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Found 7 results

  1. Hello everyone, I'm hoping someone can help me with a calorifier problem i have. Let me start by saying we bought the boat (1993 50ft widebeam) from a third party who knew nothing about the boat and could only show us it running so this has all been a bit of a learning curve, overcoming problem by problem. The boat has a calorifier fitted approximately 1meter from the engine, but we only seem to have hot water when the engine has been running and the boat moving, and even this is only after 3+ hours. running the engine at idle moored up produces nothing. I have bled the air from the system by running the engine to hot and removing coolant filler cap as well as loosening the fittings for water into the calorifier from engine and return to the engine from calorifier whilst engine was running and hot which revealed there was some air in there. each of these actions were done in turn rather than all at once. coolant is approx 30% antifreeze. Because of the length of time it takes to warm up, I believe the water is heating through thermal conductivity of the water in the system as opposed to circulating round the system. The boat used to have a siren/alarm which screamed out from the instrument panel when the ignition was switched on, which we thought was normal until I had our alternator reconditioned as it wasnt producing any power for the batteries and then the alarm stopped and hasnt been back Additionally, on the instrument panel there is a "charge" "oil" and "water" light. Charge light goes out once engine is on and slight throttle applied as I presume it has now been excited. Oil light is never on, but the water light is always on, ignition on and engine on. there is also a single very thin electicial cable with a female spade elctrical connector on top of the engine, coming from the engine where the water/coolant leaves the engine to flow through the pipe to the calorifier. I have no idea where or what to connect to this cable. Can anyone advise what they think may be the problem or what my next course of action should be before contacting an engineer (and paying dearly for it). I will take photos shortly and try to upload within 24 hours. Could it be the thermostat? circulation pump? faulty electrical connection? Thanks for your help
  2. From the album: Alan Saunders

    Extract from Vetus M3.10, M4.14 parts catalogue

    © Vetus

  3. Hi all, hope you can enlighten me here. Our Petter PH2 (raw water cooled) engine heats our water by running through the block and then through the calorifier and then back through the engine. When the water returning from the calorifier reaches a certain temperature the themostat opens and out goes a measly dribble of steaming water out the side of the boat. Also the calorifier circuit then gets air locked/stops running water through as all the hot water goes straight out the outlet connected to the thermostat. The water never gets that hot at all and I was wondering if there are different temperature rated themostats so that it would allow the calorifier to get much warmer before switching to the outlet. Any ideas/thoughts about this? Also how come I never get a good 'gushing' out of the side of the boat and just a wee steamy trickle? Have checked for blockages in the inlet/mudbox and water flows string when I bleed the calorifier circuit. Also added an extra pump on the circuit to give the impeller a boost. Any help much appreciated, Cheers, Ed
  4. Hi. I have replaced the head gasket on my Isuzu 42 (see previous post). It defiantly was blowing upon inspection (due to a leaking hose and loss of coolant) We had the head skimmed, new bolts and genuine parts. The engine seems to be running fine except it's slow heating up. I suspect the thermostat is possibly sticking open as I remember the RCR engineer last summer showing me how the thermostat opens and closes by the temperature gauge. My question is, where do I get a cheaper thermostat other than the £50 plus genuine one I've seen on EBay. Are thermostats like filters. Common parts but large variation in price? Cheers. Rob
  5. Hello Canalworld - I've been a liveaboard boater for the last 5 years and have been reading this forum for about the same amount of time. I've never needed to post before as most of the problems I've come up against have been experienced by someone else and answered already. This time however I'm stumped! I have an Isuzu 55. When we are running the engine the temperature comes up to 81 degrees and will sit there all day long. I've been on the Thames punching against the tide and after about an hour it steadily heats up and if left will trigger the overheat alarm. This is easily rectified by dumping the hot water from the calorifier. The point is I know that my cooling system set up is good enough. This summer we were out cruising and for the first ten days everything was as usual, engine temp constant at 81 deg. Next day the temp was steady at 81 but at some point the temperature quickly crept up to 95 degrees, stayed there for about a minute and then dropped back down to about 75 degrees before returning to 81 degrees. I thought nothing of it but the same happened the following day. I tried running the engine without the filler cap and this stopped the problem from occurring, however it also stopped the operating temperature being reached. THis is now a recurring problem but is now getting more and more extreme. The temperature often shoots up 110 degrees and then drops back down to 60 degrees. The way this happens looks to me like a blockage that clears, or a coolant pump getting stuck. If I run the engine at idle it doesnt overheat, it will sit at 81 degrees as if there is no issue, it could be that the calorifier is operating as a good enough heat sink to deal with idle. I have never run it for long enough to heat the calorifier up. I thought this might be a sticky thermostat so I changed it - the stat was gunked up but putting the new one in didnt solve the problem. I thought it might be the coolant pipes, so I have changed these, although not the pipes to/from the skin tank - which I guess might be my next thing to do. I think I probably need to check my coolant pump as well but from what I have read this is not something I want to attempt without ruling out everything else first. Is this the right approach? Anyone seen similar behaviour? Any pointers would be greatfully recieved. Jared
  6. I've just bought an old Trentcraft GRP cruiser with a Perkins 100 series 3 cyl diesel engine. It has a heat exchanger that incorporates the exhaust manifold and uses canal/river water to cool it (and spits it out of the exhaust). There's a separate clean water supply via a header tank on top of the heat exchanger and a conventional (ie car type) water pump driven by vee belt. There's a bottom hose from the heat exchanger to the water pump but whereas on (old) cars you get a thermostat housing on top of the cylinder head and a top hose to the rad on this there's nothing like that. I assume the flow is through the cylinder head straight into the heat exchanger. According to a downloaded manual (which isn't very clear) there should be a thermostat behind the water pump, but the temp gauge varies from about 40°C on a canal to 70°C going upstream on a river so I suspect the thermostat is either jammed or missing. I'll strip it down at the end of the year and check. There are two tapping points on top of the water pump, currently plugged with threaded blanking plugs. I would like to fit a small calorifer but can't figure our where to connect to. Are the two tapped holes on the pump usable as flow and return? If so which is which, is there some way to find out? Or should I take hot water from one of those (which?) and return to a tee in the bottom hose? Any advice anyone?
  7. Hi All, Who has this engine and in particular this thermostat setup? My issues was the engine not heating the water, has been fine the last 8 months. Issue cam about when the Bowman end cap on the heat exchanged split, sending coolent everywhere. Replaced and refilled with coolent and bled system and still not hot water. Moved on to checking the thermostat, taking the cover off i was met with a weird hard plastic or possible rubber that has aged in hot water, it came out but very misshaped. Tested thermosat with good old pan of water, opened as it should in hot water. Bought a new one for a perkins 104-19 engine, plus sourced a spring that after researching the engine was listed. On fitting said spring to me it was not strong enough and that the water pressure could just move the whole thermosat in situ...anyway fitted with new thermo, spring etc and still not hot water. Im thinking that perhaps the hard tube is the way to go, buy a piece that attaches to back of plate and outside of thermosat, then drill 3 holes like the old one. I do not know engine temp and gauage broken and dont have testing equipment. I know if i run engine for two hours and take rad cap off the water is luke warm. So i preseum water is just going round the engine and calorifier in one big loop and never getting hot. If i run the Alde boiler the water does heat up so I know the calorifier tnk is OK. Would welcome thoughts and help, many thanks.
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