £1000 to sort out the basics! 

 

 

 

Edited by LadyG
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