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Showing results for tags 'vent'.
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Our Alexander/Riverview semi-trad has two grilled vents into the engine compartment, one on either side of the hull. The grilles of both of these are subject to regular accidental removal, mostly from catching against the armco at moorings. One of them is directly next to the battery bank, the other opens into an empty space. There are two other vents into the engine space as well. Do you think they're likely to be essential for the cooling of the Barrus 2000 engine, or would the other two vents be enough? I've seen numerous boats with apparently no vents to the engine space. Any thoughts, please?
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HI, I'm trying to work out the kilowatt input rating for a paloma water heater. Unfortunately it's out of the boat so I don't have the plate to hand immediately... but... it's one of the 'old looking' ones with the red stripe on the front and paloma in shiny metal. White enamelled. I've found a manual which suggests it might be 635 btu/minute, which I think converts to 11kw. But that sound like rather a lot. Does anyone know what the 'normal' old school boat paloma takes in kw? Trying to work out how many vents I need to install in the re-fit! Cheers, Patrick
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My high and low level ventilation meets BSS recommended levels, but the present double digit minus temperatures have really highlighted an issue we've so far just lived with. The rear end vent comes into the trad back end engine/control space through 2 gunwale level vents, one to port under the boards into the engine 'ole (where the Eberspacher is sited, with a snorkel on its air intake direct to the vent) and one to starboard into the stairwell, although the two spaces are really one and the same with boxing in but also an access gap. There's also a fair bit of vent provided by unsealed doors out to the steerer's step. The vent from there into the bedroom is facilitated by purpose built gaps over and under the bedroom rear door. The top gap is fine but there is a cutting draught under the door. Whilst I don't wish to simply block it off and potentially cause a safety issue, it would be nicer if it wasn't quite so much like a tube leading directly to the Russian steppes! The stove, incidentally, is at the very opposite end of the 57' boat and has plenty of high and low level vent around it. So, with air breathing engine and appliances being supplied with air well outside of the aft bedroom, do the panel think I need to continue to haemorrhage brownie points by telling the missus to man up, or is possible to safely improve the icy blast issue? Thanks.
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Seems to be a recurring topic! Like many, I've had water coming in the mushroom vents, eventually leading to roof panel discolouring. It's now time to fix it. My question is: how is the vent liner (see photo, courtesy of Calcutt Boat Shop - thanks) fitted to the main vent? Should it be a push fit or sealed with something? Right now it is loose. The main vents seem to be properly sealed on the boat roof.
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Hi All, Did a search but found nothing on this. I have 7 brass mushroom vents on my boat. The previous owner clearly never adjusted them and they are seized solid. I sprayed WD40 on the threads and tried turning them from the roof with a strap wrench. Unfortunately the latter slips on the smooth dome so I cant get much purchase. I thought I'd loosened one until it unscrewed itself from the shaft. Likewise, a lever on the wing nut in the cabin results in that unscrewing from the shaft. In a clock wise direction they simply wont budge. Any suggestions?