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12v fridges


curlass24

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Hello,

 

Looking for a 12v fridge with a  freezer compartment for our narrow boat. Have seen a few from shoreline and waeco...

 

Any recommendations for the best option / brand? We are continuous cruising so run off solar with 4 110 amp leisure batteries.

 

Cheers!

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35 minutes ago, curlass24 said:

Hello,

 

Looking for a 12v fridge with a  freezer compartment for our narrow boat. Have seen a few from shoreline and waeco...

 

Any recommendations for the best option / brand? We are continuous cruising so run off solar with 4 110 amp leisure batteries.

 

Cheers!

 

I have a Waeco.

uses about 30Ah per day so pretty much needs a 110Ah battery to itself (unless you want to run it much below the recommended 50% SoC)

 

Works well as long as you use heavy enough cable for the install (READ THE Manual)

If the cable is too small (thin) then it will not freeze unless the engine is running) It would freeze up nicely during the day, but by morning there was a puddle of water in the bottom of the fridge and everything was de-frosted.

 

NOTE : this is not unique to Waeco it relates to all fridges.

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Just now, curlass24 said:

ok thanks looking at the crx 80.

 

Are they simple to connect up? I have a double + and double - free in the place for it, left by the previous owner

That's the one I have.

 

What size is the cable (cross sectional area f the copper NOT outside diameter) ?

Is their sufficient room above and behind for ventilation and air circulation - they get quite hot.

 

What do you mean by 'double' cables ? ( two thin ones ?- if so I would not recommend using them, if one snaps / disconnects you end up pulling a lot of current down one thin cable. It is very poor practice and potentially dangerous)

 

Connection is simple.

Just put the wires in the terminals marked + & -

Make sure the cables are fused appropriately.

Ensure the cables go thru' a switch.

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11 minutes ago, Alan de Enfield said:

Make sure the cables are fused appropriately.

Ensure the cables go thru' a switch.

Personally I wouldn’t fit a switch. It’s just three more connections to go wrong. You can isolate it any time just by removing the fuse. 

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Check the spec of the fridge carefully.  Shoreline for instance just buy in a load of fridges, chuck out the 230V compressor and fit a good 12V one.  However the base fridge could be anything from a 2* ice box to a 4* box.  Mine is a shoreline 4* and it does take the icebox down to -16 to -19 deg.C.  It uses about 25 - 30 amphours per day, a bit more in hot weather.

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We got a new Shoreline fridge/freezer last year. tho' I think they are expensive for what they are, but needs must. 

 

The fridge freezer is a bit of pain at floor level, you've to get on the floor to get to the back of the shelving because of the freezer hiding what's 'there'. 

 

This was solved when we refitted the galley, we organised the fridge/freezer to be at waist level - one of the best things we did.

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4 minutes ago, Jennifer McM said:

We got a new Shoreline fridge/freezer last year. tho' I think they are expensive for what they are, but needs must. 

 

The fridge freezer is a bit of pain at floor level, you've to get on the floor to get to the back of the shelving because of the freezer hiding what's 'there'. 

 

This was solved when we refitted the galley, we organised the fridge/freezer to be at waist level - one of the best things we did.

You could have bought a first rate mains fridge for 150 quid, lots of sizes and choices and run it through an inverter. Running costs re similar or just a tad more than 12 volt. I sold both my 12 volt fridge and 12 volt freezer and went all mains again on this boat as I have with others and I never regret it. You can buy a good quality inverter with the change from the rip off cost of 12 volt units. I have checked mu useage against the 12volt units that were fitted and on this boat its near as damn it the same as when I had 12 volt.

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17 minutes ago, mrsmelly said:

You could have bought a first rate mains fridge for 150 quid, lots of sizes and choices and run it through an inverter. Running costs re similar or just a tad more than 12 volt. I sold both my 12 volt fridge and 12 volt freezer and went all mains again on this boat as I have with others and I never regret it. You can buy a good quality inverter with the change from the rip off cost of 12 volt units. I have checked mu useage against the 12volt units that were fitted and on this boat its near as damn it the same as when I had 12 volt.

Yes, I've seen you've mentioned this before, and it piqued my interest then.

 

In the depth of winter when there's no solar, in the main (unless we're not moored near other boats) we spark up the engine to top up the batteries in the evening, turning off the engine before 8pm, and turning on the engine after 8am. During the nighttime, our batteries drop from say 12.8 to 12.2 before we start the engine again after 8am. If we'd left the Victron 3kw sinewave inverter on, the batteries might not cope.

 

Perhaps it's our setup, though we only use the 12v TV, 12v fridge/freezer, 3 or 4 LED lights, and charging up a laptop through 12v. We've got 4 x 110 domestic batteries.

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Just now, Jennifer McM said:

Yes, I've seen you've mentioned this before, and it piqued my interest then.

 

In the depth of winter when there's no solar, in the main (unless we're not moored near other boats) we spark up the engine to top up the batteries in the evening, turning off the engine before 8pm, and turning on the engine after 8am. During the nighttime, our batteries drop from say 12.8 to 12.2 before we start the engine again after 8am. If we'd left the Victron 3kw sinewave inverter on, the batteries might not cope.

 

Perhaps it's our setup, though we only use the 12v TV, 12v fridge/freezer, 3 or 4 LED lights, and charging up a laptop through 12v. We've got 4 x 110 domestic batteries.

What does the victron use when switched on but powering nothing? My inverter sits drawing 0.3 of an amp. That could be the difference. I too have 4 domestics and it works very well for us but no two peoples life styles are the same innitt.

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6 minutes ago, mrsmelly said:

What does the victron use when switched on but powering nothing? My inverter sits drawing 0.3 of an amp. That could be the difference. I too have 4 domestics and it works very well for us but no two peoples life styles are the same innitt.

I don't know that answer at the moment, tomorrow we'll turn off switches, leaving just the inverter on to get a reading. Thanks :) 

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We recently had to change our 12v fridge. We opted for the Waeco fridge with freezer compartment and have to say we have been very impressed with it.

 

It uses far less power than the previous Engel fridge and is much quieter. We can hardly hear the compressor running even though it is mounted next to the bedroom.

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14 hours ago, mrsmelly said:

What does the victron use when switched on but powering nothing? My inverter sits drawing 0.3 of an amp. That could be the difference. I too have 4 domestics and it works very well for us but no two peoples life styles are the same innitt.

Once you start digging, it's scary what could be found :( 

 

I turned all switches on the 12v panel off, but the panel still showed -4 was still drawings (inverter switched off). Then I realised the 12v fridge was running (surely it shouldn't have been?), so I turned it off manually. The 12v panel now registered '0'. Turned on the inverter and the 12v panel didn't change, waited for a few minutes, and still zero. Just been told by OH that nothing will register until a 240v 'something' is turned on. 

 

There's a fear I'm off topic here. As it stands, we don't have a problem, but you've got me thinking...... which is not always a good thing :( 

 

 

 

Edited by Jennifer McM
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4 minutes ago, Jennifer McM said:

Once you start digging, it's scary what could be found :( 

 

I turned all switches on the 12v panel off, but the panel still showed -4 was still drawings (inverter switched off). Then I realised the 12v fridge was running (surely it shouldn't have been?), so I turned it off manually. The 12v panel now registered '0'. Turned on the inverter and the 12v panel didn't change, waited for a few minutes, and still zero. Just been told by OH that nothing will register until a 240v 'something' is turned on. 

 

There's a fear I'm off topic here. As it stands, we don't have a problem, but you've got me thinking...... which is not always a good thing :( 

 

 

 

Inverter dropping into sleep mode but you're luck if it draws zero.

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35 minutes ago, Jennifer McM said:

Once you start digging, it's scary what could be found :( 

 

I turned all switches on the 12v panel off, but the panel still showed -4 was still drawings (inverter switched off). Then I realised the 12v fridge was running (surely it shouldn't have been?), so I turned it off manually. The 12v panel now registered '0'. Turned on the inverter and the 12v panel didn't change, waited for a few minutes, and still zero. Just been told by OH that nothing will register until a 240v 'something' is turned on. 

 

There's a fear I'm off topic here. As it stands, we don't have a problem, but you've got me thinking...... which is not always a good thing :( 

 

 

 

 

That is exactly what I would hope will happen. The start up current of the fridge is so high even a well specified panel type switch may either cause excess voltdrop or suffer premature failure. In my view the fridge should connect to the domestic master switch with a suitable fuse/breaker close to the masters witch and then run to the fridge. In most boats we are talking about getting on for petrol engine starter size cables. I would then fit a really heavy duty switch local to the fridge. Although its not ideal mine uses both poles of a 40 amp domestic double pole switch.

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2 minutes ago, Tony Brooks said:

 

That is exactly what I would hope will happen. The start up current of the fridge is so high even a well specified panel type switch may either cause excess voltdrop or suffer premature failure. In my view the fridge should connect to the domestic master switch with a suitable fuse/breaker close to the masters witch and then run to the fridge. In most boats we are talking about getting on for petrol engine starter size cables. I would then fit a really heavy duty switch local to the fridge. Although its not ideal mine uses both poles of a 40 amp domestic double pole switch.

Mine has no switches at all, just a Merlin Gerin MCB right on the cabin supply busbar, 16mm cables. About 9m total length.

I cheat too, the solar feeds in onto the fridge 'cos it was the easiest place to connect it.

I found it was quieter when the voltage was higher too.

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6 minutes ago, Tony Brooks said:

 

That is exactly what I would hope will happen. The start up current of the fridge is so high even a well specified panel type switch may either cause excess voltdrop or suffer premature failure. In my view the fridge should connect to the domestic master switch with a suitable fuse/breaker close to the masters witch and then run to the fridge. In most boats we are talking about getting on for petrol engine starter size cables. I would then fit a really heavy duty switch local to the fridge. Although its not ideal mine uses both poles of a 40 amp domestic double pole switch.

Methinks you do protest too much (Pot and Black come to mind).

IME the fridge control system goes into sleep mode at the end of a cycle or if power is removed  and doesn't restart for a period of time (no idea how long that is.

All my kit is controlled via a MCB / switched panel - even the Mikuni-splutter and I've never had any problems with faulty stieches / breakersx. Perhaps they were made better in xx years ago...

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  • 1 month later...

so went for the waeco crx 80.

 

have fitted an started up fine, the freezer doesn't appear to be cold enough though, does anyone know why this is? Also what temperature setting do people run these on? we have it on 3 and have two solar panels so hoping that will be enough.

 

Thanks,

 

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10 minutes ago, curlass24 said:

Also what temperature setting do people run these on?

Somewhere between 1 and 5

 

It depends on the ambient temperature, in hot weather it will need to be turned 'up' ( a higher number) and in cold weather turned 'down' (a lower number)

 

I would say that the 'average is around 3 or 4

 

If your ice cream melts, turn it up.

 

Get your self a fridge thermometer ('pennies' from the likes of Home Bargains) - the fridge section wants to be at 5 degrees C

 

Mine (the compressor) runs between 15 & 20 minutes per hour.

 

You don't state the size of your solar panels.

But assuming they are 100 watt then they will cope with the fridge as the weather improves, but will probably NOT during end October to Early March.

Edited by Alan de Enfield
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