Jump to content

Will checkerplate work?


adorabelle63

Featured Posts

hello again lol

my engine hatch (cruiser stern) is made up of three sections of wisey board and this works fine in the summer but once winter sets in I think it must expand and I have to take a chisel to it to get a section raised....

I wondered if replacing it with checker plate would solve this problem? I have set in ring pulls to fit to each section and the whole deck is covered with rubber matting so I feel that the noise (i.e rattling) that the local lads keep threatening will happen shouldn’t be a problem- what do you guys think?

 Thanks 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have aluminium chequer plate on mine, 2 sections, large section over the engine, hinged at front with gas struts, small section over the weed hatch, stern gear etc, hinged at the back. Boat came like that when I bought it 13 years ago and it has been fine. The only thing I did was to add some 6mm x 25mm neoprene sponge rubber strips on the underside where it sits on the channels so I never get any issue with rattling.

 

And when I had the boat painted, I believe a special primer was needed on the aluminium but I have no specific details.

Edited by PeterF
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Aluminium, rather than steel chequer plate. Steel would be very heavy. Metal over the engine hole might get a bit hot under foot. Also might be noisy, so may need to add insulation underneath the plate. Peterf has already mentioned rubber for vibration isolation.

Have you considered just removing a couple of mm off the existing boards so they don't jam when they expand in winter?

 

Jen

  • Greenie 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

25 minutes ago, Jen-in-Wellies said:

 

Have you considered just removing a couple of mm off the existing boards so they don't jam when they expand in winter?

 

isn't it annoying when someone points out the obvious ..................  :rolleyes:

  • Greenie 1
  • Haha 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I did our front locker lids in 18mm ply (which is dimensionally very stable if kept dry) then got a local sheet metal place to make up skins in thin aluminium checker plate with folded/welded edges to keep the water out.

 

.............Dave

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Buffalo board with epoxy on the edges is better than hex grip boards.

Unfortunately the coated hex boards are available in several qualities for truck decking and like most things today it seems only  the lowest quality is generally available though still expensive.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Painted patterned plate is a pain. it can flake and peel all round the raised pattern and after a few years can look like a horrid scabby mess. If what you have is still serviceable then cut a bit off all round and use aluminium (or even cheap plastic angle from your local double glazing suppliers). If your boards are 3/4 thick it might be possible to fix 1" angle so the vertical edge forms a ''drip' into the steel support channels. Fiddly but this will help stop water seeping into the end grain and running under the board to drip onto the machinery below.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 minutes ago, Bee said:

Painted patterned plate is a pain. it can flake and peel all round the raised pattern and after a few years can look like a horrid scabby mess. If what you have is still serviceable then cut a bit off all round and use aluminium (or even cheap plastic angle from your local double glazing suppliers). If your boards are 3/4 thick it might be possible to fix 1" angle so the vertical edge forms a ''drip' into the steel support channels. Fiddly but this will help stop water seeping into the end grain and running under the board to drip onto the machinery below.

Yes, I thought very carefully about this. I thought about powder coating or epoxy, but decided that any paint would failed at the raised tread pattern. In the end I just gave it a quick single coat of BondaPrimer, and redo it every couple of years. The aluminium treads showing through the red oxide background actually looks quite good.

 

............Dave

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks everyone- all posts relevant and read with great interest. Existing boards really rough so rather than trim and edge with angle I have decided to go ahead with checker plate (aluminium) and not paint - it will all be under my rubber matting anyway and I will use weed hatch seal surplus to dampen as well. Job done ( or will be if it ever stops raining lol)

thanks once again

ps I thought about trimming it every time I had to use the chisel lol

  • Greenie 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.