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Beta 43 engine temperature does not reach normal operating temperature. 

I expect temperature to be approximately 80 degrees Centigrade, Thermostat Temperature, but only achieves 60 degrees Centigrade. 

Compared Temperature Sensor resistance, given in Beta Marine Manual, and found them to approximate - both min and max. 

Connected Thermal Couple to confirm Temperature Gauge reading. 

I cannot remember Temperature Gauge ever reading anything approximating 80 degrees. 

If it was a car I'd suspect a faulty Engine thermostat, or no thermostat fitted but, having large skin tanks, I'm unsure how these would affect engine temperature. 

I'd be grateful for any advice or guidance as what to expect. 

 

Regards and Thanks. 

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Size of skin tanks is mainly irrelevant, its the thermostat that controls the temperature.

 

The only other possibility is the circuit through the calorifier losing heat constantly, is it correctly plumbed? Could it be piped into the skin tanks by mistake?

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Where is your sensor located? I put a temp gauge  in and put the sensor in the top of what I think is the 'stat housing (removed a blanking plug) Temp only ever gets to 60 unless something unusual happens, Calorifier gets nice and hot, engine feels hot so I've stopped worrying, always assumed it was mismatched sender or my rubbish wiring.

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Same on my Beta 43. When I was fitting out, the boat was out of the water, I could run the engine for hours and it never made 65 on the gauge. I've changed the thermostat twice, still the same. I have also stopped worrying.

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Direct raw water cooled marine engines will have a low temperature thermostat fitted to minimise scale/salt deposits within the engine. These are typically around 60 to 65 C.

 

Fresh water cooled boats may (or may not) have a similar thermostat fitted to avoid the dangers of scalding from the calorifier supplied hot water, especially as the mariniser can not guarantee the boat fitter will also fit a thermostatic mixing valve.

 

Many years of this practice seem to indicate there is no significant reduction in engine life or fuel economy.

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After our 'make do' repair to the skin tank we have cruised for 2+ hours. Watching the temperature like a hawk, the gauge showed a little over 80 degrees. Is this acceptable.

 

I was not aware you can get thermostats that regulate to differing temperatures. 

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1 hour ago, Nightwatch said:

After our 'make do' repair to the skin tank we have cruised for 2+ hours. Watching the temperature like a hawk, the gauge showed a little over 80 degrees. Is this acceptable.

 

I was not aware you can get thermostats that regulate to differing temperatures. 

It's fine.  The Beta 43 manual states in the data pages that the coolant may be between 85 and 95 degrees so don't take the cap off when it's hot. 

 

As @Tony Brooks points out above many engine marinisers deliberately put a thermostat rated lower than this for various reasons.  

 

If your engine isn't overheating, don't worry about it, just remember that if you are running on plain water and with the pressure cap off it's more likely to boil on longer runs, but you can live with that for a couple of weeks until you get your tank fixed properly.

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9 minutes ago, TheBiscuits said:

It's fine.  The Beta 43 manual states in the data pages that the coolant may be between 85 and 95 degrees so don't take the cap off when it's hot. 

 

As @Tony Brooks points out above many engine marinisers deliberately put a thermostat rated lower than this for various reasons.

Beta are the mariniser

 

 

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As other Beta 43 owners have said before, mine is on the standard thermostat and also only gets into the 60's and then sits there quite steadily whether pootling on the canal or working harder on a river.  I've added a small towel radiator tee'd off the calorifier return and it's made not a blind bit of difference to the engine running temperature.  Just note where your gauge usually sits, take that as your normal and relax unless it starts pointing somewhere else. :)

 

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13 minutes ago, TheBiscuits said:

It's fine.  The Beta 43 manual states in the data pages that the coolant may be between 85 and 95 degrees so don't take the cap off when it's hot. 

 

As @Tony Brooks points out above many engine marinisers deliberately put a thermostat rated lower than this for various reasons.  

 

If your engine isn't overheating, don't worry about it, just remember that if you are running on plain water and with the pressure cap off it's more likely to boil on longer runs, but you can live with that for a couple of weeks until you get your tank fixed properly.

As it wasn't leaking at all before leaving, leaving the cap off wasn't discussed, so the two hour trip was 'pressurised',  all in all, not a bad result for a temporary hole bunging exercise.

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4 minutes ago, Nightwatch said:

As it wasn't leaking at all before leaving, leaving the cap off wasn't discussed, so the two hour trip was 'pressurised',  all in all, not a bad result for a temporary hole bunging exercise.

We need to get you a poster made:  "Damage Control saved HMS Nightwatch" (remember those?) :D

 

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9 minutes ago, RLWP said:

Beta are the mariniser

Yes, I know. 

 

What I am saying is that different marinisers do different things to different engines for different reasons.

 

The manual for the Beta 43 is here:

https://issuu.com/betamarine/docs/om-221-20032_kc_rev-05_-_0519?e=15614309/70037444

 

and page 6 section F states:

 

An engine running under load will have a closed circuit fresh water temperature of 85° to 95°C. The pressure cap on the top of the heat exchanger must not be removed when the engine is running.

 

Page 30 (Keel cooled engines) states:

 

The engine thermostat starts to open at 71°C, as a consequence, the guide running temperature should be between 71 > 85°C.

 

There is also the thought that on secondhand engines you never can tell what specification parts have been replaced by previous owners - but I'm fairly sure that's not news to you!

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2 hours ago, TheBiscuits said:

There is also the thought that on secondhand engines you never can tell what specification parts have been replaced by previous owners - but I'm fairly sure that's not news to you!

No thermostat is usually a fair indication of 'trouble'

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17 hours ago, cuthound said:

Personally I would make sure that there is sufficient antifreeze in @Nightwatch cooling system to prevent internal corrosion of the engine.

In a fortnight or so Nightwatch will have a good amount of anti freeze in. No point putting any in at present. 

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16 hours ago, Sea Dog said:

Fixed that for you. ;)

 

You have to take somethings on trust unless you are paranoid. 

 

Actually it agreed witn my infra red thermometer when I last changed the antifreeze and was bleeding the system. Although of course that could be reading incorrectly too!

  • Greenie 1
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11 hours ago, pearley said:

You have to take somethings on trust unless you are paranoid. 

 

Actually it agreed witn my infra red thermometer when I last changed the antifreeze and was bleeding the system. Although of course that could be reading incorrectly too!

My point being that such gauges aren't calibrated, so they're best used simply by identifying where the pointer usually sits when all is well.  If it's used by many different people, a  'green zone' marked on the gauge glass makes it easy for anyone to spot any departures from the norm. 

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