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Hello fellow boaters & learned members; on our 40' x 7' 1926, teak on oak cruiser, I intend to fit (at least) two magnesium anodes. I was thinking initially to protect the steel rubbing plate under the keel as well as the stern tube and steering gear, but our boat builder assures me there's a lot more metal in the boat that needs protecting, in particular, the 1,000s of copper nails/rivets that hold the boat together. He's given me some sensible and logical suggestions as to where to place the anodes, but I'd like to read up a bit more on any theory of how anodes work on a wooden boat and where best to place them. Does anyone please know about this or can anyone suggest any books that might cover this? Thanks in advance for all help. The Hairy Animal (aka Charles Lyne)

Hello all , I am new to boating , and have a query about anodes. I recently bought a 55 foot narrowboat with a steel hull. My survey before purchase stated that my current anodes were in a serviceable condition. Soon after purchase I had her taken out of water and blacked ( the right thing to do ) . I am now thinking that I should have had a couple (or more) anodes fitted at this time. I won't be taking her out of water for at least another year , and am spending a bit of time in a marina hooked up to a landline while I get her ship-shape before I set off as a continuos cruiser and explore the waterways. My question is this ... Would it be worth buying an anode or two and dangling them over the side with wires that are connected to the steel shell. With my current knowledge I think that they would work, but maybe the resistance in the connecting wires would be too high to make this an effective protection.n I am thinking of connecting a galvanic isolator but many people have said that it is not really worth it for short stays in a marina. .. . ..Also has anybody got any advice on how to set up an earthing cable? Any thoughts would be much appreciated.....even a lol would do......lol!

hello, i am selling a boat and the survey is back and the buyers are saying that it will need to be sand/ grit blasted and epoxy painted as she is pitted and more than expected for a boat of 2.5 years old. What causes pitting? What is the best option to remedy it, ensure the boat doesn't deteriorate rapidly? And is epoxy the same thing as 2pack? It has just recently been cleaned, scraped and blacked with 2 coats of bitumen. she's a 45 ft widebeam. Can you tell me also i) a rough cost for sand/ grit blasting? ii) a rough cost for epoxy 2 pack? i am trying to get a sense of what work is needed and what I can allow for when we re-negotiate the price. Thank you!

Hello, So I'm thinking of buying my first canal boat, and I'm a self confessed newbie and would really appreciate any advice. My reason for buying is I grew up on sailing boats and I love being on and around the water - this boat is currently docked in a marina in the city centre and why spend hundreds on a water front studio when I can stay on a lovely boat. I'd also love to meet the community and generally enjoy the lifestyle. The boat I'm looking at is valued last year at 35k for insurance purposes. It's 60ft from 1996. She was also shot blasted, 2-pack epoxy coated including base plate and had 12 new anodes fitted in 2018. So the boat was lifted out last year and they didn't get any work/plating done - the seller assures me that he wasn't told of any work that needed doing. We agreed on a price (aprrox 30k), with the agreement that I get a survey, and if there's any work that needs doing after the survey up to £2k, I'll split the cost here. If it's north of 2k, I'll get my 10% deposit back (which I haven't paid yet) and pull out of the sale because I would struggle to pay much more. The seller seems like a good character, and in the interest of a quick sale (he almost sold it in July and the buyer backed out last minute), he's knocked a further 2k off the price agreed if I do not get a survey and move in this month. Me, being in my 20s, I can't afford to buy this outright so I'll be getting a loan, so this is quite attractive. The present anodes will need to be replaced within 6-12 months, which will cost about 500 quid and need a lift out, so from that perspective it makes sense to get it lifted out for a survey now. On the other hand it would save me money on rent moving in quick, and over the summer I might put it on airbnb over the weekends whilst I'm off in my van rock climbing, which could allow me to live rent free for some of the year. Do you have any advice? Do you think the discount is a good one? Or do you think this is a massive alarm bell for issues underneath? Do you have any advice for ensuring I get my deposit back in the event of a no sale for the given terms? We've drafted a contract, but not through any official board so I don't know how to guarantee it's enforcement. From where I'm sat both ways have their own risks, so I'd be very grateful for any experienced folk to let me know what they'd do.