Restoring flat/dull paintwork

[larrysanders]

I'm trying to avoid/delay a full re-paint.  Any suggestions to spruce up some flat paintwork?  Are there any specific oils, varnishes or polishes that's best for this job?

 

Many thanks. 

[matty40s]

dont use T-cut.

Good carnuba polish.

Craftsmaster one is good but expensive

[Lysander]

Tried all that - Autoglym, carnauba wax... It was hard work and looked great for about three weeks before we were back where we started. Even tried baby oil! Gave up in the end.

[Movin' on]

It can be done - one of the members here is something of a genius at it and he did my previous boat last year - I'm sure he will comment in due course

Edited March 3, 2019 by Halsey

[WotEver]

1 hour ago, Lysander said:

It was hard work and looked great for about three weeks before we were back where we started.

Then it wasn’t protected. Polish is abrasive and gets a lovely shine onto old paint but if you want to keep it like that then you’ll have to regularly wax it to protect it. If unwaxed then it’ll just go dull again in no time. 

[Lysander]

2 hours ago, WotEver said:

Then it wasn’t protected. Polish is abrasive and gets a lovely shine onto old paint but if you want to keep it like that then you’ll have to regularly wax it to protect it. If unwaxed then it’ll just go dull again in no time. 

I thought the carnauba wax would do that but didn't seem to help. Ended up repainting - a different colour!

 

[WotEver]

8 hours ago, Lysander said:

I thought the carnauba wax would do that but didn't seem to help.

It would, but once the paint is UV damaged and chalky then you have to keep waxing it on a regular basis to keep up the shine. 

[BEngo]

To get the shine back use Farecla G3 on a blue sponge mop in a sander polisher at low speed.  Follow with a good car polish like Turtle wax, Autoglym or Craftmaster on a red sponge.

 

Then wax it by hand with Simoniz or other hard paste carnauba wax.  Re wax after about 3 months, depending on weather.

 

Hard work!

N

[larrysanders]

Thanks for the help.  !   

[mark99]

One way is to flat down (fine wire wool or cutting paste), panel wipe and put on Alkyd (uV resistant) varnish as in the Craftmaster brand varnish.

 

It's ok for bits and pieces not the whole bote.

 

I just done mine <signwriting, scumbling, bow stripe plus hatches, lids, rear doors etc which had red/maroon which fades badly in UV/IR> today. Once done, you have to recoat with same every couple or 2/3 of years.

 

Note my red handrails are too far gone (too many knocks and rust spots) so will be repainted next year.

 

 

 

 

On 04/03/2019 at 09:03, BEngo said:

To get the shine back use Farecla G3 on a blue sponge mop in a sander polisher at low speed.  Follow with a good car polish like Turtle wax, Autoglym or Craftmaster on a red sponge.

 

Then wax it by hand with Simoniz or other hard paste carnauba wax.  Re wax after about 3 months, depending on weather.

 

Hard work!

N

 

Not with a random orbital polisher machine it's not. 

Edited March 15, 2019 by mark99

[Movin' on]

10 hours ago, mark99 said:

One way is to flat down (fine wire wool or cutting paste), panel wipe and put on Alkyd (uV resistant) varnish as in the Craftmaster brand varnish.

 

It's ok for bits and pieces not the whole bote.

 

I just done mine <signwriting, scumbling, bow stripe plus hatches, lids, rear doors etc which had red/maroon which fades badly in UV/IR> today. Once done, you have to recoat with same every couple or 2/3 of years.

 

Note my red handrails are too far gone (too many knocks and rust spots) so will be repainted next year.

 

 

 

 

 

Not with a random orbital polisher machine it's not. 

Looks great - possibly better than Bruv's!?

On ‎04‎/‎03‎/‎2019 at 09:03, BEngo said:

To get the shine back use Farecla G3 on a blue sponge mop in a sander polisher at low speed.  Follow with a good car polish like Turtle wax, Autoglym or Craftmaster on a red sponge.

 

Then wax it by hand with Simoniz or other hard paste carnauba wax.  Re wax after about 3 months, depending on weather.

 

Hard work!

N

That's what I've done in the past - Farecla is good stuff

[GRLMK38]

On 03/03/2019 at 21:03, Halsey said:

It can be done - one of the members here is something of a genius at it and he did my previous boat last year - I'm sure he will comment in due course

Thanks J...

 

A DA polisher with foam pads is your friend and will do the hard work for you.  Do not confuse a DA with an angle grinder fitted with a polishing mop.  The latter could wreck your paint in seconds if used incorrectly.  A DA is much more forgiving.  You will need a 240v AC supply.

 

Most automotive products are suitable for machine application (and uses less product than hand polishing) but anything with silicone should be avoided if there is likely to be any repainting done in the future.   Products such as Meguiars "105" and "205" will remove the oxidation and start the polishing process, UV sealants may help and a good quality carnauba wax is essential.  The Craftmaster Polish is a good option, it seems to last 2-3 months between applications.  Don't forget to wash the paintwork before any polishing is done and regular washing will keep the paint free from bird lime, acid rain, dirt and dust etc.  The Craftmaster Shampoo is as good as any I have seen.  Craftmaster products can be bought directly online or at Bottom Lock Chandlery in Braunston if you are in the area.

 

Autoglym Super Polish contains silicone and is best avoided in my opinion.

 

If you are not experienced with a DA polisher, there are plenty of instructional videos on YouTube.  It's worth practicing on a discrete panel first but the technique is fairly easy to pick up.  Allow about 5 hours per side (62ft), assuming you are applying 4 layers.  You will also need plenty of clean microfibre cloths for product removal and final polishing.

 

Good luck!

 

[mark99]

I used an 18v battery foam pad random action polisher last year with good results. Ryobi brand. This was to apply and mop off carnuba wax after a good wash down rinse and leather with carnuba wash.  Plus final finish via clean microfibre rags. This was on the main body of the blue bote sides as below. Need lots of spare polish mops to fix to foam rotator (apply and polish off). Takes the hard shoulder work out of it.

 

Interesting I only put one coat wax on. Wonder if more coats would be better GRLMK38?

 

I got some funny looks on the busy towpaths but sod em.

 

Auriga looked good when we picked it up. It will be getting more carnuba wax soon.

 

Here are the blue sides yesterday - the rubbing strake to gunnel having been renewed with Coflex yestrday hence the image- the blue sides were washed and waxed with polish mop in Autumn one coat Canuba- not washed since.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited March 17, 2019 by mark99

[mark99]

Here is the tool

 

https://www.direct-powertools.co.uk/PBSCProduct.asp?ItmID=18758879&AccID=103701&PGFLngID=1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIt4_o7PyJ4QIV6pPtCh3wpglzEAQYASABEgJZC_D_BwE

 

Beware like the joke the unit is cheap but the batteries expensive!

Edited March 17, 2019 by mark99

[Flyboy]

On 03/03/2019 at 19:23, larrysanders said:

I'm trying to avoid/delay a full re-paint.  Any suggestions to spruce up some flat paintwork?  Are there any specific oils, varnishes or polishes that's best for this job?

 

Many thanks. 

Owertrol Polytrol works well.

[WotEver]

1 hour ago, Flyboy said:

Owertrol Polytrol works well.

Varying reports of its efficaciousness on here. I found that it didn’t last very long on the various plastic bits I tried it on (caravan Alko tow hitch, black car bumper), but I’ve not tried it on paint. 

 

And its Owatrol Polytrol for anyone who wants to investigate. 

[mark99]

4 minutes ago, WotEver said:

Varying reports of its efficaciousness on here. I found that it didn’t last very long on the various plastic bits I tried it on (caravan Alko tow hitch, black car bumper), but I’ve not tried it on paint. 

 

And its Owatrol Polytrol for anyone who wants to investigate. 

I must admit I thought it was snake oil or a type of setting baby oil. Would like to be proved wrong but never used it. Not sure classic car restorers would endorse it?  They tend to be bleeding edge type users.

Edited March 17, 2019 by mark99

[WotEver]

2 minutes ago, mark99 said:

I must admit I thought it was snake oil or a type of setting baby oil. Would like to be proved wrong. Not sure classic car restorers would endorse it? 

I’m quite sure no car restorer would endorse anything that covered the paintwork. Polytrol is after all just a ‘bodge’ product. Oil your paintwork and it’ll shine and the depth will return, but only until the oil goes dull.