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Inverter - washing machine saga

Poppin

By Poppin
in Boat Equipment

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Poppin Collaborator

Poppin

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Maybe someone can help me solve my washing machine-inverter nightmare. I had an old sterling modified sine wave 1800W (peak 2800w). Machine had plenty of power but didn't run properly. Got a cheap Chinese pure sine wave inverter 1500W (peak 3000w), works a treat. Was concerned about long term safety so tried upgrading to a sterling pro combi 1600W (peak 3000W), machine ran smoothly but would cut out with an overload alarm before resuming without issues after a minute. Sterling was faulty in other ways so I returned and changed to a victron multiplus 1600W (peak 3000W), again, runs smoothly but alarm trips and inverter shuts off 5 mins in. Does not continue. NOW, the machine runs with the heating element disengaged but the overload alarms happen always at the same time (perhaps the machine activates the heating element for a second before recognising that cold wash is selected). In any case, would 3000W peak not be plenty for this? Why on earth is the cheap Chinese Edecoa inverter working without any issues and is more silent? This whole thing has been a pain

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TheBiscuits Veteran II

TheBiscuits

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I'll bet your batteries are goosed, and you are getting an undervoltage shutdown, not an overload alarm.

 

A lot depends on the washing machine, but the massive spike load you put on it when running a heating element and then start a motor at the same time can kill batteries.  You are running your engine at at least cruising revs aren't you?  I run my engine at 1500 RPM when the washing machine is on ...

 

ETA: my inverter is 3000W continuous, 6000W peak ... and my washing machine is rated at 1400W.

 

I really must plumb in that thermostatic water feed valve at some point, if only to make more space on the shelf!

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Jennifer McM Experienced

Jennifer McMDonate to Canal World

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To run our washing machine, we run the engine when not on shore power. If we've hot water in the tank, I tip a couple of buckets of hot water into the machine to help the batteries. 

 

Normally, our machine goes on when we're cruising, so I don't bother with the buckets of hot water.

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Poppin Collaborator

Poppin

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Yes yes I have the mixer valve installed. As I mentioned, the heating element does not engage as the machine has a cold wash function. My batteries are fine. I'm trying to understand why the cheap inverter works but the expensive ones cut out... Is it simply a matter of superior safety function? 

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Dr Bob Veteran II

Dr Bob

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Our machine is rated at 2300W for the heating cycle. Therefore it will not run on our 2KW Victron combi. We run it on cold and do what Jennifer said...put hot water in. A 2KW inverter will not run 2.3KW device, unless it is a cheapo chinese ...which then may go on fire.

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Jen-in-Wellies Veteran II

Jen-in-WelliesDonate to Canal World

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I would suspect the washing machine starting its drum motor from stationary. An inductive load with a lot of start up current for a fraction of a second. Perhaps when the drum is heaviest. This would explain it always happening at the same part of the cycle. Similar to the load a fridge compressor motor puts on when it kicks in. May need a higher output inverter from a reputable company to start the motor without complaints.

Jen

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Alan de Enfield Veteran II

Alan de Enfield

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42 minutes ago, Dr Bob said:

Our machine is rated at 2300W for the heating cycle. Therefore it will not run on our 2KW Victron combi. We run it on cold and do what Jennifer said...put hot water in. A 2KW inverter will not run 2.3KW device, unless it is a cheapo chinese ...which then may go on fire.

So, would the OPs 1600w machine be OK ?

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eid Community Regular

eid

Posted
Posted (edited)
15 minutes ago, Alan de Enfield said:

So, would the OPs 1600w machine be OK ?

 

The OP has a 1600W inverter, not machine. The OP hasn't answered your question regarding the machines wattage yet.

Edited by eid
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Boater Sam Influencer

Boater Sam

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20 hours ago, steve hayes said:

Thermostatic valve feeds the washer at 42 degrees, heater doesn’t switch in on a 40 degree wash 

But 42 into a cold machine will bring the heater on when stat says 40. These things are not accurate anyway.

Try it on a 30 degree wash wit 42 degrees going in. 

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mrsmelly Veteran II

mrsmellyDonate to Canal World

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Though not entirely relevant, whenever we buy a washing machine it must have either a button to switch heating element off or a cold was function as a minimum requirement. Problem is many cheap machines no longer have this capability. Wash on cold setting and just add hot water usualy works well if leccy is a problem.

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blackrose Veteran II

blackrose

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Or just don't run it from an inverter. I know lots of people do it successfully but if I'm away from shore power I prefer to run my 1600w machine from my 3kw (2.8kw rated) honda generator and save the batteries for lower loads. There's enough spare capacity to run the battery charger at the same time as the washing machine and it's a lot quieter than the engine too.

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adrianh Community Regular

adrianh

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Have you checked that the 12volt cables are the correct size and not oveheating and that you have not got any loose or bad connections causing a high resistance and voltage drop a short time after apply a load.

Also check any voltage drop on the isolator terminals that may be caused by light corrosion 

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