Jump to content

Replacing nb windows


SadieF

Featured Posts

Hello

Its me again. Im looking for some advice on fitting windows on my boat. I need to take out old leaky ones which have been fitted badly. And I've acquired new ones ready to fit at the weekend. They are largish rectangular. Hopper style double glazed aluminium. I have heard varied methods of how to fit the new ones. Use self tapping screws, tap a thread and use screws. Rivets. Nuts and bolts. Ive got sikaflex for the sealant but i also notice there is some rubber tape along line of where screws go through on window edges. Some are intact and some are wasted/missing. Does this rubber tape need to be used as well as the sealant? And what is the best method to screw into place? And sizes of screws to buy?Any other tips to prep me for the weekend gladly received. Thanks

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Glazing tape will be OK on its own, without any more sealant. Not sure from OP if it's new tape, or old tape stuck to the windows, but if it's old stuff, take it off. Salant is an alternative. Sikaflex will seal, but may cause problems if the window ever has to be rmoved again. Don't re-use screws. They will be wasted at the part which needs to grip. Tapped holes and machine screws are a better job than self tappers, but will take a lot longer, especially if self tappers with a built in drill bit are used. Rivets are as quick as self tappers, and have the advantage (counter intuitively!) that they're easier to remove if the window has to come out in the future.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You don't say what material your boat is, but if it is steel, and the old windows are leaking badly on the actual join to the shell, then it is almost guaranteed that on removal you may find much corrosion, and probably pitting of the steel.  If you put new ones back without fully cleaning that up, rust treating, and several layers of appropriate primers and paints, in my view you will only get a very few years before they start leaking again, whatever the actual sealing method you use.

However if your cabin top is not steel please ignore all I have just said (!)

I'm personally not a fan of the closed cell foam window tapes.  I would always prefer to use a mastic putty.  Glasticord is good, but often hard to buy in small quantities.

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yes its steel. And i don't doubt there will be some corrosion. Someone did one for me a while back and need to cut a strip from steel above anyhow as new windows slightly bigger. I have rust treatment. Angle gjnder with wire wheel. And red oxide. Do i need more primer than this? I beleive thats whats used before however I will redo the one already done as i want them all matching.

 

And the glazing tape on Windows ive got is old from previous fittings. I cant imagine how just using the tape will make it water tight as there is a big outside lip that tape doesnt fully cover. I will photograph later and send. Right now I'm thinking to clear off all previous tape/gunk and use sikaflex with rivets

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.