BMC 1500 diesel

[TNLI]

32 minutes ago, StephenA said:

 

Prop anode?  I suspect that we're drifting rapidly away from a BMC install and away from canal boats.

 

Might be shaft anode on my boat, unless I can find one made for the end nut. McDuffs make a whole bunch of prop specific anodes, so I might well find one. still need the electro eliminator jobie.

 

Do canal boats not bother with any type of Magnesium type anode. I suppose fitting a stainless prop, or epoxy painting it might reduce the need ??

 

Back on topic, I can see both the oulet pipe, inlet pipe, (Probably for the gearbox oil cooler), but the outlet hose is far too big for the exhaust elbow fitting. Something weird is going on, as no sign of a pump or bracket in the video clip. The fact the hoses have been cut off really does not help me figure out what kind of plumber was invoved. I hope it's not a member of the McDuff family.

 

Thinking, (always dangerous when it involves 60 year old lifeboats and 60 year old BMC's), about installing a dual cooling circuit, so that it will be easy to just add a keel cooler later. So SS exhaust, SS muffler, SS ouside flapper, (Home made, as I can only find rubber jobs), and a Y valve on the feed that has a lock fitting option. Yep the cooling circuit plot thickens:

STAINLESS STEEL SINGLE TIP PERFORMANCE EXHAUST MUFFLER BACK BOX MFR003 5060483221410 | eBay

 

Edited October 19, 2021 by TNLI

[StephenA]

Just now, TNLI said:

Might be shaft anode on my boat, unless I can find one made for the end nut. McDuffs make a whole bunch of prop specific anodes, so I might well find one. still need the electro eliminator jobie.

 

Do canal boats not bother with any type of Magnesium type anode. I suppose fitting a stainless prop, or epoxy painting it might reduce the need.

 

We have 4 anodes, two at each end, a phosphor bronze prop and a steel shaft (not sure of the exact makeup, I just know it attracts magnets)

[TNLI]

Sacrificial Anodes FAQs – Performance Metals

 

Umm, seems to disagree with this bit of a Harry post:

Zinc = Seawater

Mag = Fresh water

Aluminimum = Brackish water.

Edited 5 hours ago by Alan de Enfield

 

Alas an Alloy anode on an Alloy boat might help, but not as well as the real McCoy McDuff Zinc jobies.

 

PS: Arrr, I might have got it wrong, as it's not nomal Aluminium, but a mixed version:

 

Q. How can Navalloy™ (aluminum) anodes protect aluminum outdrives?

A. Because the Navalloy™, aluminum anode is a combination of aluminum, zinc and indium. It is like comparing steel and stainless steel - they have very different properties. The zinc and indium make the metal more active and prevent the anode from forming an oxide coating.

Edited October 19, 2021 by TNLI

[Tony Brooks]

9 hours ago, TNLI said:

Might be shaft anode on my boat, unless I can find one made for the end nut. McDuffs make a whole bunch of prop specific anodes, so I might well find one. still need the electro eliminator jobie.

 

Do canal boats not bother with any type of Magnesium type anode. I suppose fitting a stainless prop, or epoxy painting it might reduce the need ??

 

Back on topic, I can see both the oulet pipe, inlet pipe, (Probably for the gearbox oil cooler), but the outlet hose is far too big for the exhaust elbow fitting. Something weird is going on, as no sign of a pump or bracket in the video clip. The fact the hoses have been cut off really does not help me figure out what kind of plumber was invoved. I hope it's not a member of the McDuff family.

 

Thinking, (always dangerous when it involves 60 year old lifeboats and 60 year old BMC's), about installing a dual cooling circuit, so that it will be easy to just add a keel cooler later. So SS exhaust, SS muffler, SS ouside flapper, (Home made, as I can only find rubber jobs), and a Y valve on the feed that has a lock fitting option. Yep the cooling circuit plot thickens:

STAINLESS STEEL SINGLE TIP PERFORMANCE EXHAUST MUFFLER BACK BOX MFR003 5060483221410 | eBay

 

 

Why are you looking at vehicle parts for a boat? It is likely to have a small drain hole in the case that may leak fumes into the boa with a dry exhaust or water on a wet exhaust.

 

You need to be very clear about what type of cooling and exhaust system you intend to fit before anyone can tell you where the inlet and outlet pipes are. There may be one pair or two pairs. You should know this now you have links to my site than goes some way to explaining cooling systems and I have explained it to you before (twice I think). Its a Fanken engine and I would be walking away.

[Alan de Enfield]

9 hours ago, TNLI said:

Might be shaft anode on my boat, unless I can find one made for the end nut. McDuffs make a whole bunch of prop specific anodes,

Do canal boats not bother with any type of Magnesium type anode. I suppose fitting a stainless prop, or epoxy painting it might reduce the need ??

 

I would say the majority do not, but we certianly do.

We had Mag anodes when we were based on the River Trent, and changed to Zincs when we 'went to sea'.

 

 

 

[Tony Brooks]

10 hours ago, TNLI said:

 

Do canal boats not bother with any type of Magnesium type anode. I suppose fitting a stainless prop, or epoxy painting it might reduce the need ??

 

 

I am now convinced that you have all but zero experience of UK fresh water inland boating. Corrosion of stainless steel  shafts and bronze propellers is a non-issue so we don't waste money on shaft anodes and such like. Even mild steel shafts seem to last well enough. It must be 55 years or more since I saw a yellow metal shaft in a boat.

 

Even outboards did not seem to suffer too much although we put them into store every winter (day boats) but we did find the small internal waterways would fur up now and again.

 

We tend not to use underwater skin fittings apart from on wooden, GRP and imported steel cruisers that were designed for more than inland work. Narrowboats tend to just have a length of steel pipe welded into the hull so no dissimilar metals to cause corrosion there. When we get an inland steel boat into salt water like Liverpool docks it is interesting to see the magnesium  anodes fizzing and coating them selves with salt/lime scale.

 

 

[TNLI]

TB, it's the prop that suffers, not the shaft, even in salt water. Many canal boats go into brackish water in the Thames and on visits to the tidal section of rivers. There is no need for any canal fan to restrict their cruising to fresh water only, so they should know where to fit anodes, and what type of material should be used. There really is no reason to go harking on about my boat being too close to the sea at present, cos I might take her back to where the last owner let her sink and that was the Thames. No sign of any anodes at all when salvaged. 

 

TB, a vehicle exhaust part gets just as much salt water on it as some open boats, The only difference is the label. If I used a real 316S stainless steel box, rather than a 314, (Don't know which type of stainless steel it is, but it's too cheap to be 316), The flexible hoe I found on Fleabay is kind of pricey, but there is a tuning shop with stainlees parts in Bournemouth that has flexible stainless that might be cheaper.

 

Offending non marine muffler:

STAINLESS STEEL SINGLE TIP PERFORMANCE EXHAUST MUFFLER BACK BOX MFR003 5060483221410 | eBay

 

I like flappers, so this one is one possibility, as it matches my present stainless outlet:

63.5mm 2.5" Stainless Rain Flap Cover Exhaust Stack Pipe Protector Farm Tractor | eBay

 

Flexible hose requirement is interesting, as I will need 2, the link is for 1.5m, and the second one will need to be much shorter, and could just be a section of stainless pipe:

Exhaust Pipe Stainless Steel Polylock Flexible Tube With Collars Any Size | eBay

 

 

Edited October 20, 2021 by TNLI

[Tony Brooks]

4 minutes ago, TNLI said:

TB, it's the prop that suffers, not the shaft, even in salt water. Many canal boats go into brackish water in the Thames and on visits to the tidal section of rivers. There is no need for any canal fan to restrict their cruising to fresh water only, so they should know where to fit anodes, and what type of material should be used. There really is no reason to go harking on about my boat being too close to the sea at present, cos I might take her back to where the last owner let her sink and that was the Thames. No sign of any anodes at all when salvaged. 

 

 

 

I repeat, for the vast majority of canal boats such corrosion is not an issue. By and large they only use brackish waters for a day or so during transit.

 

Such corrosion might be a problem on an aluminium prop but I have yet to see one on an inboard narrow boat or inland cruiser. The props are usual bronze where they would, if in electrical contact corrode the hull but the stern hull anodes are usually close enough to minimise that.

 

I repeat the usual four or more large hull anodes do the job and some say they make no difference. In fact 4 x 2.5kg magnesium anodes tend to last years, including in the brackish water around the salt towns. I think mine lasted 15 years but in the south midlands with cruises around the salt town area, up the tidal Trent, into Liverpool docks (5  days) and the tidal Thames.

 

You are once again making a mountain out of a molehill for inland boaters. Things are different if the boat is permanently is salt water.

[StephenA]

5 hours ago, Tony Brooks said:

 

I repeat, for the vast majority of canal boats such corrosion is not an issue. By and large they only use brackish waters for a day or so during transit.

 

Such corrosion might be a problem on an aluminium prop but I have yet to see one on an inboard narrow boat or inland cruiser. The props are usual bronze where they would, if in electrical contact corrode the hull but the stern hull anodes are usually close enough to minimise that.

 

I repeat the usual four or more large hull anodes do the job and some say they make no difference. In fact 4 x 2.5kg magnesium anodes tend to last years, including in the brackish water around the salt towns. I think mine lasted 15 years but in the south midlands with cruises around the salt town area, up the tidal Trent, into Liverpool docks (5  days) and the tidal Thames.

 

You are once again making a mountain out of a molehill for inland boaters. Things are different if the boat is permanently is salt water.

 

We've got through 3 sets of anodes since 1986, and when they've been replaced there has still been some of the old anode left.

 

We've done quite a few tidal runs over the years and a trip down into Liverpool docks. The prop, apart from having few dents taken out of it about 15 years ago, is in perfect condition and we've been using the same prop shaft since 1988 - it now needs replacing not because of corrosion but because it's badly worn.

 

[TNLI]

41 minutes ago, StephenA said:

 

We've got through 3 sets of anodes since 1986, and when they've been replaced there has still been some of the old anode left.

 

We've done quite a few tidal runs over the years and a trip down into Liverpool docks. The prop, apart from having few dents taken out of it about 15 years ago, is in perfect condition and we've been using the same prop shaft since 1988 - it now needs replacing not because of corrosion but because it's badly worn.

 

Wow, it takes a lot of hours to wear out a prop shaft, in fact I don't remember anyone having an issue with a cutlass bearing or stuffing box that got enough fine sand in it to wear out a shaft. Stainlees steel does suffer from crevice corrosion when it is in an O2 free environment like the inside of a well greased stuffing box tube. 

  Dents are a fact of life if you do a lot of motoring. My own prop is a little rough along its leading edges and has one ding, but no where near bad enough to require refinishing.

The only props I've seen that were marked, had been slightly damaged by a loose clamp on type shaft anode rattling around. Probably fitted by a diver who was running low on air!

Edited October 20, 2021 by TNLI

[StephenA]

42 minutes ago, TNLI said:

Wow, it takes a lot of hours to wear out a prop shaft, in fact I don't remember anyone having an issue with a cutlass bearing or stuffing box that got enough fine sand in it to wear out a shaft. Stainlees steel does suffer from crevice corrosion when it is in an O2 free environment like the inside of a well greased stuffing box tube. 

  Dents are a fact of life if you do a lot of motoring. My own prop is a little rough along its leading edges and has one ding, but no where near bad enough to require refinishing.

The only props I've seen that were marked, had been slightly damaged by a loose clamp on type shaft anode rattling around. Probably fitted by a diver who was running low on air!

 

We were regularly doing summer holidays covering 500-600 miles plus a few other holidays a year, now we're down to 250-400 miles per year.

 

Its just worn round the point where the stuffing sits, suspect some of that is down to us keeping the boat in thin liquid mud (The Shroppie)

[TNLI]

My very last cruise:

 

SAILING -              HYBRID  PILOT  SERVICES  LTD (hybridpilotservices.com)

 

Note: that's a very old site designed by me to decoy sales type enquiries that did not go to a reputable main aviation related company due to dubious ramping methods that boost the ranking to near the top of the Google Crawler programs list. Google changed tack, and delisted my site for a few years. It was game over a few months before that as Hybrid Air Vehicles in the UK, and Northrop Grumman in the US won the US Army LEMV contract. I got the flight test and operating contract, but left just before the first crash. 

 

Edited October 20, 2021 by TNLI

[TNLI]

On 12/03/2019 at 10:17, les trickett said:

Please can anyone identify my engine.

It has a tag fitted to the block

15V/160B/D10033

AND IN CASTING 1500D

AND A3J8.

I require a full gasket kit.

Also coming out of the front side inspection cover there is a metal tube.

What is it for

Umm, got the same question, so just in case some BMC fan has a copy or download of the engine ID system, here are my main block numbers:

 

Stbd side. (HP pump):  JAM 1210   (I think the 1210 is the engine number, but not sure).

 

Port side, (Air filter side): 1500D  and  A15D6 and 231 near alternator.  Nothing on the gearbox plate.

 

The A15D one is interesting, as I'm hoping that means I have a 1.5 diesel and they don't seem to have the dreaded unobtainium torsional vibration damper, rather than a normal crank pulley bearing. Might have that part in reverse though, as it does say 1500D on the other side.