Jump to content
Strawberry Orange Banana Lime Leaf Slate Sky Blueberry Grape Watermelon Chocolate Marble
Strawberry Orange Banana Lime Leaf Slate Sky Blueberry Grape Watermelon Chocolate Marble
Sign in to follow this  
jenevers

fuel pump lubrication point

Featured Posts

On the top half of the fuel injection pump for the 4LW you will see a pair of fuel cotrol blocks each having 2 connections at the top to the injectors.  These are connected by a rod in the middle so these two units work together.  There should be a Lucas plaque showing the pump details on this and at the same level you should see a 2BA set screw on each of these two blocks.  That is were the oil goes.

 

Sorry no photo at the moment.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
47 minutes ago, PeterG said:

On the top half of the fuel injection pump for the 4LW you will see a pair of fuel cotrol blocks each having 2 connections at the top to the injectors.  These are connected by a rod in the middle so these two units work together.  There should be a Lucas plaque showing the pump details on this and at the same level you should see a 2BA set screw on each of these two blocks.  That is were the oil goes.

 

Sorry no photo at the moment.

Do you mean the cheese head screw between levers 2 & 3? To the immediate left of the top corner of the label?31FC00CF-DBE0-44E4-BE08-5A4F556C9852.jpeg.472db7f975e61f62a50630885a21ec98.jpeg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yes that is right.  I did not know the 4LW was a single block of 4 thought it was split like the cylinders into 2s and 3s.

 

I would agree 30cc does seem a lot but just checking my manual that is what it states though.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, PeterG said:

Yes that is right.  I did not know the 4LW was a single block of 4 thought it was split like the cylinders into 2s and 3s.

 

I would agree 30cc does seem a lot but just checking my manual that is what it states though.

Great stuff. Thanks. I didn't want to unscrew the wrong screw as I know these pumps are very precisely set up?

Edited by jenevers

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I would leave that one alone that is for the later new fangled governer adaptions that my engine does not have.  Not for filling with any more oil.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
10 minutes ago, PeterG said:

I would leave that one alone that is for the later new fangled governer adaptions that my engine does not have.  Not for filling with any more oil.

OK. I'll give it a miss. Btw 30 cc is 6 teaspoons!!!!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

What I do, not in the manual of course, is every couple of hundred hours put in a couple of squirts from my oil can.  Highly scientific as you can see.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
14 minutes ago, PeterG said:

What I do, not in the manual of course, is every couple of hundred hours put in a couple of squirts from my oil can.  Highly scientific as you can see.

that is my approach too, but I may try some more next time if its supposed to be 30CC!

By the way, Carb Cleaner is good for removing the oil/diesel residue on the pump exterior, but needs good ventilation.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I believe I am right saying the manual recommends the 30cc every thousand hours, so a couple of squirts every couple of hundrede should be ample.  Perhaps if you cannot say when last time would be good to start with more?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
10 minutes ago, PeterG said:

I would leave that one alone that is for the later new fangled governer adaptions that my engine does not have.  Not for filling with any more oil.

OK. I'll give it a miss. Btw 30 cc is 6 teaspoons!!!!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

What new fangled governor adaptations?....electronic injection?........monumental piffle..........the governor rack,rack bushings,geared quadrants ,and entire fuel controll mechanism is there ..........no need to measure,simply squirt in some oil ,clean oil of course,with an oil can......without oil ,the mechanism will rely on thin diesel leakage for lubrication,which may have been marginal when diesel was dark brown with heavy fractions,but the thin kerosine like diesel today lubricates nothing.....Oil the mechanism before governor action becomes jerky ,and the parts wear out.,and oil it frequently.......and while you are at it,oil all the pins and linkages in the governor.....And put some oil in the opposite end where the overfuel mechanism is.......dont let it go rusty.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

What I was talking about is the cold start fuel override.

 

Yes I agree about keeping the linkages oiled but that is just expected tlc for your Gardner.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

No problem at all it is great to meet with other people that enjoy the practical side of looking after great engines.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.