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rustydiver

Fitting a new drive plate

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1 minute ago, Mike the Boilerman said:

 

Can't help but disagree with this advice. A correctly fitting ring spanner can deliver FAR more torque into a bolt head than an open-ended spanner, no matter how good the fit.

 

A ring spanner will usually break the bolt shaft before rounding the head off 

But that’s what Bod said. Use a single hex ring spanner. That has six sides rather than the 12 points that a double hex spanner has. 

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22 minutes ago, WotEver said:

But that’s what Bod said. Use a single hex ring spanner. That has six sides rather than the 12 points that a double hex spanner has. 

 

Ah I see. Yes I'm having terrible trouble with my reading today!!

 

My apologies Bod.

 

 

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30 minutes ago, Mike the Boilerman said:

 

Can't help but disagree with this advice. A correctly fitting ring spanner can deliver FAR more torque into a bolt head than an open-ended spanner, no matter how good the fit.

 

A ring spanner will usually break the bolt shaft before rounding the head off .

 

 

 

 

Is this what he means ?

 Image result for 6 sided combination spanner

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15 minutes ago, Mike the Boilerman said:

 

Can't help but disagree with this advice. A correctly fitting ring spanner can deliver FAR more torque into a bolt head than an open-ended spanner, no matter how good the fit.

 

A ring spanner will usually break the bolt shaft before rounding the head off .

 

 

 

 

Normal ring spanners have a 12 point ring, each part that contacts the nut/bolt is quite small.

A 6 point ring spanner has twice the contact area, hence less likely to round off the bolt.

Often referred to as Single Hex spanner, or Flank Drive.  Available as combination spanners, ring spanners(both flat or necked) and sockets.

You are quite correct in that a ring spanner is preferable to an open end spanner, but a 6 point ring, will transmit more power, with less chance of damage than a 12 point one.

Flare nut spanners are a hybrid idea, that allows access around pipes, but has much more strength than a normal open end spanner.

 

Bod

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1 minute ago, ditchcrawler said:

Is this what he means ?

 Image result for 6 sided combination spanner

 

I think it is. 

 

I hold that a 12 point ring spanner on a hexagon head will turn it just as effectively as a six point. When a ring spanner is transmitting torque, the bit of metal contact in the centre of each hexagon flat does virtually no work anyway, which is why 12 point ring spanners work just as well. 

 

 

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Only twouble is the OP says that the bolt heads are wery crose to the half coupling and the spanner will have to be gwound off awound its outer edge to get it pwoperly square on the bolt heads. Therefore there might not be enough meat on the Mexican 6 wing spanner to gwind off but pwobably there will be enough meat on the ordinary twaditional 12 point wing spanner.  The bolt heads look in good nick so I'm sure one of those will do fine.    Sowwy about the wisp. 

Edited by bizzard

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Yes it will turn a head just as effectively as a 6 point, the difference is that a 6 point has bigger contact areas, so is less likely to cause damage, or slip off.  Will often work on damaged bolt heads also, at the cost of reduced access, and bigger swing area needed.

 

Bod

( apologies not required, but accepted)

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I know that both types of spanners have the same point to point diameters but the Mexican 6 point ones do seem to have less wall fickness.

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4 minutes ago, Bod said:

the difference is that a 6 point has bigger contact areas, so is less likely to cause damage, or slip off. 

 

Yes I agree the contact area is bigger, but I am saying the position of the additional contact area is such that the additional contact area can transmit approaching zero extra torque, and so is not needed. 

 

Yes whacking a six-point onto an already damaged or rounded hex head bolt is very likely to still turn it!

 

 

 

 

Edited by Mike the Boilerman

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As explained to me many years ago, 12 point, works on the tips of the hex, 6 point works on the side of the tips.  A much thicker area of the head.

 

Bod

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Thanks everyone. 

Ive found a selection of everything spanner wise and my angle grinder to take back up with me when I can make it, I was hoping this weekend but have to go the wrong way down to plymouth on a drone job.

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Yay I got the gearbox and old plate off. 

It still looks in semi decent condition nothing fell apart on it. It Is a r&d 22 B 60. 

F005C256-CF97-473F-9AE4-09B77793601B.jpeg.6e51a73da0f86088950529117727b9bf.jpegED1E8DEE-3DD2-4CAA-83EE-BDBC32844968.jpeg.1f1ac9b7f0f00e92eb970f69feef7f83.jpeg4A6C6613-0B3B-4BBC-B7B7-C3AC4930E515.jpeg.633d97ef46758d429c0832fa8a08bd51.jpeg

These big washers on the back do rattle a bit. 

DC27DE4F-AF75-4D8B-AAEA-8A8A4ACF852D.jpeg.8a6abc431b6e4f3bbfe19a1930fc07d2.jpeg

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1 hour ago, rustydiver said:

It Is a r&d 22 B 60. 

So not the same number as the one you found under the bed then. Does it look like the one under the bed would fit? Could it be an upgraded version as suggested earlier?

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To be honest I refitted the old one. I didn’t want to take the chance. The smaller bit on the plate was a lot bigger and looking at the part number it was for the bigger gearbox. 160/260. 

The problem is now I can’t get into gear. 

Goes into reverse all ok. But forward it don’t. It does when I fully adjust the cable. I’ve had to adjust it a lot. It was a new cable a few years ago. 

I did fit a doing shim between the two big washers to take the rattle out.  I borrowed the one from the spare plate. 

Edited by rustydiver

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