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Galvanic Isolator


Glynn

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Have a look at these:

 

https://www.safeshoremarine.com

 

I've had a 70amp model with status monitor on my boat for the last 14 years. If you're spending more than about 100 quid on a GI you may as well go through whole hog and get an isolation transformer. I think they start at around £250.

 

Edited by blackrose
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On 18/05/2019 at 13:20, blackrose said:

Yes, I thought the Airlink IT was a lot cheaper than that!

It was £180 inc vat when I got mine in 2006 ;)

A sensible person would buy one of these

https://airlinktransformers.com/product/enclosed-isolating-industrial-transformer-wm3602

And re-case it, this is in effect what mine is as it was pre plastic potting.

Edited by Loddon
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4 hours ago, Loddon said:

It was £180 inc vat when I got mine in 2006 ;)

A sensible person would buy one of these

https://airlinktransformers.com/product/enclosed-isolating-industrial-transformer-wm3602

And re-case it, this is in effect what mine is as it was pre plastic potting.

or this if you are going to recase it

 

https://airlinktransformers.com/category/chassis-mounting-toroidal-transformers-standard-range?input_voltage=230&output_voltage=230&va=3000

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10 minutes ago, jonesthenuke said:

Or these which are cased and designed for boats

https://airlinktransformers.com/category/boating-transformers

because it is for boats it is twice the price, it is potted in epoxy so will run hotter and if a component fails unrepairable as everything is encapsulated damhikt

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25 minutes ago, jonesthenuke said:

Or these which are cased and designed for boats

https://airlinktransformers.com/category/boating-transformers

Which brings us back to £356 + VAT

54 minutes ago, Phoenix_V said:

You’d just need to add the thermistor. 

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8 hours ago, jonesthenuke said:

Or these which are cased and designed for boats

https://airlinktransformers.com/category/boating-transformers

Its the same transformer

back in 2006 I contacted airlink and sugested they made a plastic caaed version of the 3.6kva transformer for use on boats. It was only about £30 more than the bare transformer then ;)

 

ETA

I use one like this instead of a thermisstor

http://www.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F263727499334

 

Edited by Loddon
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8 hours ago, WotEver said:

 

You’d just need to add the thermistor. 

https://airlinktransformers.com/product/protection-upgrade-ta512

 

After adding this I noticed Loddon's post and wonder what would be the benefits of his more complicated circuit albeit cheaper!

Edited by Phoenix_V
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  • 3 weeks later...

Just started a search for a gi and got your thread here- none of this makes any sense to me lol I live on my boat on land right now and use the landline electric- I am going into the water at long last at the end of this month so need to get a gi ASAP- I was asking for recommendations as Safesure  do so many options I don’t want to waste money buying an expensive one if the cheaper model will do the job - does anyone know what the difference is between the basic £99 and the next one up at £155 is and does it matter?

thanks for any info

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1 hour ago, hider said:

£56. A transformer is better but much more.

 

I know its not CE and all that but you can make your own for £4 and it works. Its not rocket science, just diodes.

And the maximum fault current and minimum duration this £4 DIY GI will stand before failing is?

 

adorabelle63 - Ignore this topic down this far please.

 

To answer your question.

 

GIs can and do fail when subjected to a fault current so although testing them is not difficult at what appears to be your present level of knowledge I would advise that you need one with some form of monitor built in. That way you can just glance at it on a regular basis to satisfy yourself it is still working properly.

 

The "gold standard" is to look for one built to the ABYC standard. there is as far as I know no EU standard. The ABYC standard should minimise the risk of the device failing if a mains fault develops on your boat. Non-ABYC GIs may work perfectly well but then again they may fail in an instant if a fault develops.

 

If a GI fails it will fail in one of two ways. One way simply removes all the protection but the mains still work. The other way the hull can become live and no fuses will blow. Tha tfailure mode could kill.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited by Tony Brooks
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I wonder why I bothered posting on here. I thought I may be able to help, seems that at every turn I am wrong. I know why my mate Sam bu**ered off now.

I never suggested that with their limited knowledge the OP made their own.

And to answer what current under fault conditions my cheapy alternative £4 GI would stand, at least 45 Amps. As to how long, well the mains would have tripped long before the diodes got even warm.

But just ignore me and I'll stop posting then you could all continue with the inane childish clown postings instead. How utterly boring.

  • Greenie 1
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2 hours ago, hider said:

just ignore me and I'll stop posting

Oh please do :)

2 hours ago, hider said:

I thought I may be able to help, seems that at every turn I am wrong.

Much like ‘your mate’ Sam then. 

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2 hours ago, hider said:

I wonder why I bothered posting on here. I thought I may be able to help, seems that at every turn I am wrong. I know why my mate Sam bu**ered off now.

I never suggested that with their limited knowledge the OP made their own.

And to answer what current under fault conditions my cheapy alternative £4 GI would stand, at least 45 Amps. As to how long, well the mains would have tripped long before the diodes got even warm.

But just ignore me and I'll stop posting then you could all continue with the inane childish clown postings instead. How utterly boring.

 

If my post is the one you consider an "inane child posting" then why did you not answer my question? Could it be because you have no idea. 45 amps is more or less zero amps when compared with the potential fault current that can and flow from the mains if a short  develops. You will be looking at thousands of amps. The time the GI will stand the fault current is also important because there will be a time delay while the RCD decides to trip. Maybe a very short one but still long enough to destroy most readily available diodes at the price you quote - you do not even mention the need for an adequate heat sink.

 

While I accept you probably posted in good faith I do not accept that anyone promoting potentially lethal ideas can be allowed to do so unchallenged. You have to remember not everything you see on the internet is true or well informed.

 

If you do your research and then come back quoting respected sources to show the £4 GI is safe then I will apologise but until then I fear it is you that really should apologise for your outburst.

  • Greenie 4
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1 minute ago, hider said:

Not angry at all, If you can't discuss anything without being personal, too bad .

 

Bye bye Children find a new creche.

Noted that you have a complete absence of any sort of technical response attempting to justify you fallacious position, your response being only childish insults. So Good riddance. No room on here for sulky teenage girls posing as someone with any clue about technical issues.

  • Greenie 1
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Hider, or should I say Sam, instead of getting upset when people correct you, try to learn from it.

 

In a previous thread on GI's I explained why a short circuit can potentially allow up to 4600 amps to flow.

 

Read it and learn.

 

 

  • Greenie 1
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