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  1. We have a Tecma Silent macerator toilet and a holding tank under the bed about 3.5m away. The pump out is via the roof. We had the smelly pipes replaced 4 years ago soon after buying the boat - they were and are still smelly despite expensive anti-pong pipe. I want to replace pipework again this winter. I'm after some advice on pipework reconfiguring, non-return valves and the like. At present the pipe leaves the toilet and runs at floor level before rising up to enter top of tank. In my mind this creates 3.5m of tubular 'tank' along back of my wardrobes etc. Ewwwww! What I plan to do is get the pipe to rise up steeply and as high as reasonable as soon as possible from toilet, then slope v gently down to the tank. This will involve contortions to cut new pipe holes through backs of 3 cupboards so Q1- Will a steep rise like this be ok with the macerator? and Q2 - will this make a difference to the smell, having it drain better to holding tank? I don't want backflow to toilet! Next issue - if the tank is full and can't be pumped out immediately, within a day the tank 'burps' sewage back into the toilet bowl (I've not seen this - reported by boatsitter twice while waiting for pumpout) Double ewwwww! This implies summat wrong with non- return valves or maybe fermentation in the long pipe as I'd think it would have gone up the vent pipe. Where should non-return valves be? Final bit of advice needed - the roof pipes have a pumpout pipe, a rinse pipe, and an air vent pipe. These pipes whiff too, passing up through airing cupboard behind my bed. And when standing on the back if someone flushes - pong! How to set up to minimise smell in these? Filters? Valves? Someone suggested rigid pipe but I don't think I can get enough access for that - the toilet-to-tank pipe definitely has to be flexible. The vertical ones could have rigid sections. I could lag pipes but that might only mask things temporarily. Any advice on set-up and smell - avoidance much appreciated. If there is a Midlands expert I'm by happy to pay em to deal with all this. (I need to stress I dislike pump out toilets in principle. Especially when they make my bedroom and clothes whiff of plasticky sewage!!!!) Thanks all.
  2. We have had our boat for about 6 weeks and our pumpout toilet became blocked this morning; the macerator runs, the water goes down, but then when the power stops to the macerator the water flows back up again, along with whatever was in it. Nothing down there but very cheap TP and natural products, so we suspect some sort of TP blockage, but it appears to be after the macerator. We did a thorough pumpout just yesterday. Any advice on how to clear? We are okay with advice that might shorten the lifespan of the pumpout, as we intend to rip the blasted thing out and replace it next week.
  3. Hi, can anybody tell me whether it is possible to replace a macerator toilet with a gravity pump lever type? We had to take the old macerator toilet out (broken an unable to repair). We currently have a porta potti in place but would like a more permanent replacement. Has anyone done anything similar?
  4. Ok, I'm guessing there have already been hundreds of posts about bogs on boats. My first was a bucket in the engine room. I have to say, it was something of a reverse bird-puller. She was not impressed in the morning after the night before. Then Porta Potti. Great, having to re-examine the proceeds of everyone's diet for the last n days. Nah. Then pump-out, dump-thru style. Yuk, the stink! Then 'proper' pump-out, with a super-duper macerator toilet. Why do those things only have an outlet hole in the pan of about 1" diameter?? Come on, without getting too gross, a sizable deposit is not going to fit down there too easily! Then on to the 'eco-friendly' composting bog. Great idea, but do you really want to have buckets of poo, in varying degrees of decay, dotted around your boat, like some weird Andy Warhol art effort? Then there are all the issues about the availability of disposal facilities, be that 'Elsan' or dump-out. Plus the cost. Why can you never find a working pump-out facility when your tank is full to the brim? There is only one answer, folks. Burn it. You will never seek out a pump-out or Elsan point ever again!! (I have the feeling that barbecued sausages will never quite be the same, though ) If you are still in any doubt, watch this video:
  5. Ok, i know this has been done before because i've read a couple of threads in the past, but there didn't seem to be anything like a consensus so would be interested in knowing current views. We have a Mansfield Traveler. Both the pump and the seals have failed and we will resolve these in the coming months. In the meantime we are flushing with water from a bottle and sealing the bulb with dampened tissue. Incidentally, the latter is very effective at preventing smells and also makes it much easier to flush solids with a small quantity of water. Nevertheless, the toilet smells when the seal is broken, and neither Elsan Blue or Odorlos are much use, despite the latter claiming to eliminate odours 100%. We've asked a few boaters and some seem to find bio detergent to work well. I'd be interested in hearing peoples' views on this and have added a poll to the topic.
  6. Hi, I have had to remove my C200 toilet to work on the flush valve. Unfortunately the screws holding it to the floor were not in the recommended place and had rusted so much as to be impossible to unscrew. I had to cut the heads off to get the toilet out. Now to get at the valve area and to be able to screw the toilet back to the floor I would like to split the base in two. The Thetford spares list shows the base as an upper and a lower part so it must have at some time in its life been two separate parts - see parts 20 and 21 in attached picture. The lip of the top looks like it clips around the base part but I cannot get it to come off and I don't want to force it too much without knowing how it comes apart. Does anyone know how to split the two parts please?
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