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Showing results for tags 'rubber'.
Found 4 results
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I've a 20yr old boat and a number of the window seals have shrunk in length. Probably a bit hard as well. Mainly fixed glazing with opening hoppers at the tops. Does anyone recognise the profile of the seals on the outside? They just 'jam' the glazing in position and don't grip the glass. Most of the products on-line seem to fit onto the glass. The straight profile to the left in the piccie is all that remains visible when fitted.
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Has anyone else tried Sugru, I have used it a few times now from new feet on the lap top, 90 deg bend on an Ipad cable to protecting the ends of brush draft excluder. It comes in small foil sachet and you have to use it all onse opened but if left sealed and stored in a fridge it keeps for years. Mine is 3 years past its use by date and was still OK last week https://sugru.com/
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This is my plan of the day: Like on many boats, our gas locker is very wet. We need to raise the floor above the water line, to prevent further rot. Surveyor and others recommend welding. This will involve cutting to gain access...I think it'll be done in a few years, when the boat is out, and we may epoxy the hull. As an interim, I was considering materials. I've read that people have used concrete, and even Kingspan!! My thought was to use something like this: http://www.robinsonsequestrian.com/liquid-rubber-floor.html It bonds with steel, is designed to resist impact and vibration, and is, indeed waterproof. Plus, we wouldn't need a rubber mat in the locker! If I were to clean up, weld the vents shut, and cut higher ones, and then pour some of this in, would I make my life better, or worse?
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Does anyone know what chlorinated rubber blacking paint is? Does anyone use it? I've found it very difficult to find any information on this, though I've been told its better than anything and takes years before the hull needs blacking again.
