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How to repair water damage?


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Hi,

 

Does anyone know how I can tackle or at least mask/hide the water damage shown below? The other side is the shower cubicle. I believe the water damage was caused by a bad silicone seal. I have since replaced it with a unibond silicone sealant and since then the water damage hasn't gotten worse but ultimately I want rid of the water damage. Replacing the ply wouldn't be a task I'd like to undertake. - the other side is decoratively tiled. 

 

I have tried using oxalic acid though it didn't help at all and from what I have read it's not best suited for this type of stain.

 

Any suggestions appreciated. Worst case scenario I will have to apply some form of damp seal and paint the interior boat but to be honest I like the light oak wood effect throughout and wish to keep it if I can. 

 

Cheers

 

Rich

 

file.jpeg

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3 minutes ago, RichM said:

Hi,

 

Does anyone know how I can tackle or at least mask/hide the water damage shown below? The other side is the shower cubicle. I believe the water damage was caused by a bad silicone seal. I have since replaced it with a unibond silicone sealant and since then the water damage hasn't gotent worse but ultimately I want rid of the water damage. Replacing the ply wouldn't be a task I'd like to undertake. - the other side is decoratively tiled. 

 

I have tried using oxalic acid though it didn't help at all and from what I have read it's not best suited for this type of stain.

 

Any suggestions appreciated. Worst case scenario I will have to apply some form of damp seal and paint the interior boat but to be honest I like the light oak wood effect throughout and wish to keep it if I can. 

 

Cheers

 

Rich

 

file.jpeg

That looks exactly like the inside of my shower door when I bought my boat.The inside of the shower was tiled but the door was bare ply.

Sanded and sanded till I got fed up,and still the water staining refused to go.  Finally painted it dove grey with Dulux Weathershield. I thought about woodstain but reasoned that the whole door would have to be as dark (or darker) than the water staining.

Hope someone has a better solution for you than painting.

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40 minutes ago, Paringa said:

Or maybe a bit of this http://www.thewoodveneerhub.co.uk/european-oak-psa-peel-and-stick-veneer/ over the top and then add a finish of choice to try to match the other bits?

A friend of mine used this. He did a neat job and put some on an adjoining panel. I defy anyone to tell its not pukka. It does a great job, just take care putting it on and trimming.

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Definitely cover it with something. Paint is a poor solution really so either veneer or a thin sheet of veneered ply. If you use ply then you can waterproof the reverse side prior to fitting it. 

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I have succeeded with oxalic acid but on a much smaller area, first you have to remove the wax/varnish to expose the wood I used a gel paint stripper and then washed that off. I then used oxalic acid (powder form) mixed to a paste and smeared it on and left it on (the destructions said make a liquid and coat for an hour) I reapplied several times, and about 3 days later washed it all off. The wood was now white so I applied a penetrating stain as required I found (pine best) and then re varnished. You can just see the area but it is as much the change in the sheen as the colour.

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Plus, of course, you must find the source of the issue and solve it, otherwise you'll need to repair the repair. ;)

If that's a door with no source of damp to cause it, then it may well be a damp atmosphere caused by inadequate ventilation, perhaps after using the shower.

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13 minutes ago, Sea Dog said:

Plus, of course, you must find the source of the issue and solve it...

Hmmm...

23 hours ago, RichM said:

I believe the water damage was caused by a bad silicone seal. I have since replaced it with a unibond silicone sealant and since then the water damage hasn't gotten worse

 

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3 hours ago, WotEver said:

Hmmm...

 

There's always some girly swat who either reads the whole thread from the beginning or remembers what he read earlier on in the thread from an earlier session...!  :P

 

(My error - sorry) :blush:

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2 minutes ago, Sea Dog said:

There's always some girly swat who either reads the whole thread from the beginning or remembers what he read earlier on in the thread from an earlier session...!  :P

 

(My error - sorry) :blush:

tchchchch, who would think it?

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I had exactly the same issue but in my case the bulkhead is just veneered so I don't think the oxalic acid would work. After letting the bulkhead dry out for a couple of weeks I used B&Q vinyl flooring 'planks' and stuck them on with clear Stixall from toolstation. The vinyl planks are self adhesive but obviously not designed to be stuck onto vertical surfaces. The colour match is actually better than it appears in this picture with the camera flash. You don't really notice it because it's not at eye level. Anyway, it only cost about 12 quid in total so it's fine.

 

Edit: I had to rip out the shower on the other side to replace the cheapo 3mm tile effect wall lining I'd fitted 10 years earlier. I used decent quality Showerwall to replace it. That and the new cubicle were the expensive bits! I kept the original ceramic tray.

 

IMG_20190408_185311_3.jpg

Edited by blackrose
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Thanks for the ideas, Good to know I've got some options. I guess this may be one reason why many prefer to paint the interior of their boats rather than keep the wood effect look?
 

8 hours ago, Detling said:

I have succeeded with oxalic acid but on a much smaller area, first you have to remove the wax/varnish to expose the wood I used a gel paint stripper and then washed that off. I then used oxalic acid (powder form) mixed to a paste and smeared it on and left it on (the destructions said make a liquid and coat for an hour) I reapplied several times, and about 3 days later washed it all off. The wood was now white so I applied a penetrating stain as required I found (pine best) and then re varnished. You can just see the area but it is as much the change in the sheen as the colour.

Maybe I should give Oxalic acid another go, it has worked wonders on the galley worktop but I realise it's a different surface altogether. If that fails I will look at the other options suggested.

Cheers

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