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Tiller has come loose


Timx

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The bearing has completely disintegrated. If it happened above the locks there was a boat yard there, could've sorted it, but now below the Bingley five and three rise, don't fancy doing up and down again.

i will see if I can find matching on line.

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You need to measure the shaft diameter, accurately, not the outside.  Do you have a caliper gauge? If not do you have a big adjustable spanner to use as a measure against a ruler?

 

As a last resort, remove the bearing inner and measure it then.

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1 hour ago, Timx said:

It says F208 on the pic, so is that a particular size ? I will look on line

That's for the housing, it will take a range of bearings:

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NBR-Pillow-Blocks-Bearings-Flange-4-Bolt-Fits-1-1-2-1-9-16-Bearing-F208/323446432307

 

Armed with that and the shaft diameter, you should be able to buy a bearing

 

Richard

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This might get you out of trouble temporarily for a top bearing. If you can bust of those bits of rusted bearing bits thay have been forced up, then wind a few coils of greasy rope around the stock and poke it down into the casting. Your stern rope looks about rhe right size. Work a bit of wire into the top bit of the rope and loop the other end of it around one of those dome nuts on deck,  so you can yank it all out again if need be.

Edited by bizzard
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3 hours ago, WotEver said:

What exactly does that grease nipple er, grease?

IIRC, the bearing has a spherical outer race so it can move around in the housing. This allows the axis of the rudder shaft to be off perpendicular to the deck

 

The grease nipple lubricates the outside of the bearing race

 

Richard

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Look on Tony brooks website for how to get the swan neck off.  Conventional wisdom is hitting 3 shades of brick dust out of it with two sledge hammers on either side with the nut loose. Didnt work for me. I used a couple of big metal wedges between the deck and swan neck and big hammer on the nut.  A tip I learned recently was to put a bit of copper   (Flattened bit of copper tube) on the nut or top of the threaded bit and hit that with the big hammer this prevents damage the threaded bit.

 

hopefully the remains of the bearing will come off easily but remove or drill out the grub screws. Clean the shaft above the bearing to help it slide off. Good luck -  I had to get a serious bearing puller to shift mine. 

 

I took the bits to a local branch of Eriks bearings and they sorted out a replacement. 

 

ETA if the rudder is in the cup I would just try knocking the broken bit back down into the casting as far as you can -? bit of grease will probably be fine for a little while.  I cruised for weeks with one like that until I could get it dismantled and replaced. Didn’t help that my tiller swan neck nut was 38mm which you don’t find in the average socket set....

Edited by jonathanA
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Thanks for tips, but there is a boat yard about 4 hours cruise away, I will ring them to get me a bearing and possibly get them to fit it. Thanks again for all the help.

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3 hours ago, RLWP said:

IIRC, the bearing has a spherical outer race so it can move around in the housing. This allows the axis of the rudder shaft to be off perpendicular to the deck

 

The grease nipple lubricates the outside of the bearing race

 

Richard

Oh I see, thank you :)

 

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