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Treating rust -steel boat.


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On 20/03/2019 at 19:40, dmr said:

Rust converters are a last resort compromise, the ideal is to get right back to bare metal and just use a good primer, I particularly like Bondaprimer

I was looking at this on ebay, there seems to be lots of price variance. Where do you buy yours from? I have lost faith in red oxide,it seems to get worse each year.

 

ETA....and back on topic (no hazlenuts involved).

Edited by rusty69
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2 minutes ago, Alan de Enfield said:

There wouldn't be - they have all been squirreled away awaiting a price increase due to lack of availability after 12th April

You have taken it off topic again! Grrrrrrrrrrr..............

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17 minutes ago, rusty69 said:

I was looking at this on ebay, there seems to be lots of price variance. Where do you buy yours from? I have lost faith in red oxide,it seems to get worse each year.

 

ETA....and back on topic (no hazlenuts involved).

Its a lot harder to get these days, used to be common in car accessory shops but other brands that handle a range of paints now have more marketing muscle.

I use eBay, and yes, there is a big price variation. I get a 1 or even 2.5 litre pot every year or two (better value). I use it quite a bit. Our gunnels and front and back decks are done in Raddle but I put a final coat of Bondaprimer on top as its less slippy in the wet. It does fade a bit in the sun but I quite like that, and its very quick to put a new coat on.

 

If you get a big tin then do note its really volatile (quick drying is a big bonus) and its losing solvent all the time the tin is open so getting more and more stodgy. When you get the new tin stir well then decant into a few jamjars and use these one at a time.

Brushes clean with Acetone, not white spirit.

 

...............Dave

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1 minute ago, dmr said:

Its a lot harder to get these days, used to be common in car accessory shops but other brands that handle a range of paints now have more marketing muscle.

I use eBay, and yes, there is a big price variation. I get a 1 or even 2.5 litre pot every year or two (better value). I use it quite a bit. Our gunnels and front and back decks are done in Raddle but I put a final coat of Bondaprimer on top as its less slippy in the wet. It does fade a bit in the sun but I quite like that, and its very quick to put a new coat on.

 

If you get a big tin then do note its really volatile (quick drying is a big bonus) and its losing solvent all the time the tin is open so getting more and more stodgy. When you get the new tin stir well then decant into a few jamjars and use these one at a time.

Brushes clean with Acetone, not white spirit.

 

...............Dave

I was going to buy a 2.5 litre tin, but can't find an Argos delivery. I will check out local motor shops.Thanks.

 

 

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15 minutes ago, rusty69 said:

I was going to buy a 2.5 litre tin, but can't find an Argos delivery. I will check out local motor shops.Thanks.

 

 

The eBay collection click and collect system still leaves a bit to be desired.

Have just looked at WWW and see that BondaPrimer is part of the Rustins range, I am almost certain this is a new development, maybe it will be available in some hardware shops now.

 

...............Dave

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1 minute ago, dmr said:

The eBay collection click and collect system still leaves a bit to be desired.

Have just looked at WWW and see that BondaPrimer is part of the Rustins range, I am almost certain this is a new development, maybe it will be available in some hardware shops now.

 

...............Dave

I did actually e-mail Rustins yesterday. They said there were no local stockists near me, though I could buy it on Amazon, or the Rustins website. I could find it on neither.

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13 minutes ago, TheBiscuits said:

Nobody likes a smartarse!

13 minutes ago, TheBiscuits said:

This is the web link they gave me:-

 

https://www.rustins.ltd/rustins/

 

I spent ages looking for it.Cheaper on ebay though. £27.99 compared to £55.36 through Rustins.

 

ETA.Just seen it along the top. Need to visit specsavers.

 

Reading the data sheet, it says suitable for high humidity and temperature down to 0 degrees c. Sounds good.

Edited by rusty69
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On 20/03/2019 at 19:40, dmr said:

How deep is the rust and is there significant pitting?

 

Rust converters are a last resort compromise, the ideal is to get right back to bare metal and just use a good primer, I particularly like Bondaprimer. If you wanted to be really flash you could even use a surface tolerant epoxy primer but they tend to come in big tins.

 

Use an angle grinder, probably with a course sanding disc, to get back to bare metal, taking care to not mess up any steel that will be visible. A few small pits can be "dug out" with a grinding stone in a Dremmel.  If you get to bare metal then don't use a rust converter "just in case" because thats daft. If you have just a tiny bit of rust at the bottom of pits you can ignore it, it will be fine, but dab on a bit of converter if you wish.  If you can not get to bare metal then use a rust converter, but you are likely slowing down the rust rather than stopping it.

 

..............Dave

 

I agree with all if this. Rust converters are a bodge. They're for people who don't know how or can't be bothered to prep their steel properly. I did steel prep/epoxying for a living for 2 years using angle grinders with wire wheels and chipping hammers on a couple of big 1890s riveted steel boats. It's hard work but you can get every bit of rust off.

Edited by blackrose
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17 minutes ago, blackrose said:

 

I agree with all if this. Rust converters are a bodge. They're for people who don't know how or can't be bothered to prep their steel properly. I did steel prep/epoxying for a living for 2 years using angle grinders with wire wheels and chipping hammers on a couple of big 1890s riveted steel boats. It's hard work but you can get every bit of rust off.

I agree. Grind the rust off then slap some red lead paint on it.

Oh, we can't get that any more. 

Anyone know any fish jokes?

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9 minutes ago, Dr Bob said:

I agree. Grind the rust off then slap some red lead paint on it.

Oh, we can't get that any more. 

Anyone know any fish jokes?

Why would you slap paint on the rust you have just ground off. 

 

Waddya reckon to this zinc bonda primer doc? 

2409-PDS-Bonda Rust Primer and Zinc Oct 2018 PDS.pdf

Edited by rusty69
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15 minutes ago, Dr Bob said:

Anyone know any fish jokes?

Nope cannot think of any - O' hang about :

 

What did the fish say when he posted bail? "I'm off the hook!" 

Why don't fish like basketball? Cause they're afraid of the net 

Which fish can perform operations? A Sturgeon! 

What do you call a fish with a tie? soFISHticated 

What do you get when you cross a banker with a fish? A Loan shark!

How do you make an Octopus laugh? With ten-tickles 

Why did the vegan go deep-sea fishing? Just for the halibut! 

What do sea monsters eat? Fish and ships. 

What do you call a fish that needs help with his or her vocals? Autotuna



 

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56 minutes ago, Alan de Enfield said:

Nope cannot think of any - O' hang about :

 

What did the fish say when he posted bail? "I'm off the hook!" 

Why don't fish like basketball? Cause they're afraid of the net 

Which fish can perform operations? A Sturgeon! 

What do you call a fish with a tie? soFISHticated 

What do you get when you cross a banker with a fish? A Loan shark!

How do you make an Octopus laugh? With ten-tickles 

Why did the vegan go deep-sea fishing? Just for the halibut! 

What do sea monsters eat? Fish and ships. 

What do you call a fish that needs help with his or her vocals? Autotuna



 

You missed the one about the tank ...

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1 hour ago, rusty69 said:

 

 

Waddya reckon to this zinc bonda primer doc? 

2409-PDS-Bonda Rust Primer and Zinc Oct 2018 PDS.pdf 94.02 kB · 2 downloads

Just looks like one of the many zinc filled alkyd primers on the market.

Back in the 80's and 90's these were nowhere near the performance of red lead primer and I am sure they will not have improved. I dont know enough about how well they work so maybe some improvement over non zinc. With red lead, there was so much lead powder that there must have been good surface contact with some of it. Unless you are up at the 80-90% metal oxide, I dont see how these coatings can interact with the surface and passivate the metal. Maybe one of our metal experts can say. The coatings are made so the powder (filler, pigment, passivating metal etc) is finely milled down to micron size and then surrounded by the the carrier resin, so not much chance of the metal actually touching the surface.

I'll shoot the gun.

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4 minutes ago, Dr Bob said:

Just looks like one of the many zinc filled alkyd primers on the market.

Back in the 80's and 90's these were nowhere near the performance of red lead primer and I am sure they will not have improved. I dont know enough about how well they work so maybe some improvement over non zinc. With red lead, there was so much lead powder that there must have been good surface contact with some of it. Unless you are up at the 80-90% metal oxide, I dont see how these coatings can interact with the surface and passivate the metal. Maybe one of our metal experts can say. The coatings are made so the powder (filler, pigment, passivating metal etc) is finely milled down to micron size and then surrounded by the the carrier resin, so not much chance of the metal actually touching the surface.

I'll shoot the gun.

Oh.

 

I could grind up some old magnesium or zinc anodes and chuck it in the mix!

Just now, Mike the Boilerman said:

 

Two fish in a tank. 

 

One say to the other, "do you want to drive or shall I?"

 

:giggles:

You must clearly be a newbie here mate. Dr Bob has been coming out with that one twice a week for the last 3 months.

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