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Hull Blackening, the latest recomendations?


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Hi all!

I've just been and booked a dry dock so as i can get Largo's bottom painted.

 

Now the problem!

Having searched through, what is deemed to be the search area, of the forum and finding little up to date information.

I must admit that this old chaps brain is a little confused with the question of who's Bituminous stuff shall I use?

 

Can you lot recommend a coating that will be easy to apply, bearing in mind that Largo is 70ft. I have the dry dock booked for 5 days with Largo relaunching on the morning of the 6th day, and also, I will probably be on my own!

 

Here is a small list of the paints I know about, and there are no doubt others!

 

Midland Chandlers own blackening (but could be Teamac's Metalastic)

INTERTUF JBA 016,    RAYLARDS RYTEX,  RAYLARDS PREMIUM PROTECTION, BALLISTIC BLACK, SEALEX B130?

 

I hope I can get some idea of the paint of preference for 2019?

 

Thanks for reading this .

 

Nipper

Edited by nipper
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Ballistic black is still very new and not "field tested" but the latest thinking appears to regard it only as a cosmetic finish to go over some sort of undercoat....so not quick to apply. The rest are all much of a muchness (though have not heard of Sealex) and will need redoing in two years time, three if you are very lucky.

 

The two options really are any blacking and redo every two years, or shot blast and epoxy which will last much longer, but might still need some scrape repairs every few years if you use the boat a lot.

 

................Dave

 

 

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Ballistic Black has been available for a least 5 years so not so new. We were advised by SML to apply it over 2 coats of Vinyguard Primer to ensure adhesion over any remaining previous blacking so does need a full 7 days in the drydock. That was  Spring 2016 and I was quite impressed with it's performance. So we used  it again in Spring last year.

 

It is very thick so has a tendency to 'ruckle up' rather than scrape off, if you get my meaning. The primer stays on whatever.

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2 hours ago, rgreg said:

Two coats of Rylards Premium followed by one coat of Rylards Rytex is my preferred method. 

Thanks, but can you tell me why that way around?

I can understand the two different paints, but I thought the Premium would be better as a first coat and a final coat because of it's suggested better qualities? or have i got that back to front?

Nipper

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29 minutes ago, rgreg said:

You're quite right , I worded that incorrectly. Premium first and last and Rytex in the middle; this is a recommendation I was given by a well respected "old hand" several years ago.

Thanks for that! It does seem the way to go. 

Having read some reports about Keelblack I've decided not to even look into that! ?

 

Nipper

 

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4 hours ago, nipper said:

Thanks Dave ?

 

55 minutes ago, nipper said:

Thanks for that! It does seem the way to go. 

Having read some reports about Keelblack I've decided not to even look into that! ?

 

Nipper

 

Keelblack is, I believe, what Dave was referring to earlier since Ballistic Black is much more conventional. 

 

With Rylards, I use the thinner Premium first to get into all the nooks and crannies, then the thicker Rytex for scrape resistance, then finish with Premium for its greater diesel resistance. Premium is a bit shinier than the flat black Rytex so some don't like the look.

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1 hour ago, nipper said:

Thanks for that! It does seem the way to go. 

Having read some reports about Keelblack I've decided not to even look into that! ?

 

Nipper

 

I have Keelblack on and I am very happy with it I have done it twice now so at the 2 year point it was still in place and looking good.

It is covering Zinger so is purely cosmetic but that hasnt stopped it staying where I sprayed it

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50 minutes ago, peterboat said:

I have Keelblack on and I am very happy with it I have done it twice now so at the 2 year point it was still in place and looking good.

It is covering Zinger so is purely cosmetic but that hasnt stopped it staying where I sprayed it

But you don't know if its porous or not as the Zinger will be making a barrier between it and the steel, all you know is that its stuck

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1 hour ago, peterboat said:

I have Keelblack on and I am very happy with it I have done it twice now so at the 2 year point it was still in place and looking good.

It is covering Zinger so is purely cosmetic but that hasnt stopped it staying where I sprayed it

Yes, you seem to have the perfect situation.

 

However, having a 15 year old boat that started off with a good quality two pack apoxy that got spoiled by the next owner putting the cheapest black stuff he could find. Then I bought the boat, I have over the last few years inherited what i have!

Keelblack looks to be too liguid for the hull of my boat and all its undulations, added to that it's dying times are not exactly quick!

 

Nipper

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1 hour ago, Sea Dog said:

 

 

 

With Rylards, I use the thinner Premium first to get into all the nooks and crannies, then the thicker Rytex for scrape resistance, then finish with Premium for its greater diesel resistance. Premium is a bit shinier than the flat black Rytex so some don't like the look.

This is exactly what we do!

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3 hours ago, Sea Dog said:

 

Keelblack is, I believe, what Dave was referring to earlier since Ballistic Black is much more conventional. 

 

With Rylards, I use the thinner Premium first to get into all the nooks and crannies, then the thicker Rytex for scrape resistance, then finish with Premium for its greater diesel resistance. Premium is a bit shinier than the flat black Rytex so some don't like the look.

Yes, I had got KeelBlack and Ballistic Black confused.

 

This morning I had a good scrub along the waterline to inspect the epoxy. We had a shotblast and epoxy in September 2012. £1650, which with hindsight was an absolute bargain. In July 16 we drydocked and took the various scrapes back to bare metal, plus two new coats of epoxy on top of the old. The waterline is currently perfect. I can see a couple of big scrapes below the waterline from mooring against protruding stone washwalls, plus the under-water guard iron and baseplate edge have lost most of their epoxy. We do about 1000 miles each, though much less this year. I am very happy about the state of the epoxy. I have booked a drydock for this summer to repair the scrapes and plan to have one new coat on the entire boat.  The next time we drydock after that I am going to think seriously about getting the baseplate done in epoxy.

 

...............Dave

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14 hours ago, nipper said:

Hi all!

I've just been and booked a dry dock so as i can get Largo's bottom painted.

 

Now the problem!

Having searched through, what is deemed to be the search area, of the forum and finding little up to date information.

I must admit that this old chaps brain is a little confused with the question of who's Bituminous stuff shall I use?

 

Can you lot recommend a coating that will be easy to apply, bearing in mind that Largo is 70ft. I have the dry dock booked for 5 days with Largo relaunching on the morning of the 6th day, and also, I will probably be on my own!

 

Here is a small list of the paints I know about, and there are no doubt others!

 

Midland Chandlers own blackening (but could be Teamac's Metalastic)

INTERTUF JBA 016,    RAYLARDS RYTEX,  RAYLARDS PREMIUM PROTECTION, BALLISTIC BLACK, SEALEX B130?

 

I hope I can get some idea of the paint of preference for 2019?

 

Thanks for reading this .

 

Nipper

 

It makes very little difference. I'm my experience all bituminous blacking is rubbish and will only last a few years at best. It's really not worth worrying about, just slap a few coats on and be prepared to do it again soon.

 

If you want more technical paints that require better prep and will last up to a decade they are available, but you'd need to get rid of all the bitumen first. Think about it for next time 

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19 minutes ago, blackrose said:

If you want more technical paints that require better prep and will last up to a decade they are available, but you'd need to get rid of all the bitumen first.

Unless you use your boat.  Sitting in a marina does not count, but that is where the 7,8,9,10 year life of 2-pack rumours originate from.

 

We do over 500 miles and 500 locks every year, and there is no paint system on the planet that can take being scratched against lock walls and shopping trolleys to that extent and not fall off.

 

We use premium 2-pack every time. and expect to redo it every 2 or 3 years ... and put up with rusty bits on the scrapes in between.

 

Bitumen is wood preservative, so is great on a wooden hull.  It's fecking useless on steel, but people remember the old boys always used it on timber so it must be ideal ... right up to the point it dissolves in a diesel spill from the fuel jetty 20 yards away.

  • Greenie 1
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5 hours ago, blackrose said:

 

It makes very little difference. I'm my experience all bituminous blacking is rubbish and will only last a few years at best. It's really not worth worrying about, just slap a few coats on and be prepared to do it again soon.

 

If you want more technical paints that require better prep and will last up to a decade they are available, but you'd need to get rid of all the bitumen first. Think about it for next time 

Yes, but it all makes work for those that do it for money!

Largo was two packed when she was launched, but unfortunately the idiot owner that I bought her off had bituminous put on the bottom. I found that out a month after I bought her!

Having used two pack for years on bumpy water boating, I was a little disappointing as i would of certainly carried on using it! Yes, it gets scraped off and nothing will prevent that but one can rest assured that if it is put on right the vast majority of the hull would be totally protected.

Nipper

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8 hours ago, Mike the Boilerman said:

 

That should work out cheaper than actually having it done!

 

 

But thinking is very hard work. I believe the brain uses more energy than any other part of the body. When my son was a teenager he wanted to loose weight (dunno why) so he planned to spent all weekends lying on the sofa thinking very hard.

 

...........Dave

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26 minutes ago, dmr said:

But thinking is very hard work. I believe the brain uses more energy than any other part of the body. When my son was a teenager he wanted to loose weight (dunno why) so he planned to spent all weekends lying on the sofa thinking very hard.

 

...........Dave

 

 

I've given up thinking for Lent...

 

 

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55 minutes ago, Mike the Boilerman said:

 

 

I've given up thinking for Lent...

 

 

PM sent, its private because its about secret things ?.

 

.............Dave

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