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6 minutes ago, mark99 said:

Anyone know how this stuff works?

 

I find it very efficient at freeing up seized nuts and threaded items.

 

Good stuff, but no idea about the chemistry sorry
I find diesel is quite good for releasing corroded stuff and I always have a bit kicking about.

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6 minutes ago, catweasel said:

Good stuff, but no idea about the chemistry sorry
I find diesel is quite good for releasing corroded stuff and I always have a bit kicking about.

I heard that too. Funny WD40 always seems to fail in this respect.

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8 minutes ago, mark99 said:

I heard that too. Funny WD40 always seems to fail in this respect.

I too find WD40 is not brilliant. Good for shifting water and not bad when sharpening chisels and stuff. Not bad for cooling drills, tapping and stuff if nothing else to hand. 

Guy here makes his own 

 

Edited by Guest
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Plus Gas is mainly  a light oil with additives that change its surface tension and so encourage it to penetrate. It then wicks its way through the rust and the small gaps which are inherent in any threaded fastening.

 

Diesel (red or white) also works quite well, but doesn't smell so good!

 

N

 

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4 hours ago, mark99 said:

I heard that too. Funny WD40 always seems to fail in this respect.

If wd40 worked they wouldn't make another product specially to free up rusted items which you can buy in Halfords

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What a waste of a 14 yr old malt in that you tube video, (but I bet it smells better than all the alternatives) !!!!.  I work with oil boilers, and find that a bit of kerosene, (28 sec heating oil) is very effective. In years gone by, I've found brake fluid to be very good, and pre EU regulations, real vinegar also did the trick. It also worked well if you've used a bit of heat on a seized joint, where diesel or kero can be risky.

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3 minutes ago, Ex Brummie said:

What a waste of a 14 yr old malt in that you tube video, (but I bet it smells better than all the alternatives) !!!!.  I work with oil boilers, and find that a bit of kerosene, (28 sec heating oil) is very effective. In years gone by, I've found brake fluid to be very good, and pre EU regulations, real vinegar also did the trick. It also worked well if you've used a bit of heat on a seized joint, where diesel or kero can be risky.

 

I don't understand why mess aboiut with all these things when the real thing, penetrating oil, is so much better. The viscosity of the stuff is WAY lower than diesel, kerosine, brake fluid, vinegar or anything else and the cost of it is trivial.

 

But in my experience heat is by FAR the most effective.

 

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I suppose anything to hand if you've not got the 'proper' stuff, is better than nothing. My tool kit contains penetrating oil, silicon spray, WD40, liquid grease and good old 3 in 1. Yes, heat is the most effective, and a little patience also comes in handy.

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1 hour ago, Bee said:

If you have an Austin Allegro WD 40 is good for spraying all over the distributor cap. If you have an Allegro you need all the help you can get.

If you still have a (working) Allegro, you have created more miracles than the other bloke.

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58 minutes ago, Ex Brummie said:

I suppose anything to hand if you've not got the 'proper' stuff, is better than nothing. My tool kit contains penetrating oil, silicon spray, WD40, liquid grease and good old 3 in 1. Yes, heat is the most effective, and a little patience also comes in handy.

And a bigger hammer if that lot does not work!

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5 hours ago, Ex Brummie said:

My tool kit contains penetrating oil, silicon spray, WD40, liquid grease and good old 3 in 1. 

That stuff shouldn't be in your toolkit, it should be in your COSHH locker.  I have written your name in the COSHH log and expect you'll be getting a visit from the CWDF Health and Safety Representative very soon. :captain:

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6 hours ago, Ex Brummie said:

What a waste of a 14 yr old malt in that you tube video, (but I bet it smells better than all the alternatives) !!!!.  I work with oil boilers, and find that a bit of kerosene, (28 sec heating oil) is very effective. In years gone by, I've found brake fluid to be very good, and pre EU regulations, real vinegar also did the trick. It also worked well if you've used a bit of heat on a seized joint, where diesel or kero can be risky.

Yes good to know alternatives if you haven't got the "correct" stuff to hand. A guy once told me that milk cooled drills when drilling steel and it does work. Obviously the real stuff is best. Another building site trick; coffee power is  useful to darken stain/varnish.

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7 hours ago, Bee said:

If you have an Austin Allegro WD 40 is good for spraying all over the distributor cap. If you have an Allegro you need all the help you can get.

Oh I remember that, although mine was a mini the dizzy cap used to get a regular treatment with WD40,  there used to be a spray plastic sealer for the same job, anyone remember?

 

To add

I used to carry in the  very tiny boot

Hammer, for 'ammering starter

WD40 

Spare dizzy cap

Spare HT leads

Spare plugs

Spare points

Oil

Water and antifreeze 

Duck tape ( very fine for split hoses)

Fan belt

Spray plastic sealant for 'lectrics 

Bulbs

And I'm sure there was more :)

Edited by tree monkey
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Just now, tree monkey said:

Oh I remember that, although mine was a mini the dizzy cap used to get a regular treatment with WD40,  there used to be a spray plastic sealer for the same job, anyone remember?

When I owned a Mini and then a Fiat 500 estate I worked at Birdseye Foods and we use to use a spray called "Combat" it was a wonderful water repellent, best I have ever used. I have opened an electric motor starter contractor that has been full of water and blown all three phase fuses,  drained the water, sprayed it out with Combat, shut it up and replaced the fuses to restart a production line more than once. normally at 5-30 in the morning ready for a 6 am start

  • Greenie 1
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8 hours ago, Ex Brummie said:

What a waste of a 14 yr old malt in that you tube video, (but I bet it smells better than all the alternatives) !!!!. 

I can only assume he quaffs Plusgas as his tipple of choice. Cheaper!

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