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Pump to empty bath keeps cutting out


Tasemu

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Just now, Iain_S said:

It's a diaphragm pump, so will happily run dry. Does it still cut out when its input hose (bath to pump) is disconnected?

 

If so, it's likely to be bearing trouble as Tony suggested.

Excellent! I had no idea, i'll run it in a moment and report back :)

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1 minute ago, TheBiscuits said:

:clapping:Let's see if he falls for that one ... he might be a while before replying if he does!

 

I almost did on my own... but only stopped because i couldn't fit my head under the bath to reach it hahaha

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24 minutes ago, Tasemu said:

I almost did on my own... but only stopped because i couldn't fit my head under the bath to reach it hahaha

Heh.  Use another length of pipe connected to the waste pipe, preferably longer than the bath pipe, and don't blow too hard without covering the bath waste with a cloth.

 

You may wonder how I know this ...

Edited by TheBiscuits
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Ok so i just disconnected the bath to the pump and ran the pump, it still cuts out after 5 seconds, and last less time each subsequent try. For example:

 

press and hold: lasts 5 seconds

press and hold: lasts 3 seconds

press and hold: lasts 1 second

press and half: lasts half a second

 

leave for a while

 

press and hold: lasts 5 seconds

etc

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16 minutes ago, Tasemu said:

Ok so i just disconnected the bath to the pump and ran the pump, it still cuts out after 5 seconds, and last less time each subsequent try. For example:

 

press and hold: lasts 5 seconds

press and hold: lasts 3 seconds

press and hold: lasts 1 second

press and half: lasts half a second

 

leave for a while

 

press and hold: lasts 5 seconds

etc

OK. Next move is dismantle the motor ...  (as well as checking that the pipe from the bath is clear)

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Just now, Iain_S said:

OK. Next move is dismantle the motor ...  (as well as checking that the pipe from the bath is clear)

That may be difficult, i cannot get the motor off its mounting brackets, those screws are in tight as hell.

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15 minutes ago, Iain_S said:

OK. Next move is dismantle the motor ...  (as well as checking that the pipe from the bath is clear)

I disagree. Next move is replace the pump with a Gulper. Well, it would be if ‘twas my boat. 

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The Jabsco diaphragm pump is very similar to the Whale Gulper. I'd rather spend some time fixing one (probably a simple clean up and smear of oil/grease) than lash out £100 or so on a new pump. But, then, I'm just mean! ?

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1 minute ago, Tasemu said:

Still gonna have to somehow get this pump off the mounts... 

I have several large hammers I could lend you... ;)

1 minute ago, Iain_S said:

I'd rather spend some time fixing one (probably a simple clean up and smear of oil/grease) than lash out £100 or so on a new pump

But then how long before it goes faulty again?

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3 minutes ago, Tasemu said:

Bidding on a whale gulper now, come on cheapo ebay you can do it!

Still gonna have to somehow get this pump off the mounts... Maybe JD will help.

Me too. Is it the 24V one?

 

(only joking, I already own 2)

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56 minutes ago, Iain_S said:

OK. Next move is dismantle the motor ...  (as well as checking that the pipe from the bath is clear)

 

In that case I'd say the motor has an overheat cutout thermostat built into it. The motor temp is rising rapidly when running so each time it trips, it has cooled less when you run it again.

 

Chances of fixing the motor overheat are slim, I'd say, given it is doing it with no load.

 

Buy a new pump and get on with the rest of your life!  

Edited by Mike the Boilerman
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Not necessarily bearings although most single diaphragm pumps have a extra on on the pump connecting rod. As the OP says it actually runs I would suspect an armature winding short circuit.

 

If you re-strip the pump try swivelling the diaphragm connecting rod on the eccentric pin and try twisting the motor shaft by hand. Both should be easy fairly easy except there will be a magnetic "brake" on the motor shaft because it almost certainly uses permanent field magnets. If that all feels OK then look at the armature windings. They really should all be the same colour but if some are darker than the rest suspect a problem.

 

Having said all that I am with the others who said its probably best to try for a new pump.

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I've mounted the new whale gulper level on the floor, and wired it all up. The exact same issue is happening with the new pump. I hold the switch on the wall and the pump cuts out after a few seconds. ?

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Excellent...

 

Now we know it is a wiring problem, not a pump problem. AND you now have a spare pump, never a bad thing!

 

So, just to make 100% sure, rig up the old pump directly to the battery and make sure it runs continuously without cutting out. Then start tracing the wires that go to the pump location in the bathroom. Obviously there is a failing connection somewhere. The task is now to find it. OR, abandon the existing wires and install a new circuit. 

 

Edit to add:

 

On reflection I'd start by suspecting that push-button switch for operating the pump you mention in your first post. Shame no-one picked up on that, but the 'running for a few seconds then stopping' nature of the fault is most unusual for a bad switch. They usually either work, or don't work. Do you have a multi-meter to measure the voltage on the pump terminals? If not, go out and buy one. You'll need it for this and it will be invaluable in the future.

Edited by Mike the Boilerman
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I also thought it might be the switch, i found a "fuse box" that when opened showed a lot of chips and an arial instead of fuses. This got me thinking that the switch on the wall may perhaps be a remote switch to this box... And a remote switch must need a battery. When i opened up the wall switch, bam, there was a a27 battery that is flat as a pancake! I've not put a simple rocker switch rated at 10 amps in the positive line to the pump and removed the remote box. Soon i'll try and find a new a27 battery and rig it back up. but I'm happy to have a working pump now :)

 

pics:

 

 

56400415_894427420907771_7003732568914788352_n.jpg

56711204_580225432480616_2494257138520555520_n.jpg

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3 minutes ago, Tasemu said:

I also thought it might be the switch, i found a "fuse box" that when opened showed a lot of chips and an arial instead of fuses. This got me thinking that the switch on the wall may perhaps be a remote switch to this box... And a remote switch must need a battery. When i opened up the wall switch, bam, there was a a27 battery that is flat as a pancake! I've not put a simple rocker switch rated at 10 amps in the positive line to the pump and removed the remote box. Soon i'll try and find a new a27 battery and rig it back up. but I'm happy to have a working pump now :)

What a classic case of needless complexity! Congratulations on sorting it, it’s been a fascinating thread. Presumably the remote saves a couple of feet of cable?

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Just now, BruceinSanity said:

What a classic case of needless complexity! Congratulations on sorting it, it’s been a fascinating thread. Presumably the remote saves a couple of feet of cable?

Yep i reckon so, its a remote button on the wall, my new switch is right next to the pump, but just a temp measure, but if it dies again i have a backup switch :)

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