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Found 2 results

  1. Hi All, I'm after a little advise about my replacement alternator, Pestolite 66021590M, which I have fitted. It is replacing the original 900021-als with is a Lucas a127 70amp which was teamed up with Sterling Advanced Regulator ( the blue one). This is a photo of the old alternator in situ. Looking at the HMI diagram (attached) the old alternator doesn't have a negative connection, so assuming the case was the negative. On installing the new alternator I connected the Black & Yellow cable (D+) which connects to the Aux Light on the control panel and the battery plus (B+). Turning the ignition to the on position the the 'Aux Alternator Charge Light' on the control panel did not illuminate as it normally would so I touched a cable between the battery negative (B-) and the engine casing, instantly the light illuminated indicating to me that i need the negative connection. The next test was to briefly turn the engine over and jump between the B- and the engine casing. No output from the alternator until the jump was made which shot up to 88 Amps and the engine tone changed to indicate a load. Using a bit of 6mm cable I connected the B- to the negative on my batteries using ring connections, I turned the engine over, keeping an eye on the cable temperature, the charge rate was significantly lower about and Amp (forgot to write it down) and with the inverter running the batteries we discharging. The batteries were almost fully charged (~98%) but I would have expected with the inverter & TV one the the charge would have been positive. What am I missing or doing wrong? Also, I am unsure what the negative cable should be, is it just completing the circuit or is it taking a heavy load therefore needing a heavy duty cable? Any views / suggestions / ideas / pointing out my mistakes would be great, Thank you, Scott
  2. Hi all, I am having issues with my engine over heating which has happened on a couple of occasions and I really need to get to the bottom of the issue. we bought our boat about 1.5 years ago and when we did it came with a brand new Isuzu 38 which had been put in the engine room but had never been fitted as the previous owners never moved the boat so never got round to having it plumbed in. So when we bought her the engine room was empty apart from the engine just sitting on its new mounts. The boat was built in 2004 and I installed the engine myself I following the installation instructions that came in the engine manual and it runs fine apart from on a couple of occasions it has over heated and I’m wondering if it’s something I’ve done wrong. Having read the previous posts on a similar issue with another Isuzu I have removed the thermostat and checked it in hot water and it’s opening fine. I am going to be taking her out for a short holiday in a weeks time so wanted to gain any insights that people can offer. To make thing easier I will be posting some pictures so you can see how she is installed and spot any obvious issues visually. Our boat is a 72 foot narrow boat with a trad back and we believe the shell was built by measham boats, now called star line I think? We have fitted the colarifier to the engine but the first time she over heated was before this was connected up so not sure this is the issue. I will I’ll also be measuring the skin tank size later and post that to rule out an undersized cooling tank issue she first over heated when we moved her down from the Ashby canal to where we are now at billing aquadrom on the river nene, we had the guy from RCR come out and he disconnected the buzzer saying it was the temperature sender that was the issue? But he did no tests on it and the engine is def running hot when pushed. The last time we went out all was fine for 2 hours then it spat a hose off and emptied Everything into the engine bilge. ive reattached the hose and refilled her but have not moved her since. really don’t fancy braking down on the river so any advice is very welcome as soon as the wife’s up I will get in the engine bay and post some pictures
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