PRM 150 Gearbox Oil

[bmp]

Afternoon everyone.

 

Just preparing to change the oil in my gearbox. 

 

It is a PRM150 and has done about 600 hours. I have read on here to do it about every 750 hours. I am planning to do an engine oil change this weekend and thought I may as well do the gearbox as well. ( for info .... Engine is a Canaline 42)

 

My question is about which oil to use in the gearbox.

 

I have read quite a few previous topics on this and there are conflicting posts and I am not sure which is correct.  

 

Some people have said to just use the same oil as the engine  -  "Engine Oil API CC 10w/40"

 

and others have said to use ...  mineral 15W40 oil (not synthetic).

 

I have got a manual for the engine so no issues with that, and I know how to do the oil change for the gearbox - just need some guidance on the type of oil to use.

 

Thanks in advance for any help.

 

BMP

 

 

[RLWP]

Just use whatever engine oil you have

 

You will get a lot more oil out if you take out the drain plug than by sticking a suction tube down the dipstick hole

 

Richard

[bmp]

11 minutes ago, RLWP said:

Just use whatever engine oil you have

 

You will get a lot more oil out if you take out the drain plug than by sticking a suction tube down the dipstick hole

 

Richard

Hi Richard

 

Thanks. Will be dropping it out of the drain plug - hopefully. 

 

 

[Guest]

Says on the literature that came with mine and on the website that PRM 150 should use mineral engine oil, not semi or synth.  I emailed them about this and they replied that it should only be mineral oil.  I use Comma 15/40 or similar mineral oil.

[bmp]

3 minutes ago, catweasel said:

Says on the literature that came with mine and on the website that PRM 150 should use mineral engine oil, not semi or synth.  I emailed them about this and they replied that it should only be mineral oil.  I use Comma 15/40 or similar mineral oil.

Thanks..

 

The engine oil I have is from Engine Plus and it is ...

"Multigrade Diesel engine Oil API CC SAE 10W/40". -  I cant see anywhere if that is mineral oil or not. I know it is not 15/40

 

Richard  (and others) have said to use the same as the engine oil.  

 

I know I am being a bit thick here, but I really dont want to use the wrong stuff and damage the gearbox. 

 

 

 

[cuthound]

CC spec oil is an old specification for diesel lubricating oil (latest spec is CH), so only used for lightly stressed engines and very unlikely to be semi or fully synthetic (or to have many detergents in it).

[hider]

Cheapest engine oil, it will be all mineral. As temperature is not a big factor on a lightly stressed narrowboat with oil cooler, 10w/40 or 15w/40 is fine, even 20w/50 is usable.

Should be changed when you do the engine, 750 hours sounds a lot, what does the book say?

[bmp]

8 minutes ago, hider said:

Cheapest engine oil, it will be all mineral. As temperature is not a big factor on a lightly stressed narrowboat with oil cooler, 10w/40 or 15w/40 is fine, even 20w/50 is usable.

Should be changed when you do the engine, 750 hours sounds a lot, what does the book say?

Thanks for that . I feel better just using the engine oil now.

I have the engine manual and a copy of a sheet out of the gearbox manual. It says the bit about mineral oil 15/40 and every 750 hours.  

I will do it each time I change the engine oil I think - especially if I am using the same oil anyway.

Thanks for your help.

 

 

[Tacet]

2 hours ago, RLWP said:

Just use whatever engine oil you have

I have been trying to think of the most unsuitable engine oil and can only come up with two-stroke oil and Castrol R.

 

Can anyone do better? Or worse?

 

 

[bmp]

1 minute ago, Tacet said:

I have been trying to think of the most unsuitable engine oil and can only come up with two-stroke oil and Castrol R.

 

Can anyone do better? Or worse?

 

 

Haha - no dont !!! 

[cuthound]

5 minutes ago, bmp said:

Thanks for that . I feel better just using the engine oil now.

I have the engine manual and a copy of a sheet out of the gearbox manual. It says the bit about mineral oil 15/40 and every 750 hours.  

I will do it each time I change the engine oil I think - especially if I am using the same oil anyway.

Thanks for your help.

 

 

 

My PRM manual says every year or 750 hours, whichever comes first. I change my annually at the same time as the engine oil

Edited June 13, 2019 by cuthound
Clarification

[hider]

2 minutes ago, cuthound said:

 

My PRM manual says every year orv750 hours, whichever comes first.

Fine,never read a PRM150 manual, carry on. Extra on a leap year?

[bmp]

16 minutes ago, cuthound said:

 

My PRM manual says every year or 750 hours, whichever comes first. I change my annually at the same time as the engine oil

sounds like a good plan to me.

[bmp]

25 minutes ago, cuthound said:

 

My PRM manual says every year or 750 hours, whichever comes first. I change my annually at the same time as the engine oil

I meant to ask ....  Do you use the same oil as the engine oil?

[cuthound]

Yes, I have a Beta 43 & PRM 150 and use Morris Golden Film 10w40 API CC in both.

 

https://www.marinesuperstore.com/engine-bay/engine-oil-additives/morris-golden-film-sae-oil?utm_source=google_shopping&utm_medium=pcn&utm_term=99436797&utm_campaign=MSS&gclid=Cj0KCQjw6IfoBRCiARIsAF6q06twjcL37Zrw4fl-zAXm5wIs986Jao734RaigJGGtPKqvpD4DHxw6NAaArciEALw_wcB

[Ray T]

May help?

 

PRM-Newage-OwnersHandbook.pdf

[RLWP]

46 minutes ago, Tacet said:

I have been trying to think of the most unsuitable engine oil and can only come up with two-stroke oil and Castrol R.

 

Can anyone do better? Or worse?

 

 

Nice challenge - let me think about it

[bmp]

11 minutes ago, cuthound said:

Yes, I have a Beta 43 & PRM 150 and use Morris Golden Film 10w40 API CC in both.

 

https://www.marinesuperstore.com/engine-bay/engine-oil-additives/morris-golden-film-sae-oil?utm_source=google_shopping&utm_medium=pcn&utm_term=99436797&utm_campaign=MSS&gclid=Cj0KCQjw6IfoBRCiARIsAF6q06twjcL37Zrw4fl-zAXm5wIs986Jao734RaigJGGtPKqvpD4DHxw6NAaArciEALw_wcB

Thanks for that...

 

This is what is recommended in my Canaline manual ....  

https://www.enginesplus.co.uk/product/engine-oil-api-cc-10w-40-5-litres/

 

3 minutes ago, Ray T said:

May help?

 

PRM-Newage-OwnersHandbook.pdf 611.43 kB · 0 downloads

Thanks.  

[jonathanA]

1 hour ago, Tacet said:

I have been trying to think of the most unsuitable engine oil and can only come up with two-stroke oil and Castrol R.

 

Can anyone do better? Or worse?

 

 

EP90 gear oil ? 

[RLWP]

4 minutes ago, jonathanA said:

EP90 gear oil ? 

I think that's the whole point of the 'put engine oil in' advice. I.e. put in engine oil, not gear oil or ATF

 

Richard

[TheBiscuits]

Sunflower oil?  Olive oil?

 

Obviously the very worst would be no oil!

[RLWP]

Just now, TheBiscuits said:

Sunflower oil?  Olive oil?

 

Obviously the very worst would be no oil!

You use those as engine oil?

 

1 hour ago, Tacet said:

I have been trying to think of the most unsuitable engine oil and can only come up with two-stroke oil and Castrol R.

 

Can anyone do better? Or worse?

 

 

 

[jonathanA]

Lavender oil

 

might smell nice while it seized up ...

 

@rlwp you might be missing the joke ?

[TheBiscuits]

14 minutes ago, RLWP said:

You use those as engine oil?

Not in my engine! There are youtube clips of people who have tried it.  It kind of works for a short period then bad things happen.

[Ex Brummie]

Drained my PRM 150 today and the oil was straw coloured/ dirty. Refilled with new Morriss' 20/50, and had the usual problem of identifying the level. Closed up and ran for a while, and then checked the level again. This time, the level showed up and was 'milky' and also high. I drew some out with the vacuum pump, still milky, and checked the level again, this time OK. The 'milky' oil I had removed had by this time, reverted to normal oil and  clear. I am hoping that it was just aeration from being pumped round the box.

it does pass through an oil cooler in the Jabsco raw water circuit, but there was no sign of water in the old oil, or in the small amount that had settled in the vacuum pump. It is the first time I have ever checked the oil level immediately after running the engine, but maybe someone else has with the same result. I'll obviously check before next starting the engine.