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Showing results for tags 'radiators'.
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Hi, I recently purchased a boat, and on the first outing, the calorifier exploded. Now I am looking at trying to replace the calorifier, and looking at the plumbing, none of it makes any sense. I am assuming that my current installation is totally wrong; there was no pressure release valve on the hot water tank, no expansion tank, and the list goes on. There is a radiator in the bathroom which is coming off circuit with the hot water coming from the engine to the calorifier. After having my calorifier exploded, I am a bit dubious about this setup. I can't find any examples of similar setups online.
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Hi all 👋, first post on here but probably one of many, I'm currently looking into the heating system I am going to install on my widebeam i was hoping you could take a look and tell me what you think and if it all looks ok. (Heating sorce: Solid fuel fire and diesel water heater Heating up - radiators, under floor heating and hot water) I am thinking of installing the bubble b1c1 corner stove with back boiler, also what are peoples thoughts on the Prity AM 12 ( https://fireplacesforhome.com/Wood-Burning-Stove-Corner-Model-Fireplace-Log-Burner-Solid-Fuel-Prity-AM-12kw ) multifuel stove? And also a webasto diesel water heater. All my heating appliances are going to run to the NRG zone 5 manifold wich does allow thermosyphon , I plan to have 4x radiators, underfloor heating and calorifier attached. The diagram is missing the PRV and the pipes from the back boiler to the heating manifold will be in 28mm. My biggest worry is the thermosyphon safety as it is going to run to the heating manifold so i dont have any heat leak. Any input would be appreciated. Kind regards Brad I've linked the NRG zone let me know what you think to using this as I can't see any post speaking about this or any manifold. https://www.nrgawareness.com/product/nrg-zone-4-5-6-32-32-28/
- 8 replies
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- back boiler
- multifuel
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- thermosyphon
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- hot water system
- radiators
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- widebeam
- narrowboat
- diagram
- dhw
- calorifer
- heating
- underfloor
- underfloor heating
- header tank
- hot water heating
- hot water manifold
- gravity
- pressure relief valve
- prf
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- hot water savings
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Had to find a pub to warm my fingers... I have an Ellis Heatmaster on my nb and has worked fine since I fired up for winter, until now. I had the heating on for a an hour or so the other evening and noticed it had started to chill off despite the boiler still burning. So for an hour the radiators had been working as normal, but then suddenly just stopped. As if blocked, which I suppose may be the problem. I wanted to drain the system, but have two questions. Firstly, is this the best thing to do? is it sludge or something in the system that is most likely? and secondly, how do I refill it? there is a small open topped box above the boiler with three pipes. The first is connected to the fresh water and on the left of the box, and has a valve on it which when opened pumps water into this little box. The second, at the bottom of the box, is connected to the top of the boiler and top of calorifier, and its behaviour suggests the whole box is like an expansion box (?). The third acts as an overflow, and the water drains into the engine bilge. I just would like to understand this system a bit more, and most importantly fix the problem that means I can heat water but not the radiators... Any help much appreciated, thanks! Andrew
- 29 replies
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- ellis heatmaster
- central heating
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Hello there, Sorry for starting a probably well thrashed-out and potentially very stupid post, but after reading this forum and googling in general for an embarrassingly long time without gaining an understanding of what will do the trick, I'm still scratching my head. I'm doing up a 45footer and I'm after a system that will provide hot water for bath/shower, taps, a couple of little radiators for chilly mornings. I've got a little multifuel stove for heating on really cold days, and I have a morco d61 which I haven't fitted yet because I've realised I won't be able to run any radiators off it (useless, I know). I'm hoping to get a combi boiler of some sort, but the only ones mentioned on here are Alde, which appear to be in the over-a-grand cost region, which is a bit of an issue....but could be managed with a bit of saving. Would any other kind of combi boiler do, would I need anything else with it, or would a tank > pump > boiler > taps/radiators setup be functional? I've read some of the really useful guides on boat heating and water systems and I'm really impressed, I know a lot more than I did but I'm still wondering if there's a reason why you can't just buy an lpg boiler like this: http://www.mrcentralheating.co.uk/Heatline-CaprizPlus-24KW-Combi-Boiler-and-Fernox-Installers-Pack?gclid=Cj0KEQjw6pGfBRD09M-TmYTBzqIBEiQAcRzH5xtPIk5-EU3__2QYKdILCB5vKBf-3YkP9BYH3YKQ08kaApF78P8HAQ& Many thanks for your help all, and sorry again for starting a new topic on this. Lucy ==
- 47 replies
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I'm currently fitting out a 64ft narrowboat and have reached the point of fitting out the plumbing. I'm concentrating on the fresh water system, of which im adopting a very similar (if not identical) structure to C-Warm's schematic drawing...(see image link below) http://www.tnorrismarine.co.uk/images/cal1.JPG This system on paper looks pretty straight forward to me, I've sourced most of the parts yet connecting them together is a mystery to me. I'll be using push fit Hep2O which is relatively basic to fit, my concern lies more with installing the main components like the calorifier, water pump, accumulator tank, shower, valves etc... Has anyone installed a fresh water system and can guide me in the right direction? P.s - I'm very new to boating and unfamiliar with plumbing 'know how', hence theoretic or jargon related advice won't really help me, im much more apt at learning in a practical and visual method, I would be truly grateful if you could cater to that medium of information, regardless any help would be very much appreciated. Thanks in advance.
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And yet another conundrum - assuming a 62ft nb with 80l calorifier, I'm aiming for 4 rads plus a large towel rad. I know the Webasto likes to be fully loaded and is 5kw. I'm thinking 4x600w rads (2 in saloon, one in bedroom, one in stern cabin, plus towel rad in bathroom) look about right to me - otherwise next size up is 770w. What have you guys got?
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Hey guys, I'm in the middle of trying to get my Mikuni back in action for winter and need to refill the rad system (was drained for winter by previous owner about 2 years ago). I have access to inlet and outlet pipes and the header tank etc... I was assuming just a garden hose into the header tank, and adding antifreeze, but that's where my knowledge would end and you know what they say about assuming! How do I go about:1. Flushing and refilling the system (I know how to bleed the rads here)?2. What additives should I be using?3. Any tips?
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Can anyone help? I have an old Alde comfort gas boiler which heats the water in my calorifier & 4 radiators onboard. I have recently removed 2 of the radiators & capped them off. There don't seem to be any leaks in the system and I have re-filled the header tank with 50/50 anti-freeze/de-ionised water. But when I have switched the boiler back on there is no hot water! I've opened the valves on the radiators to bleed them with the Alde off and on several times and water comes out but it's not heating up!?! I have tried isolating the radiators and firing up the boiler - the water in the header tank gets hot and the pipe leading to the calorifier gets warm but not hot (I've tried leaving it on for several hours but it still doesn't heat the water in the calorifier) What am I missing here?
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Have just come to top up the header tank for my radiators. Bit concerned as the stuff I keep is blue, ready mixed and says on it, "silicate", I know that different types of anti freeze should not be mixed. The stuff in my header tank is red but the bottled stuff I have is very blue! Any ideas what type is in my radiator system or how do I check?