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3 minutes ago, bizzard said:

:) It does work probably better than Radweld which can also clog things up. Read my post 74 on how to prevent that. 

Yes, read that. I still wondered if, once the coolant started circulating all the way round the system, there might still be bits of egg that hadn't already got stuck somewhere which might then move to somewhere undesirable.

 

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1 minute ago, Lily Rose said:

Yes, read that. I still wondered if, once the coolant started circulating all the way round the system, there might still be bits of egg that hadn't already got stuck somewhere which might then move to somewhere undesirable.

 

Might but I doubt it. Once its coated the inside and heated it'll stick like anything.

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Holts used to make stuff called Wonderweld, just a stronger and thicker version of Radweld I expect. It was for sealing cracked blocks and worked on small cracks or leaking core plugs. The operation was to remove thermostat and housing and pour the stuff directly into the orifice, replace housing without the thermostat and run for a while to get hot and to seal. Drain off, replace thermostat and fill with fresh water or coolant.

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1 minute ago, bizzard said:

Holts used to make stuff called Wonderweld, just a stronger and thicker version of Radweld I expect. It was for sealing cracked blocks and worked on small cracks or leaking core plugs. The operation was to remove thermostat and housing and pour the stuff directly into the orifice, replace housing without the thermostat and run for a while to get hot and to seal. Drain off, replace thermostat and fill with fresh water or coolant.

There used to be a solid sealant can't recall the name, but if you will forgive me, it looked like a piece of dog excrement (perhaps it was.) I punctured the rad on a Morris van many years ago and bunged one of these in. It held for 12 months and was still working when I sold the van on.

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4 minutes ago, catweasel said:

There used to be a solid sealant can't recall the name, but if you will forgive me, it looked like a piece of dog excrement (perhaps it was.) I punctured the rad on a Morris van many years ago and bunged one of these in. It held for 12 months and was still working when I sold the van on.

Probably something like Milliput poxy putty which is very good. GPO telephones used something like it too for sealing underground joints.

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8 minutes ago, bizzard said:

Probably something like Milliput poxy putty which is very good. GPO telephones used something like it too for sealing underground joints.

It was like this but a longer piece. I just dropped it through the radiator neck and drove away. It sealed in no time.

71KUvWyw0aL._SL1434_.jpg

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1 minute ago, catweasel said:

It was like this but a longer piece. I just dropped it through the radiator neck and drove away. It sealed in no time.

71KUvWyw0aL._SL1434_.jpg

Ah yes I remember that, it was very popular. Never used it though, It was far more profitable to do the job properly unless the customer was very poor.

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4 hours ago, bizzard said:

Holts used to make stuff called Wonderweld, just a stronger and thicker version of Radweld I expect. It was for sealing cracked blocks and worked on small cracks or leaking core plugs. The operation was to remove thermostat and housing and pour the stuff directly into the orifice, replace housing without the thermostat and run for a while to get hot and to seal. Drain off, replace thermostat and fill with fresh water or coolant.

I remember using mustard back in the early 60's to cure leaky rads. Never had much success with Radweld but K Seal is excellent.

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  • 3 weeks later...

An update of an update.

 

Coolant has decided to get out of the skintank again. It was never completely sealed, a few dribbles here and there. But just done a bit of River and I have a repeat problem.

 

Called a local motor factors and had a good discussion with the chap on the phone about K Seal. He didn't convince me it'll work in a skin tank. So back to the drawing board. 

 

The chap who did the temporary repair covered everything, including the two pack epoxy liquid metal stuff, in a mastic type of product that he called, excuse the language, sticks like sh1t. Anyone know if there's another mastic product that would stick like something else like sh1t?

We are now adjacent to Sawley Marina. So if we really put in a concerted effort could be at our proposed destination in a little over a day. As I top up the header tank the bilge recieves more water so it'll be a fair task negotiating ten plus locks and eleven miles topping up the skin tank. I really need to stem the flow.

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4 minutes ago, Nightwatch said:

An update of an update.

 

Coolant has decided to get out of the skintank again. It was never completely sealed, a few dribbles here and there. But just done a bit of River and I have a repeat problem.

 

Called a local motor factors and had a good discussion with the chap on the phone about K Seal. He didn't convince me it'll work in a skin tank. So back to the drawing board. 

 

The chap who did the temporary repair covered everything, including the two pack epoxy liquid metal stuff, in a mastic type of product that he called, excuse the language, sticks like sh1t. Anyone know if there's another mastic product that would stick like something else like sh1t?

We are now adjacent to Sawley Marina. So if we really put in a concerted effort could be at our proposed destination in a little over a day. As I top up the header tank the bilge recieves more water so it'll be a fair task negotiating ten plus locks and eleven miles topping up the skin tank. I really need to stem the flow.

I have suggested this previously, I reckon it would work if you run with the pressure cap removed.

You could have it on 'next day' delivery.

https://www.force4.co.uk/force-4-stay-afloat-emergency-sealant-0-4kg.html#.WWCJKdHXv4g

 

Look at the video (around the 1 minute mark would be a similar application ?)

 

 

Edited by Alan de Enfield
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18 minutes ago, Alan de Enfield said:

I have suggested this previously, I reckon it would work if you run with the pressure cap removed.

You could have it on 'next day' delivery.

https://www.force4.co.uk/force-4-stay-afloat-emergency-sealant-0-4kg.html#.WWCJKdHXv4g

 

Look at the video (around the 1 minute mark would be a similar application ?)

 

 

Thanks for that Alan. That product looks the dogs proverbials. My one and only concern would be running without the pressure cap in place. What I have to do, I think, is get off the existing mastic stuff, no matter what it's called, and reapply some more liquid metal. Reapply mastic if needs be. But firstly get the area dry. To achieve that I have to use the wet vac in suck and blow mode. This will drain the batteries in no time. So I'm about to pop across to the marina to see if I can get a berth for a couple of days with power. They may even stock Stay Afloat. Lots of fibre boats here.  I don't want to start digging too much it may make matters worse. 

The joys of boating. We only came along the river to get a loo pumpout. 

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21 minutes ago, Nightwatch said:

My one and only concern would be running without the pressure cap in place. 

You could always try running with the cap in place - the worst that would happen is that it would start to weep again.

 

I'd take out the thermostat and run without the pressure cap - keep an eye on the water levels the engine temperatures and making sure the 'snot' is not weeping.

You only have one bit of River and it is going downstream so the loads on the engine will not be great. (If I remember your are heading for LMBY ?)

Edited by Alan de Enfield
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20 minutes ago, Nightwatch said:

Thanks for that Alan. That product looks the dogs proverbials. My one and only concern would be running without the pressure cap in place. What I have to do, I think, is get off the existing mastic stuff, no matter what it's called, and reapply some more liquid metal. Reapply mastic if needs be. But firstly get the area dry. To achieve that I have to use the wet vac in suck and blow mode. This will drain the batteries in no time. So I'm about to pop across to the marina to see if I can get a berth for a couple of days with power. They may even stock Stay Afloat. Lots of fibre boats here.  I don't want to start digging too much it may make matters worse. 

The joys of boating. We only came along the river to get a loo pumpout. 

 

I think I have already told you this. There will be no problem with running unpressurised as long as you do not make the engine work too hard and even then if it had a decent sized skin that there would still be no problem. Even less chance of a problem if you have a temperature gage and/or keep an eye on the filler in case of localised boiling. Then you just throttle back. Loads of engines that were designed to run pressurised run without on the canals - all Calutt's hire boats do or did for one lot.

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As i said previously having tried plastic padding leak repair etc. I sealed mine with evo stick metal putty and that held all the way down the S&W from Tixall wide and had to be ground off before a permanent welded repair could be made .... 

 

If you need to get anywhere to pick anything up I am only down the road in Willington and will happily drive over.

 

Rick

Edited by dccruiser
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2 hours ago, Tony Brooks said:

 

I think I have already told you this. There will be no problem with running unpressurised as long as you do not make the engine work too hard and even then if it had a decent sized skin that there would still be no problem. Even less chance of a problem if you have a temperature gage and/or keep an eye on the filler in case of localised boiling. Then you just throttle back. Loads of engines that were designed to run pressurised run without on the canals - all Calutt's hire boats do or did for one lot.

And a lot less risk of damage than running with no water in the system, once the level drops below the pump its not doing anything so you dont need to loss that much

Edited by ditchcrawler
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So, is the general consensus to use Stay Afloat, top up, run engine without he pressure cap, watching the levels and temperature and all will be fine? Well, at this state I gave to thank everyone who has reminded me of what they think I ought to be. It is all very much appreciated.

what I am doing at present is, we have taken a berth at Sawley with power. We have sucked out as much water as we can at present from the skin take, with the purpose of allowing it to dry. I have bought a tin of liquid metal. We have removed the large mass of silicon from over the previously applied epoxy which seems to be mainly intact. Going to leave in situ. Going to slap on the liquid metal when dry. Allow to go off. Might? but not sure, smother with silicon. Allowto go off. (May not bother with silicon). Top up skintank. Will then set off for Langley Mill. Without the pressure cap as strongly advised. And see what happens. Travelled three hundred yards without pressure cap this morning and, and it maybe because there was a lack of coolant, temperature gauge shot up to 100 plus degrees. 

2 hours ago, Alan de Enfield said:

You could always try running with the cap in place - the worst that would happen is that it would start to weep again.

 

I'd take out the thermostat and run without the pressure cap - keep an eye on the water levels the engine temperatures and making sure the 'snot' is not weeping.

You only have one bit of River and it is going downstream so the loads on the engine will not be great. (If I remember your are heading for LMBY ?)

 

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3 minutes ago, Nightwatch said:

So, is the general consensus to use Stay Afloat, top up, run engine without he pressure cap, watching the levels and temperature and all will be fine? Well, at this state I gave to thank everyone who has reminded me of what they think I ought to be. It is all very much appreciated.

what I am doing at present is, we have taken a berth at Sawley with power. We have sucked out as much water as we can at present from the skin take, with the purpose of allowing it to dry. I have bought a tin of liquid metal. We have removed the large mass of silicon from over the previously applied epoxy which seems to be mainly intact. Going to leave in situ. Going to slap on the liquid metal when dry. Allow to go off. Might? but not sure, smother with silicon. Allowto go off. (May not bother with silicon). Top up skintank. Will then set off for Langley Mill. Without the pressure cap as strongly advised. And see what happens. Travelled three hundred yards without pressure cap this morning and, and it maybe because there was a lack of coolant, temperature gauge shot up to 100 plus degrees. 

 

I would have used the evo stick metal putty, i also tried the liquid metal and found the water once it got warm just pushed out from behind it :) 

Rick

 

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4 minutes ago, bizzard said:

Milliput is a two part epoxy putty which you knead equal parts together. Very powerful.

I used this which works in the same way and having used it on a porous skin tank can highly recommend it as i know for a fact it does the job!

Evo-stik Hard & Fast Metal Epoxy Putty

 

Rick

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4 minutes ago, bizzard said:

Milliput is a two part epoxy putty which you knead equal parts together. Very powerful.

+1 for milliput - if it’s still the same formula as 30 odd years ago! Managed to bodge a thermostat housing with it when the corner broke off - I was only trying to see if the ‘stat was broke.. ? The “bodge” must have lasted about 3 weeks and still going strong when I replaced it! 

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On 25/06/2019 at 12:58, Flyboy said:

Also if you have a calorifier heated from the engine you can run off some hot water to reduce the temperature a bit if overheating.  Make sure you fill your water tank fully before travelling.

 

I tried that once. Didn't make a blind bit of difference. Once the calorifier is hot it's hot and then you can't get rid of the hot water quick enough.

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