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removing paint using a scabbler


Steve Manc

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29 minutes ago, WotEver said:

Hire some ear defenders at the same time ;)

And a face mask and goggles.

Also a vacuum cleaner is a much easier way to collect all the paint, rust and other debris than trying to sweep it up with a brush. That just fills the air with clouds of dust (which then settles on the bit you have just swept).

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44 minutes ago, David Mack said:

And a face mask and goggles.

Also a vacuum cleaner is a much easier way to collect all the paint, rust and other debris than trying to sweep it up with a brush. That just fills the air with clouds of dust (which then settles on the bit you have just swept).

A bit like sweeping up leaves on a windy day... ;)

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  • 10 months later...
On 27/04/2019 at 15:51, dccruiser said:

... i cringe everytime I see folk using suicide seats...

Rick, newbie question - what are "suicide seats"? Are they those little flat, backless seats sometimes seen on the rear edge of the stern? I'd assume there's a risk of falling backwards into the water, if bumped?

 

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On 14/06/2020 at 14:40, jetzi said:

I've ordered 60 grit discs and an 80 grit flap. Between these I hope I can at least do my test panel, though I expect I will find a scabbler to hire when I'm ready to do the rest of the boat. Will report back on how I get on.

Remove all the light bulbs before using a scabbler or they will all fail due to the vibration.

Edited by Tracy D'arth
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2 hours ago, Rob Stuthridge said:

Rick, newbie question - what are "suicide seats"? Are they those little flat, backless seats sometimes seen on the rear edge of the stern? I'd assume there's a risk of falling backwards into the water, if bumped?

 

 

No, the tiller can hit a log / safe / shopping trolley and can be 'knocked to one side' with great force, the tiller then swings across & if you are on the suicide seat you can be knocked off, knocked unconcious & even dragged into the prop.

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2 hours ago, Alan de Enfield said:

 

No, the tiller can hit a log / safe / shopping trolley and can be 'knocked to one side' with great force, the tiller then swings across & if you are on the suicide seat you can be knocked off, knocked unconcious & even dragged into the prop.

Thanks. I've been told always to stand forward of the tiller because of just that reason.  

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  • 2 years later...
12 hours ago, Johnny123 said:

Has anybody used a scabbler to remove paint from the hull? Is this possible or only sand blastering ect? 

Depends on what is  on there. Scabblers like a fairly brittle surface.

 

Well cured Epoxy comes off OK.  Old old bitumen comes  off but is very messy.  Easier to use a long handled scraper.  Recently applied bitumen goes all smeary. Try a scraper then a power  wire brush.

 

Test it with a twist knot wire brush in an angle grinder.  If the black smears a scabbler won't like it.

 

N

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15 hours ago, Johnny123 said:

Has anybody used a scabbler to remove paint from the hull? Is this possible or only sand blastering ect? 

We just did at Langley Mill for a 3 year old 2 packed boat which hadn't been surface prepped and was still covered in millscale.

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Thanks for the replys.. iv just bought this bought it hasn't been out the water for 8 years and the surface of the hull looks pretty flakey. The surveyor said it's in good condition though whixh is good but it needs taking back to the metal, few spot welds then repainting so I'm just trying to find the best cost effective way. 

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The Tercoo blaster is effective.  They are fairly expensive.  Doing a whole boat would take a lot of time.

 

Shot blasting is best, but not many places do it.  It is expensive, but the best.

 

A wire brush works, but only on some coatings.  Yours sounds like it might be OK.  The finish is not good enough for 2 -pack and it is slow.

 

If you intend to keep the boat, blast and 2-pack. You can then forget the hull for 5 years.

 

If you intend to.sell within two or three years, wire brush and black.  Repeat just before you sell.

 

N

 

 

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18 hours ago, Johnny123 said:

Has anybody used a scabbler to remove paint from the hull? Is this possible or only sand blastering ect? 

If its bitumen, it will clog in the first 5 minutes...or less. Continued attempts will burn the motor out.

2 pack epoxy can be tackled though.

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Thanks again everyone.. its my 1st boat so im pretty new to this so I appreciate your help.

 

I'm definitely planning on keeping the boat hoping to live abroad once all done, I think blastering and 2 pack sounds best for me then.. any recommendations for that stuff im based near Liverpool 

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 Nobody has mentioned needle gunning to remove old paint and rust.  A long slow job over the whole hull, but if you wire brush first (wire cup brush in an angle grinder), and most of the hull comes up clean, then you can use the needle gun on the pitted bits.

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I love needle guns, and they are really good for prep, but you not only need the gun  you need a FO big compressor to drive it and a lot of PPE. As well as the usual boots, goggles, ear duffs and  gloves Vibration white finger can be a serious problem.

Then, for fine work and pitting, you need to sharpen.the needles often, so you need a grinder.

Finally, the things are so noisy your neighbours will really love you.

N

  • Greenie 1
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I have several needle guns ,quality one s..........would I use one to remove a large area of paint........noooo.........good for removing slag from a weld bead ,or a small area of rust (what used to be called chipping)...........For a large area of problem paint ,Id use a paint burner with hot spade.This will remove the paint ,not grind it into a fine dust at great effort..............Paint stripper is effective,but you must be able to remove the corrosive reside completely ,and any trace of residue will destroy subsequent paint ,and may cause rusting.

A cheap way to remove paint is blasting with "Black beauty"......this is a trade mane for crushed blast furnace slag,the particles are very sharp ,and the speed it removes two pack is light years ahead of anything bar steel grit in a blast room. .....Its not recyclable ,one use only ,but is very cheap .

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I have scraped a hull back to clean steel prior to 2 pack epoxy with a heavy 2 handed Skarsten tungsten carbide tipped scraper.  It was heavy work but successful, the blacking stayed on.  After scraping I went over with wire cup brush prior to coating.

The reason was that where the boat was there was no grit blasting allowed.

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