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Found 10 results

  1. Hi, I'm trying to find out if it's possible to fill pitting on the bottom of a baseplate with weld? I know it's possible on the side plate but not sure about the baseplate. Thanks!
  2. Hi, below are photos of pitting discovered on a hull survey on a 57 ft narrowboat built in 2007. The survey report says there is a small amount of deep pitting on the side plates and some other pitting measuring upto 0.9mm, and the deep pits require back filling with weld. The photos are of both the deep and upto 0.9mm pitting after the hull has been jet sprayed. The hull readings taken are all ok and there's only been minor diminution of plate thickness. I'm trying to get opinions on the severity of the pitting if possible based on the photos. Unfortunately it won't let me upload the individual photos because they're above the maximum allowed size limit so I've had to take a screenshot of all 14 images. Not sure if they will be clear enough. Thanks.
  3. Hi everyone. I just had a survey done on a 56ft cruiser stern. I absolutely love the boat but I'm gutted it came out the sides which are 4ml have 2/2.5 mil pitting around + the base 6ml has areas of 4ml pitting! The surveyor said I can just get them pit weld after shot blasted however other people have said overplate. I'm bit confused at where I go from here. I have a deposit on the boat and need to make a decision wether to proceed or not. It's based in Warwickshire. Does anyone know any where that will such jobs in that area? What would you recommend I do? I already offered 2 grand below asking price which they accepted. However this boat isn't also for the faint hearted. It needs all windows taken out and re-sealing and a paint job which I can do my self little bits of work here and there but the space, layout and interior is amazing. Do I just cut my losses! TIA! Hayley
  4. Evening everyone. New to boating and currently have an offer in on a 1997 Colecraft built to 10/6/4. Could do with some advise on whether or not to proceed with it. The previous owner, who had her from new, seems to have taken great care of her with documentation, invoices, and logging of all expenses over the years. However the more I read up about it, the more concerned I am about corrosion on the hull, particularly to the base plate. This excerpt comes from the survey: The base plate was originally fabricated using 10.0mm plate (nominal). Ultrasonic measurements showed the base plate to be between 10.0mm to 8.6mm reducing to 7.5mm at the aft outer edges. Pitting was widespread at up to 2.1mm. Is this level of corrosion typical for a boat of this age? The asking priced of £54k seems steep if remedial work may be needed sooner rather than later. Will follow up with the surveyor on Monday, who didn't make any recommendations relating to this, but keen to get some other opinions too. For what it is worth, the side plate has some pitting to 1mm and there is currently no galvanic isolator fitted, which I would do before connecting to shore power again. Many thanks! Hamish
  5. Hello, So I'm thinking of buying my first canal boat, and I'm a self confessed newbie and would really appreciate any advice. My reason for buying is I grew up on sailing boats and I love being on and around the water - this boat is currently docked in a marina in the city centre and why spend hundreds on a water front studio when I can stay on a lovely boat. I'd also love to meet the community and generally enjoy the lifestyle. The boat I'm looking at is valued last year at 35k for insurance purposes. It's 60ft from 1996. She was also shot blasted, 2-pack epoxy coated including base plate and had 12 new anodes fitted in 2018. So the boat was lifted out last year and they didn't get any work/plating done - the seller assures me that he wasn't told of any work that needed doing. We agreed on a price (aprrox 30k), with the agreement that I get a survey, and if there's any work that needs doing after the survey up to £2k, I'll split the cost here. If it's north of 2k, I'll get my 10% deposit back (which I haven't paid yet) and pull out of the sale because I would struggle to pay much more. The seller seems like a good character, and in the interest of a quick sale (he almost sold it in July and the buyer backed out last minute), he's knocked a further 2k off the price agreed if I do not get a survey and move in this month. Me, being in my 20s, I can't afford to buy this outright so I'll be getting a loan, so this is quite attractive. The present anodes will need to be replaced within 6-12 months, which will cost about 500 quid and need a lift out, so from that perspective it makes sense to get it lifted out for a survey now. On the other hand it would save me money on rent moving in quick, and over the summer I might put it on airbnb over the weekends whilst I'm off in my van rock climbing, which could allow me to live rent free for some of the year. Do you have any advice? Do you think the discount is a good one? Or do you think this is a massive alarm bell for issues underneath? Do you have any advice for ensuring I get my deposit back in the event of a no sale for the given terms? We've drafted a contract, but not through any official board so I don't know how to guarantee it's enforcement. From where I'm sat both ways have their own risks, so I'd be very grateful for any experienced folk to let me know what they'd do.
  6. Moored in a Marina but not using the mains power? Don't imagine for a minute that you are not at risk of galvanic reaction from other people's boats! I was horrified to discover that despite not using the mains supply for more than a few minutes every month, my hull had developed serious pitting causing the value of the boat to sink without trace. The buyer's surveyor said that the hull needed overplating urgently at a cost of some £8,000 to £10,000. The only cause of the reaction I can think of is being bracketed on the Marina by live-aboard boats plugged in permanently to the mains power and possibly not having a galvanic isolator fitted, thus causing the problem with my hull. When last examined (four years ago) the pitting was minimal and the hull was sound - now it is down to 2 to 3mm in places. Sadly I had to cut my losses and accept a seriously low price for the boat. There was no way I could afford to have the overplating done. I had hoped to raise sufficient to make the first few payments on a new Sailaway hull, but those plans have now gone on hold for the foreseeable future. Ah well, we learn from our mistakes and oversights. Maybe I should have gone for a GRP hull instead.
  7. Hi all, I am in the process of buying a narrowboat. I have had a survey done and all readings were looking great. The surveyor did the survey with the boat out the water just before it was blacked. After leaving, the seller jet washed the hull and began the blacking process. I have returned to see the boat a couple of times and due to the large investment am very wary. I am worried about the amount of pitting on the sides of the hull. I am attaching some photos for you all to see and to hopefully get some good advice. Note: I did not feel confident at the end of the survey. Though the readings came out high (see picture) there was just something about the surveyor that didn't instill confidence. Am I worrying over nothing? Or is this a clear 'walk away' case. This is my first boat. Thanks, any advice much appreciated!
  8. I Recently wrote a post trying to determine the builder of a boat I was interested in buying. Turns out it was most likely a colecraft (I emailed pictures accross to them), it also had just a 6mm baseplate but I wasn't worried about that. The surveyor had a look at the hull today...and I'm now a little worried about that 6mm baseplate Turns out the sides are generally ok with some slightly thinner bits on waterline (as expected). Though since 1984 the baseplate (having never been balcked) has slowly been corroding and now it has widespread pitting on two thirds of the baseplate though is better at the front. The worst areas were found to have been 4.2 and 3.2, leaving at worst case 1.2mm of steel . The surveyor recommended overplating 2/3rds of the baseplate and if the sellers account for this and co-operate with the boatyard for the repair costs then I've no problem and would still buy the boat as I like it quite alot. I'd probably put some of my money in to plating the bow end baseplate also just to make it a complete job and put my mind at ease. If they don't I will obviously walk and shrug off the survey costs as 'one of those really annoying things that can't be helped'. I thinks this definitely goes to show however that it is absolutely, 100% worth blacking a baseplate, as there can be no doubt they corrode, (albeit over a long time). I just wondered people's thoughts on the situation, would you take the same stance as me, as long as the sellers come down and overplating is done well then it should all be happy days!?...shouldn't it? Any views appreciated :-) Pete
  9. hello, i am selling a boat and the survey is back and the buyers are saying that it will need to be sand/ grit blasted and epoxy painted as she is pitted and more than expected for a boat of 2.5 years old. What causes pitting? What is the best option to remedy it, ensure the boat doesn't deteriorate rapidly? And is epoxy the same thing as 2pack? It has just recently been cleaned, scraped and blacked with 2 coats of bitumen. she's a 45 ft widebeam. Can you tell me also i) a rough cost for sand/ grit blasting? ii) a rough cost for epoxy 2 pack? i am trying to get a sense of what work is needed and what I can allow for when we re-negotiate the price. Thank you!
  10. Just back from blacking our boat for the first time (40ft live-aboard, 2002 build) and slightly paranoid about electrical corrosion after seeing first hand the amount of pitting on her sides and bottom. There is widespread pitting of 3 or more mm across the baseplate. We cleaned and blacked it all (well except for where she was resting on the bearers), but are now looking to what we can do to prevent further corrosion worsening the state of the hull. We intend to get an isolating transformer to deal with any stray current from the shore line (we are permanently attached at our home mooring) but then I also got to thinking and realised that our mooring is directly beneath overhead power lines (see picture below ...) So what I want to ask is - is it possible/likely that stray current from high voltage power lines could cause electrolytic corrosion to a steel boat hull? If so, how would one measure such a stray voltage and what could be done to insulate the boat from it? (Aside from moving to another mooring, which we are likely going to do anyway as a precautionary measure!) Any insight from the electrically minded much appreciated. CT
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