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Showing results for tags 'two pack'.
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Our boat is about 7 years since the previous owner had the Hull 2 pack epoxy applied. ( He never skimped, so I believe it was done to a good standard ). But I've hit the odd thing underwater, the rocks on the side of the Oxford canal weren't so great heading down to the Thames. So I'm thinking time to take a look. Does this make sense ? Its just out of the water for 1 day ( need to book up much further in advance for the week long spots ). If you use a power washer will it harm the coating ? ( Ok its my risk, but interested in opinions ). What I'm looking to see is can I go on with a few years or some patching with 2 pack over any issues, or do I need to line up a more serious job ? Interested to hear what your opinions are ! Tim ( Suikerbossie )
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Hi folks. My boat was sprayed in 2012 by a car sprayer using 2 pack. Process of corrosion started to panel directly underneath the chimney. Problem won't recur. The obviously damaged area has been grinded out and vactan applied. The damaged area occured to the background black colour and also the cream coloured stripe. I was planning on a DIY car panel style repair. After filling and priming, using aerosols. It's a big patch. Looking at it now, the corrosive process has effected the paint in a larger area but perhaps not penetrated it. I'm thinking of taking the whole end section of the panel back to metal. From roof line to gunnel. I'm not sure now what's best. If it I should investigate conventional boat paints with application by roller and brush and lots of flatting. Or if I should stick to a rattle can method. Perhaps there is a chemical reason with the different paint options to have to treat this like a car repair? I'll sus how to add pics and include in mo. Thanks Mart https://postimg.cc/image/cbnykmhtd/ https://postimg.cc/image/eg8blpr5t/
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I have been reading with great interest the forums for a number of years and noted that many people advise the use of a 2 pack epoxy coating for the hull rather than Bitumen. I though you might be interested in my experience with another paint. When I first purchased my boat it was with a bitumen coating - which did not last long before one could see the red oxide primer underneath. I then started working for a boat hire company and whilst in the drydock found they were using a vynyl paint called Resistex (made by Leighs paints) It went on very quickly and dried within about a minute or two - so a second coat could be applied straight after you finished the first. You could do the final brush strokes, then immediately open the flooding valve for the dock and the paint stayed on for the next two to three years with no signs of galvanic corrosion. However I was told that they started with a new hull, shot blasted and applied it on bare steel - the paint would not like to be in contact with bitumen. A year or so later having got fed up with the large orange patches on my hull each time I drydocked, I scraped off the bitumen with an old chisel and applied a first coat of Resistex with a brush - In pits where bitumen was present, it bubbled and frothed and I had to keep going back over it to get a first coat. The second coat went on better (these were then called primer coats) and I followed this with two coats of the black top coat. Two years later in drydock I found that galvanic orange spots were much reduced. The resistex was wire wheeled down and re-coated. 15 years later with a drydock about every two to three years (pressure wash, wire wheel & recoat with two coats of Resistex) - there is no orange patches, no observed extra pitting and drydock takes about 1½ days unless there is stern gear work to be done. Leighs Resistex uses a quick evaporating thinners (hence the quick drying) so you use a lot to keep the pot fluid.