mboat01 Posted March 29, 2019 Report Share Posted March 29, 2019 Just got a new hobbit stove :-P . Got it with stand , which raises it 158mm and has a steel plate built in as heat reflector. Want a tiled hearth. Ideally 25mm, which would be 8mm tiles, 3-4mm tile cement, 12mm Masterboard. Would that be okay in terms of BSS ??. Does the stand make a difference in terms of BSS (Ive looked at reg's .pdf and cant find anything specific). its not a new boat so I know its not mandatory but Ive got a BSS due and Id like (i) it to be safe, and; (ii) keep the BSS Insp. happy ? . Otherwise to go the solfitec recommended route would mean 60mm (8mm tile, 3-4mm cement, 15mm cement board, 25mm silicate, 10mm airgap) -- seems like overkill to me ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackrose Posted March 29, 2019 Report Share Posted March 29, 2019 (edited) I don't think the hearth itself is anything to do with the BSS? An inspector will just check that the stove is properly fixed down, that it draws, doesn't leak and its general condition. I suppose if they see scorching in the area they would make recommendations. Anyway just go with the stove manufacturer's instructions as best as you can. As for not being a new boat so not mandatory, even if it was a new boat the CE/RCD regs which may cover a hearth are only mandatory for builders, not for anyone fitting a stove themselves and having it tested under the BSS. Edited March 29, 2019 by blackrose Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LadyG Posted March 29, 2019 Report Share Posted March 29, 2019 (edited) The same store has quarry tiles, which have rounded edge and plain, to me that looks smarter, different colours too. https://www.firetile.co.uk/shop/quarry-tiles/black-quarry-tiles/ oh sry I see your porcelain tiles also have single rounded edge and double rounded edge option. Ask the retailer what they think, I would say 25mm height is fairly small. I read the 25mm plus air gap as referring to the sides/back. The base is designed for log storage, so there can't be a problem of combustion ........... I think, but am not 100% happy to leave fire unattended with logs below. To me, on a boat, the stove should be bolted down, but I am not sure how this can be accomplished, Edited March 29, 2019 by LadyG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mboat01 Posted March 29, 2019 Author Report Share Posted March 29, 2019 (edited) Thanks. The 25mm height Im aiming for is so that it will end up flush with solid floor planking (probably 22-25mm boards, maybe reclaimed, maybe new). Then Ill use the tiles too in the galley corridor area (with a 2mm dpm sheet as bathtub underneath), like this https://www.pinterest.co.uk/pin/771874823615029798/, and all will be at the same level, sort of -- massively optimistic I know !. Edited March 29, 2019 by Sassy Lass Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Brooks Posted March 29, 2019 Report Share Posted March 29, 2019 Although not directly applicable to boats the need for a thicker heat/fire proof hearth under a stove depends upon the fire being designed and tested to ensure the heat emitted below is less than a certain temperature. You nee to check the data for your stove although it sounds as if it might be. I would be more concerned about how far all round the hearth extends and having a "fender" so if hot coals ever fell out they would be retained on the hearth. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LadyG Posted March 29, 2019 Report Share Posted March 29, 2019 (edited) 4 hours ago, Tony Brooks said: Although not directly applicable to boats the need for a thicker heat/fire proof hearth under a stove depends upon the fire being designed and tested to ensure the heat emitted below is less than a certain temperature. You nee to check the data for your stove although it sounds as if it might be. I would be more concerned about how far all round the hearth extends and having a "fender" so if hot coals ever fell out they would be retained on the hearth. The other thing is the practicality of a flush hearth, a raised hearth collects the ash and then that can more easily be brushed in to a dustpan, somehow I like a raised hearth, for aesthetic reasons too................ Edited March 29, 2019 by LadyG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LadyG Posted March 29, 2019 Report Share Posted March 29, 2019 (edited) 5 hours ago, Sassy Lass said: Thanks. The 25mm height Im aiming for is so that it will end up flush with solid floor planking (probably 22-25mm boards, maybe reclaimed, maybe new). Then Ill use the tiles too in the galley corridor area (with a 2mm dpm sheet as bathtub underneath), like this https://www.pinterest.co.uk/pin/771874823615029798/, and all will be at the same level, sort of -- massively optimistic I know !. some useful info here, I don't think you can lay your tiles, and then the floor, realistically. There is also a youtube video of the laying of recycled maple flooring. and it was not easy! and there is one on sanding ,,,,,,,,,,,,,, I would say the completed job is excellent, well thought out. Edited March 29, 2019 by LadyG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mboat01 Posted March 29, 2019 Author Report Share Posted March 29, 2019 Thanks All. Im checking with manufacturer re temps below. Really good practical point wrt having a lip to collect coals and ash. Think I will heed advice and go back to usual route of raised hearth with lip if possible. Still going to stick with quarry tiles though ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Brooks Posted March 30, 2019 Report Share Posted March 30, 2019 I would not have a fixed lip because it makes brushing up the fine ash harder. I got a length of black iron bar about 1.25" wide and 3/16" thick and bent it to sit close to the edges of the hearth. I then painted it heat resistant black. It just sits in place and is heavy enough not to move but can be removed to put a dustpan against the hearth and the ash brushed off. You would need a vice and possibly a bit of heat to bend the iron. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mboat01 Posted March 30, 2019 Author Report Share Posted March 30, 2019 You must be a mind reader !!! - small fender like you describe was my other thought. Know a metal fab that I'm sure would do the job with an off cut for just a few quid. Having flush finish would allow me to extend tiled area good distance which I think would look good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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