Jump to content
Strawberry Orange Banana Lime Leaf Slate Sky Blueberry Grape Watermelon Chocolate Marble
Strawberry Orange Banana Lime Leaf Slate Sky Blueberry Grape Watermelon Chocolate Marble
Sign in to follow this  
Johny London

Using "Gunk"

Featured Posts

Bought a tin of gunk, been cleaning the bilge and engine. Sanded paint on counters etc, swept up(needs a bit of rust treatment still) and used the gunk to wipe everything down. Just wondering if it has left a film of oil or whether it produces a nicely degreased surface to paint on. Will be using an oil based grey undercoat and where bare metal a red oxide (not opened yet so unsure what base!).

Any thoughts as to whether the paints will adhere well to "de gunked" surfaces?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm not convinced that Gunk completely rinses off so I'd employ a degreaser such as acetone or meths.

 

Also like so many thing in life, eg TV, pubs, ice cream, Toblerone, rock music...  I reckon Gunk isn't as good as it used to be.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Definitely wipe down with some kind of pre-paint solvent. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ok thanks - I've a choice of meths or the paint thinners I use with my exterior boat paint (Xylene). I thought as much so it's a good job I didn't go ahead and just paint. I'll get the fertan on the bare bits in the meantime, will need a couple goes anyway.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Gunk is a brew of the devil.For normal degreasing Hypaclean or Jizer is much better

For degreasing prior to painting I suggest you use panel wipe available from any vehicle refurbishment outlet.

 

Frank

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, Jen-in-Wellies said:

Be careful using solvents in a confined space like an engine room, or gas locker. Can do weird things to your head.

 

Especially Xylene - nasty stuff.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

When I was at school the science master whose sailing boat we use to maintain in the winter had us cleaning paint brushes with Carbon tetrachloride, I dont think it had many lasting effects on me, but you all may be better judges.

  • Greenie 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, Machpoint005 said:

 

Especially Xylene - nasty stuff.

Yes I got high off Hemple thinners 17 when I was painting the inside of my water tank. First coats were "standard" epoxy and then overcoated with the water potable epoxy.

 

15 hours ago, Johny London said:

Ok thanks - I've a choice of meths or the paint thinners I use with my exterior boat paint (Xylene). I thought as much so it's a good job I didn't go ahead and just paint. I'll get the fertan on the bare bits in the meantime, will need a couple goes anyway.

 

Use the thinners recommend for your paint to degrease.

1 hour ago, Machpoint005 said:

 

Especially Xylene - nasty stuff.

Yes I got high off Hemple thinners 17 when I was painting the inside of my water tank. First coats were "standard" epoxy and then overcoated with the water potable epoxy.

 

15 hours ago, Johny London said:

Ok thanks - I've a choice of meths or the paint thinners I use with my exterior boat paint (Xylene). I thought as much so it's a good job I didn't go ahead and just paint. I'll get the fertan on the bare bits in the meantime, will need a couple goes anyway.

 

Use the thinners recommend for your paint to degrease rather than meths. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If I use Xylene thinners, it may quite quickly take the paint right off - as does petrol (don't ask!). At least going by the paint I have done on the rest of the boat. The engine bay was all ready painted so I don't know the type, I would assume some sort of cellulose/ Xylene car type paint as it was sprayed on by the looks of it - pity they put it straight over the storage paint and it's all come off, on the counters at least. The permanently submerged parts fared a lot better than the "just condensation damp" parts!

Looks like I wasted my time and money with the old Gunk - I think it was an attack of nostalgia after seeing a tin on someone else's boat a while back, and it stuck in my mind. I also bought some "Brut" spray the same day!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, Johny London said:

I also bought some "Brut" spray the same day!

Did you take the time to go to the barber shop for a mullet after you bought your flowery shirt?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
3 hours ago, ditchcrawler said:

When I was at school the science master whose sailing boat we use to maintain in the winter had us cleaning paint brushes with Carbon tetrachloride, I dont think it had many lasting effects on me, but you all may be better judges.

 

Lasting effects...?

 

Well the chances of a Ramones reunion are pretty remote.. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, Johny London said:

I also bought some "Brut" spray the same day!

Be careful with Brut, it can send women sex mad, needs to be applied liberally, never worked for me but I've been assured its because I didn't apply enough of it.  

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
26 minutes ago, WotEver said:

Did you take the time to go to the barber shop for a mullet after you bought your flowery shirt?

No but I'm in the market for a soap on a rope!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, Johny London said:

No but I'm in the market for a soap on a rope!

I have one!  Christmas present from a nephew who obviously hates me. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Went really well with the Xylene - should have just used that in the first place, and it's kinda keyed the paint (would eventually remove it!). Fertan applied as necessary. All done now - just floated out of the engine bay for a bit of air!

I'm a bit concerned about using the red oxide I got in Wilko - opened it and it seems to be oil based so might get some proper stuff in the car shop. Don't want it peeling off in a few years.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Er oil based paint is the proper stuff.

Phil

18 minutes ago, Johny London said:

Went really well with the Xylene - should have just used that in the first place, and it's kinda keyed the paint (would eventually remove it!). Fertan applied as necessary. All done now - just floated out of the engine bay for a bit of air!

I'm a bit concerned about using the red oxide I got in Wilko - opened it and it seems to be oil based so might get some proper stuff in the car shop. Don't want it peeling off in a few years.

Er oil based paint is the proper stuff

Phil

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

No - oil based paint is rubbish - it stinks, takes an age to dry and eventually peels and flakes. When was the last time you saw a car with peeling paint?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
3 hours ago, Johny London said:

No - oil based paint is rubbish - it stinks, takes an age to dry and eventually peels and flakes. When was the last time you saw a car with peeling paint?

!968, Ford Silver Fox and Blue Mink and they were water based primers at the time.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 04/07/2019 at 19:40, Neil2 said:

I'm not convinced that Gunk completely rinses off so I'd employ a degreaser such as acetone or meths.

 

Also like so many thing in life, eg TV, pubs, ice cream, Toblerone, rock music...  I reckon Gunk isn't as good as it used to be.

Agree,I used to clean my motorbike engine with it and the pong from a hot engine was wonderful. 

Gunk doesn't smell like that anymore, something has changed.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
16 minutes ago, Mad Harold said:

Agree,I used to clean my motorbike engine with it and the pong from a hot engine was wonderful. 

Gunk doesn't smell like that anymore, something has changed.

How about Jizzer. When I was at work we changed to Citraclean because it was "greener"

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Just wondering whether I should clean off the fertan first (with either water or meths?) or just paint over. I think it says you can paint over. Not sure what I did in the past but this is such a large area can't afford to mess up!

 

Edit to add:

Directions for Use

1)    Remove loose rust and grease as described above.
2)    Dampen the metal surface. (don’t do this if just ‘dotting’ stonechips on car bodywork)
.
3)      If applying by brush or sponge pour sufficient Fertan® into a suitable clean container.
4)    Apply liberally by brush or sponge or airless spray. 
        All rusted areas will turn black over the next 1 - 24 hours (moisture & temp dependent).

 5)    In dry conditions the surface should be dampened with a light water mist after two hours to 
        facilitate the reaction and maximise effectiveness
6)    If any rust has not converted apply more Fertan® at any time.
        The reaction can continue  for up 48 hours.  This provides the maximum performance.  
7)    At the end of this time wipe down or wash surface with low pressure water (ie not pressure wash) to
        remove the loose black dust that will be present (rust too loose to bond). This will also rinse off any
        unused (brown) Fertan lying on the metal.  On large exterior structures rain will do this.
? When the surface is dry paint/coat as normal.
9)    Brushes, sponges and spray equipment should be cleaned with water, preferably within a few hours.

Edited by Johny London

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You are supposed to wash off Fertan with water when it has done its stuff. One of the reasons why many prefer Vactan which doesn't need rinsing.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
36 minutes ago, Johny London said:

At the end of this time wipe down or wash surface with low pressure water <snip> When the surface is dry...

So yes, as Phil posts, having got rid of all the rust you’re supposed to make it wet again. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.