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BMC 1500 diesel


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Check oil pump for wear, recons are available.

Check thermostat works.

Check drive plate.

Inspect water pump.

Inspect core plugs for corrosion.

Replace injector top hats (shields)  and all copper washers

Beg, buy, borrow 5/8" AF crow foot spanner/socket.

 

Don't skim the head unless it is obviously warped, unlikely.

Use a smear of Blue Hylomar compound around all waterway ports in the head and block, both sides of the gasket.

Clean and oil all threads that are to be torqued especially head nuts.

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Dear Sir.

I am really grateful for your opinion. 

I wished you lived near rhyl north Wales.

The problem I have is

a) my experience on this engine

b) cost.

Bill has thrown away literally hundreds of pounds paying people who have done nothing..

The last chap was taking £50 A week for nearly 3 months.

I buggered them off .

I managed to get the engine running sweetly enough.

It has had the injectors done.

Engine and water flush put through it new filters oil etc.

I do not feel competent enough to tackle big end bearings etc. New starter.

 

He then went fishing with his son and when they left it they did not leave bilge pump switched on.

The new starter has had to be refurbished as it ended up under water.

My services are free of charge and I am teaching myself with the aid of the manual and online.

Unfortunately I have retired due to ill health and can only do so much.

Bill is 72 had major open heart surgery 2 years ago.

He has only managed to get 6 trips out in 2 years after spending a fortune.

It's not fair.

All the best

Les

 

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23 minutes ago, les trickett said:

Dear Sir.

I am really grateful for your opinion. 

I wished you lived near rhyl north Wales.

The problem I have is

a) my experience on this engine

b) cost.

Bill has thrown away literally hundreds of pounds paying people who have done nothing..

The last chap was taking £50 A week for nearly 3 months.

I buggered them off .

I managed to get the engine running sweetly enough.

It has had the injectors done.

Engine and water flush put through it new filters oil etc.

I do not feel competent enough to tackle big end bearings etc. New starter.

 

He then went fishing with his son and when they left it they did not leave bilge pump switched on.

The new starter has had to be refurbished as it ended up under water.

My services are free of charge and I am teaching myself with the aid of the manual and online.

Unfortunately I have retired due to ill health and can only do so much.

Bill is 72 had major open heart surgery 2 years ago.

He has only managed to get 6 trips out in 2 years after spending a fortune.

It's not fair.

All the best

Les

 

A story too often repeated I'm sad to say.

 

If the engine starts easily, does not knock or smoke excessively, has no serious leaks and does not overheat, I would leave it as is.

These are tough old units, its lasted this long, it should go on a lot longer.

 

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This sounds like a salt water boat new so if the starter was submerged it is that much worse. What are the symptoms of a problem starter. If its just "its been full of sea water" then I think I would submerge it  many times in tap water, stand it on the pinion end in a warm place overnight and then put in a very low oven for 24 hours. If it is now unreliable then its probably easier to take it off and get it overhauled rather than try to strip it yourself although once you have the knack of lodging the brush springs on the  side of the brushes for reassembly (if its that type of motor) its easy enough. There are only two problems.

 

1. On some installations one starter bolt is a pig, removing the oil filter assembly and using a long socket extension sorts that.

2. Very, very early 1.5Ds had a two bolt fixing starter. If yours is one of these then unless it can be overhauled I fear the engine will need changing.

 

You gave me the impression that you had a fair idea about what you are doing and only wanted to do certain things. Although I agree with Sam and BEngo that good practice dictates the lists if the engine is out, as I think it would have to be to do the sump gasket, you are not doing it on a professional, paid for,  basis so best practice does not really come into it. Also, I am sorry to say, it is very likely that the owner will never get the advantage of a full check and overhaul so I do not think you need to do everything on those lists as long as the engine is running well enough. Without seeing the engine I can't know what is vital and what is not but as long as you have drained and flushed the gearbox and engine oils a few times to purge any water that got into it and done the things we listed right at the start of this topic I think you can ignore the rest as long as Bill   can be made to fully understand it is not a professional job and the long term reliability MIGHT be in question.

 

Edited by Tony Brooks
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Just one question - how long did they leave the boat with the bilge pump off before the starter motor was under water? If it was less than a few weeks then the reason for so much water ingress really needs attending to. 

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13 minutes ago, les trickett said:

It was quite a few weeks the back of the boat is open to the elements and we had quite a few storms in hothead.

The start is sat right down in the bilges 

Fair enough :)

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I think that was supposed to be Holyhead?

 

If the water only covered the starter motor it won't have got into the engine, the lowest hole is the side cover breather and a tiny hole in the fuel pump body.

But it may have got into the gearbox, worth a check to see if the oil is milky when its been running.

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17 minutes ago, les trickett said:

It was quite a few weeks the back of the boat is open to the elements and we had quite a few storms in hothead.

The start is sat right down in the bilges 

It is true that some 1.5s had the starter solenoid hanging vertically down below the motor but later end brackets could be fitted to turn the solenoid to about10 o'clock. If you have the former type maybe talk to a local specialist to see if they can change the end bracket to lift the solenoid clear of the bilge

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14 minutes ago, les trickett said:

We have one problem the vertical filter  is okay but the horizontal one will not tighten up.

It was loose when I can e to it.

Will page be okay or do I need to  helicoil it

15525689978314286530780721279703.jpg  

 

 

Not being funny but who or what is Will page?

 

If you are talking about the vertical hexagon just above the right angle in the oil gallery then it is the oil jet and it will have oil pump pressure behind it so I think it will need a helicoil if the thread is stripped in the block. Take care, I have a very faint memory of the thread being finer than normal UNF.

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Many thanks for all your input.

Taking off side covers and sump the engine looks nice and clean . Oil getting to all the important parts.

Think there maybe a little bit escaping through the valves but it is not smoking does a bit on start up but settles down.

Hopefully my friend is lucky with this engine.

He deserves a bit of luck after all the wide  boys that have taken him for a ride.

Boating is not my thing but if it makes him happy I will do the steering while he does the fishing

  • Greenie 1
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  • 2 years later...

Anyone know where to find the layout of the BMC 1.5 engine mounts. I'm installing a Bukh 24 onto engine beams and mounts that were supporting a well broken and siezed BMC 1.5, so it would help me figure out which size conversion plates I need as the mounts will not fit.

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23 minutes ago, TNLI said:

Anyone know where to find the layout of the BMC 1.5 engine mounts. I'm installing a Bukh 24 onto engine beams and mounts that were supporting a well broken and siezed BMC 1.5, so it would help me figure out which size conversion plates I need as the mounts will not fit.

 

Not much help, but that will depend upon who marnised the BMC and when they did it.

 

If it was Thorneycroft that you were keeping on about, perhaps someone with a Thorneycroft marinised 1.5 can measure theirs. However I think your engine may be on wooden beds and they any need distance pieces made to raise the height or pieces cut out of them to drop the engine so the shaft will line up. It's the shaft alignment that is important so I would drop the engine roughly into place,  on packing from the hull if the beds are too far apart, so you can take direct measurements.

 

 

Edited by Tony Brooks
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  • 2 months later...

Just purchased a fully restored BMC 1500 (Captain ), but it has a Borg Warner hydraulic gearbox that is going to be a PITA in terms of installation (Extra pair of mounts and longer). The question I have is how difficult would it be to change the gearbox to a manual job, and anyone know where I might find an instrument panel ??

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1 hour ago, TNLI said:

Just purchased a fully restored BMC 1500 (Captain ), but it has a Borg Warner hydraulic gearbox that is going to be a PITA in terms of installation (Extra pair of mounts and longer). The question I have is how difficult would it be to change the gearbox to a manual job, and anyone know where I might find an instrument panel ??

 

I think the front  mounting bolt holes on Velvetdrives are a standard SAE configuration and if so, another box should be a straight bolt on job. However, I have never seen a Velvetdrive with extra mounts on a 1.5, even the ones with the reduction box on the back, but I have seen illustrations with them. Maybe try to find out why they are used and if they are needed in your application.

 

As far as an instrument panel is concerned, unless you know what standard your senders are built to (European or US), you will need to buy the instrument kits, so you may as well make your own. Not difficult if you use thick coloured perspex, aluminium, or "Formica" faced ply. You will need a 52mm/2" hole saw and suitable drills for the warning lamps and switch apertures.

 

Edited to add: Calcutt may sell you a branded one with or without gauges, lamps and switches.

 

Edited again to add: Chertsey Meads Marine seem to deal in second hand engines, so they may have one.

 

 

Edited by Tony Brooks
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52 minutes ago, Tony Brooks said:

However, I have never seen a Velvetdrive with extra mounts on a 1.5, even the ones with the reduction box on the back,

 

I have a old Velvetdrive in my garage that came off a BMC 1.5, complete with bell housing. I was only looking at it yesterday and noting that the two rear engine mounting feet were on the bell housing, not the engine or gearbox. 

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Thanks for that reply and another question I have is about the 4 main engine mounts, as they are different to the ones that were on the previous 1500. The new pre abused ones just have a single long bolt around a circular rubber damper, and they are angled outwards slightly. The question I have is are the standard BMC look alike mounts for sale from such reputable folks as Fleabay for 35 quid each, going to fit in the same hole in an upright manner, or am I looking at 4 adapter plates ??

 

Alas when I bought this reconditioned BMC it was far too busy to head North to inspect it. The pictures and video clip were good, but I failed to notice that fitting it might not be so easy, as I could not see the mounts in any of the pictures.

Also can you remind me if the Borg warner Velvet drive was the only type of hydraulic box fitted, as I only have the word of the chap that rebuilt it, no rame plate etc. Also can you think of any complications if I decide to use the existing gearbox, rather than change it for a manual one, like wrong ratio, (It was fitted to a canal bopat) ??

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15 minutes ago, MtB said:

 

I have a old Velvetdrive in my garage that came off a BMC 1.5, complete with bell housing. I was only looking at it yesterday and noting that the two rear engine mounting feet were on the bell housing, not the engine or gearbox. 

Yes, you are probably right, the important complication is I now have 6 mounts, not 4, and the 4 front ones are at an angle. I don't have the tools or expert shaft alingnement skills to install this new preabused BMC, and the engineers in the local area that do are all very busy, and not interested in complex engine installation tasks, so I've listed the engone on Fleabay for a small earner, just in case I'm barking up the wrong tree. 

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I assume there is a separate thrust block on the tail shaft and a suitable flex drive unit.

 

Use the two front mounts on the engine and Pick any other two of the mounts at the  corners of a rectangle and use those.   Measure the weight on each mount (with cheapo  bathroom scales).  The back two may be heavier.  Buy engine mounts to suit the weight on each foot. Fit the engine and box on four mounts. Line up using the 4 mounting centre bolts.

 

Forget the remaining two mounting feet except to check that they are not touching anything.

N

 

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7 minutes ago, BEngo said:

I assume there is a separate thrust block on the tail shaft and a suitable flex drive unit.

 

Use the two front mounts on the engine and Pick any other two of the mounts at the  corners of a rectangle and use those.   Measure the weight on each mount (with cheapo  bathroom scales).  The back two may be heavier.  Buy engine mounts to suit the weight on each foot. Fit the engine and box on four mounts. Line up using the 4 mounting centre bolts.

 

Forget the remaining two mounting feet except to check that they are not touching anything.

N

 

Thanks, but I'm not inclned to leave a pair of mounts unused, as my lifeboat will eventually be subject to a serious survey, and if Mr morris fitted 6 mounts, they will be very interested in why only 4 are in use. The original BMC did not have a flexible coupling, although I do plan to fit one. The Vetus one is kind of pricey, so are the other types OK, or do they either not work, rust or fall apart ??

 

Anyone in the Poole - Bournemouth area know a good marine engineer who likes BMC diesels and difficult installation tasks, as I'm having no luck at all at present. I've tried all the normal marine companies with a very negative response so far ??

Edited by TNLI
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One final question I have about my new pre abused BMC 1500 with its 6 mounts and Borg Warner box, is can anyone think of any other issues, like the wrong direction of spin, or strange gearbox ratio, (No idea if the normal manual box was a 1:1 or 2:1). I think I can make a fairly cheap instrument panel and eventually find a marine engineer to install it, but the last thing I need is to find the prop spins in the wrong direction, or has an odd ratio ??

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32 minutes ago, TNLI said:

........last thing I need is to find the prop spins in the wrong direction, or has an odd ratio ??

 

It really doesn't matter which way it turns as long as the prop, the gearbox and the engine are all matched for rotation.

 

I have one engine / gearbox / prop that spins 'left handed' and one engine / gearbox / prop that spins right handed (both in the same boat)

 

 

21-10-19e.jpg

Edited by Alan de Enfield
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