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Found 7 results

  1. My Beta 43 domestic alternator has been a bit flakey on occasion recently. I've seen it being slow to excite on start up but eventually kicking in, maybe as much as a few minutes into running. It also gave me a little over 15v the other day, and has a couple of times also shown about half the Amps I'd expect after night in on batteries - I often see a bit above or below 100 amps on start up, but I'm talking about 50 here. She's been fine the last couple of days, but they aren't self healing, are they! The engine is a 2008 Beta 43, and the alternator is, like everything else of course, painted green so I can't see any identifying marks. Beta themselves have been very helpful and tell me its an Iskra 14V 150A alternator IA1058 11.203.124 which they no longer use, but they can source one with a 2 month lead time. I'm suspecting the regulator/brushes, but Googling til my fingers bleed hasn't turned up either the parts or any part numbers I can take further. I suspect the parts might be common to alternators under other manufacturers names, or perhaps there's an alternative alternator which would be compatible. Beta tell me the newer Iskra 175a they use is a different fit and form, and requires changes to the loom, etc, so that's not an economical way forward. It's a pretty common fit - has anyone been down this road before or is able to cast any light? Thanks for reading.
  2. Hello all, I've search the forums to the best of my abiities but I can't fing any answers... Here's my setup: Alternator goes to battery bank (2x110 leisure and 1 starter via relay) via a sterling 4-step alternator booster (the old fashioned yellow box type). The batteries are hardly getting a charge as they're receiving about 13v. The alternator is sending 16v and of course the high voltage trip light is lit up on the sterling unit. What I've done so far is replace the alternator regulator to no avail. What do you think the source of the probem is? I get a sense it's either the alternator or the wiring. I don't see how it could be the latter as the batteries have charged in the past at 14v (according to the dashboard). Since living on a boat for just over a year, this is the first time I'm had to work with the batteries,and the first time I've even touched the alterator. Here's what I could do: 1 - take the alternator out and get it tested/serviced at a garage and if it's dead get a new one. 2 - run some further tests based on the vast wisdom available here 3 - be told by you guys that I'm in over my head and should get a pro to come have a look (I won't be offended!) Thanks!
  3. Morning all I was wondering if anyone had fitted a alternator regulator to a lister SR3 and whether this had the desired effect to getting a better charge.
  4. Could somebody tell me what this alternator is please? I know the output is a staggering 30 A or so but it only charges the start battery which is rarely used as I prefer to hand start. Thanks N
  5. The regulator on my alternator is set to 13.8V. When I end a cruise and go on shore power it takes hours before the battery is fully charged. Would it be a good idea to use the 14.5V setting or would this cause damage to the batteries when cruising for eight hours a day? Would a battery controller be worth fitting? Is Adverc still the best choice?
  6. Hi there, I've got one of these (see pic below), but want to change it for something that can take more solar panels and is a bit more modern. We use it with a 60A alternator, and 1x 100w solar panel (although I think this regulator can only take up to 60w solar. We don't have a wind turbine. It only seems to produce a max of 14.1v when the engine's on (even after hours of cruising) and recently has been hitting 15.1v through the solar panel - which seems a bit high?! I'd like to replace it with a charger suitable for the alternator, and maybe solar as well. Do I need to get a separate charger for the alternator, then an MPPT charger for the solar panel (I also want to add either one or two 175w solar panel to make 275w or 375w in total). We have 3x 110ah leisure batteries and a starter battery, and a Sterling 1600W pure sine wave inverter that is yet to be hooked up.. Any advice, brands, models to watch out for etc, most welcome! Cheers, Alistair
  7. I've been reading all the threads about gas on this forum, as my mind now turns to getting my hob and oven hooked up. My intention is to get hold of a single length of pipe, run it from lockers to appliances, all properly clipped up etc, then get someone to connect all the hoses, valves, regulators etc, and test and certify. As I understand it I will need :The correct regulator(s), bubble test, hose, bulkhead fitting(s) 2x13kg bottles. 3/8" or 1/2" annealed copper pipe to BS EN1057. Also isolator and hose for oven and a tee to the hob. (I'd like the hob done in pipe without hose as it is accessible). But I'm unclear as to the arrangement at the gas bottle end of things. I have 2 gas lockers (one port one starboard, astern). I don't know how they would both connect to the supply pipe. Or what happens with changeover valves etc? I saw that someone was able to calculate size of pipe and regulators required - well I have a hob with 1x3kw, 1x1.75kw, 1x1kw burners, and the oven is stated as 2.5kw oven, 2.3kw grill but 2.5kw total (I presume you can't oven and grill together though it is twin cavity). The length of run between the nearest locker and the appliances is approximately 10-12 metres. I'm hoping to run it a couple inches up from the floor, all the way through various areas to the kitchen. The hob comes with an lpg adapter nozzle and three lpg jets, the oven is a Belling made especially for LPG only. Just trying to figure it all out at this stage, get an idea of cost and what's involved before going ahead. Thanks for any info.
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