Search the Community

We are looking to paint the interior wood panels of our boat but don't know what type of paint to use... should we avoid water based paint due to condensation? Any tips on the best type to use (and preparation) would be gratefully received! Thanks, Becky

Hi all, So, myself an my partner are considering buying a 'sail-away' which will consist of: Shell - primed and blacked, Windows, plywood floor, battoned -out and spray insulation, electrics in situ (inverter, fuse box, 240/24v). I will also purchase a multi-fuel burner (4-5k) and install it. Now, im considering doing The plumbing, gas, and installing partition walls/kitchen/bathroom with one other person full time for 2 months and moving to part-time for the following 6. We have budgeted 8k for the whole build and we will be purchasing second hand items to lower the cost I.e a kitchen with appliances can be obtained for >500 on eBay. I have been dabbling in carpentry for 5 years, I have enough tools and access to a industrial work shop with a CNC machine (yes, that's right floral cut-out partitions!) I have also been living on a boat that requires constant attention for three. I can provide a break down of the projected costs but is 8k realistic? One thing I know very little of is plumbing. Is 1.5k enough for a full water system cold/hot: Boiler (for shower only), accumulator, pumps, etc I appreciate this question may invite the polemicists but lay off the pejorative answers! Thank you in advance

Hi. We are carrying out a partial refit of our narrowboat. At present the shell is lined with varnished and veneered 3-ply and we intend to paint the interior an off-white so that it doesn't feel like the 1970's. We're pretty new to this, although not stupid! So far we have sanded and then wood-fillered any holes and rough parts, and then re-sanded. Any areas that are a little worse for wear around windows we have sanded a bit more aggressively, covered with a wood-rot treatment, wood fillered if necessary, and then finally roughened up a bit with sandpaper so that the undercoat/primer can take hold. We have used a damp proof white emulsion undercoat (Wickes own brand), and then plan to cover that with a silk or matte finish top coat. Does this sound like a decent course of action? I'm presuming the top coat should not be water-based? Can anyone suggest a good paint type to choose from that's available in somewhere like Wickes or B&Q? We have only completed one room so far, and then it occurred to me that maybe we could have gone with a one-coat (combined primer & topcoat) wood paint, thus saving time, and possibly money. The boat (65ft 1998 narrowboat) is not damp, but a damp-proof undercoat/primer seemed like a good idea to us at the time. Any thoughts would be much appreciated!!

Hi lovely helpers, The inside of my boat has been breeding insane procrastination. Hoping someone can help! I've read through lots of the posts here, but just to be sure here is the unique situation of similar nature. I have an old boat, it had sunk before I got it, and the interior was full of rust - totally stripped, no ballast so quite ideal. First, I hit the chunks of flake with a crow bar, then a chipping hammer, then an angle grinder, then some sand paper. After I rid all the loose flakes I rinsed it with vinegar and potato, which was pretty effective. There are various remnants of different paints throughout. Mostly a kind of red oxide, and then at the front possibly a bitumen, but I think under all of that is a grey/blue paint.. possibly a zinc thing? Can only attach one photo, will try to add more to clarify. I was given some Micaceous Iron Oxide, and feel hesitant to waste it. Not sure if its similar to Red Oxide, or if it prevents rust coming through? My ideal aim, is to use a paint to seal the rust and protect the metal, so that I can prevent the boat rusting from the inside out. While the boat is stripped it is the best opportunity to do the best job I can.. but I've been hesitating for way too long. I've started grinding off what seems to be the bitumen. As I've seen in some posts the best prep is bare steel, and I really want to do the best I can. I have time but not so much money. Any advice much appreciated. Any knowledge about Micaceous Iron Oxide also would help a lot (can't seem to find much info about its relation with rust or bitumen, whether its best on bare steel etc) Many thanks, Sam (I would like to share a discovery of angle technique: I often see the lament of wire wheels getting clogged with bitumen, or making it too hot and smearing it. I've found it quite effective to hold the grinder so its practically tickling the bitumen, or tap it lightly... it takes it off really quickly. Also best to only spend a few seconds per patch so it doesnt get too hot, and of course better to do on a cool day. Also, after a few minutes, where even the tapping is simply smearing... have a scrap of metal near by and periodically clean the grinder with it. I have been using the same wire wheel on many metres of bitumen with this method. Also, I have seen warnings of taking off the good metal: if you are gentle enough, you will see minimal sparks.. at least with the top layer of bitumen there will hardly any sparks at all, but being observant of what splatters out of the grinder is a way to keep metal loss to a minimum... hope this is helpful to someone..!)

Boaters all, I want to replace the tired, 90s laminate floor in the galley that still makes me tiptoe with bare-feet as if i'm in a youth hostel. I know it's marine ply beneath, though thickness I'm unsure of. Obviously I could simply replace with new vinyl or laminate and problem solved. But now i'm thinking about painting the floor instead. Since there's no insulation there to speak of anyway, I don't think it will be any colder than it is now, which doesn't bother me anyway. But is it okay to simply paint the marine ply? (with appropriate prep and paint of course). Has anyone else got painted marine ply flooring? Thanks, Andrew