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Dudette

Treating rust -steel boat.

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Hi all,

 

Could someone please recommend best products for rust treatment (steel) -rust converter, primer & filler? I will be treating rust around windows.

I was planning to use Red Oxide Primer & Kurust rust converter (both Hammerite brand) - are those any good? As well, which sealant would be suitable to be used together  with the recommended products,please.

 

Thank you very much in advance! :)

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39 minutes ago, Dudette said:

Hi all,

 

Could someone please recommend best products for rust treatment (steel) -rust converter, primer & filler? I will be treating rust around windows.

I was planning to use Red Oxide Primer & Kurust rust converter (both Hammerite brand) - are those any good? As well, which sealant would be suitable to be used together  with the recommended products,please.

 

Thank you very much in advance! :)

Are you any relation to Sparkz ?

 

 

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56 minutes ago, Dudette said:

Hi all,

 

Could someone please recommend best products for rust treatment (steel) -rust converter, primer & filler? I will be treating rust around windows.

I was planning to use Red Oxide Primer & Kurust rust converter (both Hammerite brand) - are those any good? As well, which sealant would be suitable to be used together  with the recommended products,please.

 

Thank you very much in advance! :)

I have had good results from Kurust, but I find Vactan especially good. No rinsing needed, so I find it easy to use. 
Car body flller and a suitable primer should be fine.

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19 minutes ago, haza said:

have a look at rust bullit great stuff

I have heard good things about this product.

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And when the primer has dried get a couple of top coats on, even if its not the final colour or the rust will start up again.

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How deep is the rust and is there significant pitting?

 

Rust converters are a last resort compromise, the ideal is to get right back to bare metal and just use a good primer, I particularly like Bondaprimer. If you wanted to be really flash you could even use a surface tolerant epoxy primer but they tend to come in big tins.

 

Use an angle grinder, probably with a course sanding disc, to get back to bare metal, taking care to not mess up any steel that will be visible. A few small pits can be "dug out" with a grinding stone in a Dremmel.  If you get to bare metal then don't use a rust converter "just in case" because thats daft. If you have just a tiny bit of rust at the bottom of pits you can ignore it, it will be fine, but dab on a bit of converter if you wish.  If you can not get to bare metal then use a rust converter, but you are likely slowing down the rust rather than stopping it.

 

..............Dave

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The big advantage of Vactan is that you don’t have to wash it off. Thereby avoiding adding the one thing that you don’t want on unprotected metal - water. It also functions as a primer. 

 

So so what I do on rusty steel is clean up all the loose stuff, brush Vactan all over the area and wait for it to thoroughly dry. Then undercoat, then topcoat. 

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1 hour ago, Alan de Enfield said:

Are you any relation to Sparkz ?

 

 

This town ain't big enough... etc etc

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9 minutes ago, WotEver said:

The big advantage of Vactan is that you don’t have to wash it off. Thereby avoiding adding the one thing that you don’t want on unprotected metal - water. It also functions as a primer. 

 

So so what I do on rusty steel is clean up all the loose stuff, brush Vactan all over the area and wait for it to thoroughly dry. Then undercoat, then topcoat. 

Likewise. I always do the bottom of the gas locker with it, which is badly abused. I just recoat it with rust stabiliser and rarely bother with paint. I did Waxoyl it once, but not overly impressed. 

Edited by catweasel
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2 minutes ago, Alan de Enfield said:

Maybe leaking windows is a London disease ?

Nope.Took another of ours out today as it was leaking.

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22 minutes ago, Alan de Enfield said:

Maybe leaking windows is a London disease ?

Not a 70's pop song fan then?  ;)

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59 minutes ago, mark99 said:

This town ain't big enough... etc etc

 

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3 hours ago, Alan de Enfield said:

Are you any relation to Sparkz ?

Yes, she's my friend and that's my boat on the photo ?I read through all the comments there - thank you, very helpful! ?

 

 

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3 hours ago, catweasel said:

I have had good results from Kurust, but I find Vactan especially good. No rinsing needed, so I find it easy to use. 
Car body flller and a suitable primer should be fine.

Hi all 

 

Thank you very much for your replies and suggestions - they're very helpful! I'll try to post a couple of photos tomorrow. I really hope that rust isn't too bad under the window edges and I won't be left with holes??

Thanks again! 

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15 hours ago, dmr said:

How deep is the rust and is there significant pitting?

 

..............Dave

 

Hi Dave,

Please see the attached photos :)Hope that helps.

Thanks a lot for your valuable comments & advice :)

 

 

 

rust.jpg.aaddbb65c20dd5888d840743f1d8c7f9.jpg

rust2.jpg

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That doesn't look too bad to me. Its difficult to say from the photos, but if that is the worst of it, it looks to me that no welding will be required, just some elbow grease and product from a tin.

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I would remove that nice piece of wood along the bottom of the last photo. I think there is probably rust behind it. It also looks as if someone has applied silicon. If so so get some silicon eater from Toolstation/Screwfix and when all gone clean with panel wipe degeaser

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16 hours ago, mark99 said:

This town ain't big enough... etc etc

Well, I don't know about that, but I'll grant you it could be Amateur Hour...  

 

 

(Hope that helped, Mark! :D)

 

 

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29 minutes ago, Dudette said:

Hi Dave,

Please see the attached photos :)Hope that helps.

Thanks a lot for your valuable comments & advice :)

 

 

 

 

 

Right, so we are talking about rust on the inside! Often much less severe

 

You will have to take the window out to do a proper job. It does not look too bad, have a go with some emery paper and you just might get back to bare metal relatively easily. If you don't take the window out then your repair will not last forever as the old rust will still propagate under any paint that you apply, This is why its sometimes known as "tin worm".

 

.............Dave

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18 hours ago, Dudette said:

Hi all,

 

Could someone please recommend best products for rust treatment (steel) -rust converter, primer & filler? I will be treating rust around windows.

I was planning to use Red Oxide Primer & Kurust rust converter (both Hammerite brand) - are those any good? As well, which sealant would be suitable to be used together  with the recommended products,please.

 

Thank you very much in advance! :)

Dear all,

 

A massive thank you to all that replied with good tips & advice!! :)Kind request- please do not post unrelated comments or You Tube links here- use Virtual Pub instead :(Thank you.

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