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23 minutes ago, DannyC said:

It's kinda of sandwiched underneath the engine bracket with the rubber bit. 

If that is the case then as has previously been said, it wants winding all the way up to sandwich the engine mount between that top nut and itself. 

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When it's light I will get some better pictures. I feel like it has slipped down, but i'll put sone pics up before I start messing with it. 

 

Thanks all

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1 hour ago, Tony Brooks said:

Despite what Danny claims I agree with you. The first photo seems to show part of the back of an alternator so scaling from that the part Danny says is part of the mount looks much more to me, size wise, like the actual engine bed. Could this ne a redundant stud & nut? I can't see an engine foot in that photo either.

 

So better photos please

I see it as a 12 thread gap between the top of the engine foot and the top nut

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I would start by just seeing if both front mounts look to be much the same height and then do the same with the back two. The engine might slant backwards or forwards a bit but its not likely to be tipped sideways or diagonally out except by accident. This of course depends on the engine beds being identical, with luck they will probably not be far out. If one corner looks to be down a bit then you can be suspicious of that mounting. It could be perished or damaged or the underneath nut might need winding up a bit. This is very much rule of thumb checking but it might just help.

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2 minutes ago, DannyC said:

I can actually wiggle the stud with my hand on the loose one by the alternator. This can't be good.

Assuming this is a rear mount (is it?) does the other rear mount have about the same amount of stud sticking up above the top nut? If so, as has been said repeatedly, wind the bottom nut up tight to the engine mount. 

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OK, all clear now but I fear this is not going to be straight forward. I think that was left loose because if you did pull the bottom nut up to the top one it looks to me as if the engine foot will foul the alternator and possibly damage the white cables. I cant see that being correct but its a Barrus branded alternator so is presumably as originally fitted. I think an early Barrus twin alternator engine used just one V belt to drive both alternators so if I remember correctly their engineering is not always spot on. It needs careful checking of clearances before too much else is done.

 

 

Edited by Tony Brooks

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 I thought that that too...

 

Although would the alternator not lift up as I wind up the nut?

2 minutes ago, Tony Brooks said:

OK, all clear now but I fear this is not going to be straight forward. I think that was left loose because if you did pull the bottom nut up to the top one it looks to me as if the engine foot will foul the alternator and possibly damage the white cables.

 

 

 

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1 minute ago, DannyC said:

 I thought that that too...

 

Although would the alternator not lift up as I wind up the nut?

 

I am a clot, of course it will.

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Just now, DannyC said:

Ok. So i'll wind it up. Is it good practice to count the threads on its opposite number to ensure I get it the same height? 

No, because one would hope that the engine was correctly aligned originally which might not mean both supports were at exactly the same level. The top nut doesn’t look like it’s moved anywhere so at this stage leave it alone. 

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2 minutes ago, DannyC said:

Ok. So i'll wind it up. Is it good practice to count the threads on its opposite number to ensure I get it the same height? 

 

That is probably the best you can do without undoing the shaft coupling and doing a proper alignment but it assumes both beds are at the same height and level.

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15 hours ago, bizzard said:

Can't be certain with that first pic but it looks like the bottom nut has wound down, I'd try winding it back up and tighten it. Don't touch the top self locking nut. There should be flats or hex for spanner or grips on top of the stud to hold it still whilst winding the nut up.

That is how it looks to me too. This is a fairly common problem with engine mounts, and can be avoided by regularly checking the nuts for tightness. Keep the appropriate spanners handy: I always found it best to use two, one to keep the top nut in place while doing upthe loose lower one, then a final nip up tight on both at once.

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1 minute ago, Stilllearning said:

Keep the appropriate spanners handy: I always found it best to use two, one to keep the top nut in place while doing upthe loose lower one...

The danger with doing it like that is that the top nut might rotate. Better to hold the stud with a screwdriver, grips or adjustable spanner (depending on the design) and then tightening the bottom nut against that as described by Bizz. 

 

The pictures show a hex at the top of the stud in this case, so it can be easily held with a ring spanner. 

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3 minutes ago, WotEver said:

The danger with doing it like that is that the top nut might rotate. Better to hold the stud with a screwdriver, grips or adjustable spanner (depending on the design) and then tightening the bottom nut against that as described by Bizz. 

The trick is to be aware of what is going on. There’s not always space to put a screwdriver etc on top of the bolt, and for me I preferred the spanner method.

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In the OPs case there is a nice hex top to the stud  that he can put a spanner on to stop the stud rotating, also the top nut is self locking so is unlikely to have run itself up, so is very likely to be in the right place still. What bothers me is the OP said the stud is loose and wiggly, so may have detached from the rubber,

Edited by ditchcrawler

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Hey. How do I secure the stud? I started trying to turn the bottom nut and the whole stud just turned with it.

 

Is there a particular tool i can use for holdong the stud in place?

 

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14 minutes ago, DannyC said:

Hey. How do I secure the stud? I started trying to turn the bottom nut and the whole stud just turned with it.

 

Is there a particular tool i can use for holdong the stud in place?

 

Perhaps you missed this post -

In the OPs case there is a nice hex top to the stud  that he can put a spanner on to stop the stud rotating, also the top nut is self locking so is unlikely to have run itself up, so is very likely to be in the right place still. What bothers me is the OP said the stud is loose and wiggly, so may have detached from the rubber,

Edited Tuesday at 10:10 by ditchcrawler

 

 My comment - If you have a small spanner you can immobilise the stud with that - it's only needed to stop the stud rotating. If no small spanner available a pair of pliers will suffice 

 

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1 hour ago, DannyC said:

Is there a particular tool i can use for holdong the stud in place?

In case you can’t read the above post (it’s scrambled for me) the answer boils down to “A spanner on the hex at the top of the stud or a pair of pliers at a push”

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So just started screwing the bottom nut back up and it started to cause dripping from the propeller! So I reversed it and it is now back in the position it was - this has stopped the dripping. 

 

Can you suggest what to do next?

 

Edited by DannyC

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