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Found 4 results

  1. A neighbour boater has an old boat with lots of stains inside from old leaks, bad painting jobs, red wine splashes ( hopefully its not blood! ) and general old muckiness. The wall panels are bare and seem to have never been varnished. Some of the woodwork is painted black and brown. Some is MDF. She is wanting to paint the inside white. As the wood needs priming is this the right paint to use and has anyone any experience with it? Zinsser Cover Stain Primer Paint White 2.5L Does it really stop the stains bleeding through? Will it cover dark paint? A top coat of white satin paint afterwards?
  2. Hi lovely helpers, The inside of my boat has been breeding insane procrastination. Hoping someone can help! I've read through lots of the posts here, but just to be sure here is the unique situation of similar nature. I have an old boat, it had sunk before I got it, and the interior was full of rust - totally stripped, no ballast so quite ideal. First, I hit the chunks of flake with a crow bar, then a chipping hammer, then an angle grinder, then some sand paper. After I rid all the loose flakes I rinsed it with vinegar and potato, which was pretty effective. There are various remnants of different paints throughout. Mostly a kind of red oxide, and then at the front possibly a bitumen, but I think under all of that is a grey/blue paint.. possibly a zinc thing? Can only attach one photo, will try to add more to clarify. I was given some Micaceous Iron Oxide, and feel hesitant to waste it. Not sure if its similar to Red Oxide, or if it prevents rust coming through? My ideal aim, is to use a paint to seal the rust and protect the metal, so that I can prevent the boat rusting from the inside out. While the boat is stripped it is the best opportunity to do the best job I can.. but I've been hesitating for way too long. I've started grinding off what seems to be the bitumen. As I've seen in some posts the best prep is bare steel, and I really want to do the best I can. I have time but not so much money. Any advice much appreciated. Any knowledge about Micaceous Iron Oxide also would help a lot (can't seem to find much info about its relation with rust or bitumen, whether its best on bare steel etc) Many thanks, Sam (I would like to share a discovery of angle technique: I often see the lament of wire wheels getting clogged with bitumen, or making it too hot and smearing it. I've found it quite effective to hold the grinder so its practically tickling the bitumen, or tap it lightly... it takes it off really quickly. Also best to only spend a few seconds per patch so it doesnt get too hot, and of course better to do on a cool day. Also, after a few minutes, where even the tapping is simply smearing... have a scrap of metal near by and periodically clean the grinder with it. I have been using the same wire wheel on many metres of bitumen with this method. Also, I have seen warnings of taking off the good metal: if you are gentle enough, you will see minimal sparks.. at least with the top layer of bitumen there will hardly any sparks at all, but being observant of what splatters out of the grinder is a way to keep metal loss to a minimum... hope this is helpful to someone..!)
  3. This may have been covered elsewhere if so apologies in advance. I have rust spots/bubbles appearing beneath 9 year old paintwork. Before I go the whole hog and repaint, what is the best rust treatment to apply to the cleaned metal. Have tried Kurerust from Halfords but it was next to useless (sorry Halfords) and rust came back worse after 1 winter. I did overcoat with red primer and have been told that as this is porous I might have made it worse. Any advice appreciated.
  4. Hi! I've got an old narrowboat covered in old bitumen. Most of it has been replated but budget ran dry for the front and back, which is a decent thickness anyway. The original plan was to paint a few layers of solvent based red oxide over all of it, then a few layers of bitumen. I'm a bit concerned about painting over the old bitumen. It's really stubborn stuff! Tried to get as much off as possible, but as it's unlikely it will all be removed I'm wondering what the best way would be to go about reblacking it. I've read a little about aluminium based primers, or bitumen sealers. Does anyone know anything about them? Any other suggestions also welcome! Unfortunately no funds for sandblasting or any such luxuries. Grinders just smear it about, and time is short! Any help much appreciated with all the gratitude! Thanks, Sama
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