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Showing results for tags 'installation'.
Found 7 results
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I've frequently been on shore power for the last three years without a GI and when I had my boat blacked recently it showed no ill effects. However I'm now on a new mooring and am thinking that perhaps I've pushed my luck far enough and it's time to get protected. I guess I should put the GI in the earth line downstream of the socket (on the boat) that the shore lead plugs into, but this is the same socket that I plug the inverter into when away from shore power. Will it matter that the inverter will run through a GI when in this configuration?
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Can anyone help? I’m changing my batteries to AGM and need to install a DC/DC charger (CTEK D 250SE, which I have). I’m not sure if my battery is even using a battery charger at the moment. is that possible? I’ve tried to install it but I’m not confident enough to be sure it’s done correctly so I was wondering if any boaters on here have experience with installing this charger? Or if anybody has a number for a boat electrician who can help that wouldn’t break the bank (London, W10 area).
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Hi everyone, I'm new in here an also in the boat world. I've recently bought a wide beam with my partner and now is time to build it inside. I have a couple of questions and perhaps you guys can help me. 1: I'd like to install a hatch but before to do so I'd like to know if I need permission and then it will be ok for the BSS and all this paperwork. 2: I don't like how calorifier works and I'd like to install a water heater boiler LPG room sealed from Forcali o Morco I think I they really good and safe but I don't know if the regulation allows to install it. somebody know if I can do it or if there are better options? Thank you so much for your help Cheers :)
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Hi all, Hopefully a quick question, although judging by other threads on the topic it may not be. I'm replacing the internal ceiling (sorry can't remember the proper name for one on a boat) & the old packing foam style insulation in the boat as it is all a bit tatty and I have a few leaks.....plus when I get the stove installed I think it would be wise not to burn the inside. I think I have to use rockwool as celotex doesn't look like it will bend with the roof shape but either way.....Do I need to prime the inside of the steel before putting in the insulation?and is it worth putting a thin layer of insulation over the wooden battens before putting in the new ceiling? (I don't have the option of spray foam or anything like that for now.) Lovely snow scene outside here....not much to do except for keep ripping the boat apart
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Hi all. This is my first post on the forum, although I have been avidly browsing for a whie. It's a good balance between good practical advice and some very witty humour. To get to the point, I bought a 56' NB in November this year and have decided to fit a Morso squirrel 1410. i am trying to install to the guidelines in the Sliftec document https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=2&ved=0ahUKEwjvsaeegJbYAhWMaFAKHZMzDmIQjBAILzAB&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.soliftec.com%2FBoat%20Stoves%201-page.pdf&usg=AOvVaw3lL3VSFbJtXoT8qzXs8wyr The document states that the stove needs to have the stove fixed to the hearth. The legs on the stove do not have any fixing points. Any pointers as to how to fix the stove will be much appreciated - would a chain bolted to the stove and to an anchor point on the hearth be sufficient (possibly two)? There is also a vent for the cold water tank which will be behind the stove. I am going to put 25mm Cal-sil board behind the stove. Can I just cut a square hole in the Cal-sil and scre the vent cover onto the cal-sil board. If I block off the vent then i fear I will get more condensation on the cold water tank. Any thoughts appreciated. TIA
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Dear Friends, I am planning on replacing my existing stove with a stove from the Chilli Penguin range. The Flue collar on the stove itself is 5". All of the Chandlers I have spoken with only sell 4" or 4.5" flue pipe for inside the cabin. I have two questions really: a) Anyone got experience / opinions about using a 5" > 4.5" adapter and using a 4.5" flue pipe b ) Twin Wall is recommended by BSS 8511 but I think its overkill So Chilli Penguin offer a kit, for a very top price of £793!!! I think by using single wall can get the price down to £220. Speaking to experienced boat chandlers the opinion seems to be that BSS 8511 is really 'recommendations' only when it comes to single / twin wall flues and their relative distances to combustible surfaces. Been using Single wall 5" for two years without any issues. Only reason I cant now use 5" again for the new stove, is that the roof collars don't accept 5" flues (or at least I haven't managed to find any). Just spoken to a boat safety person (who issue the certificates). Frankly shocking how little they seem to know about BSS 8511 or even really any clear advise about how a stove flue / chimney should be constructed. Any advise would be really appreciated, read so many forums, spoken to so many people and reading BSS 8511 and not getting much clarity. many Thanks Stuart
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Hooking up a Victron MultiPlus 2000w 12v Inverter/Charger
Jim Batty posted a topic in Boat Equipment
Our old PowerMaster 1500w Inverter/Charger just blew up (quite dramatically, issuing smoke and flame at 4am). I'm looking to replace it ... probably with a Victron multiplus 2000w 12v Inverter/Charger. (Victron 2000w) Knowing little about electronics and electrics, I'm wondering, Is it a fairly simple matter of unhooking the old PowerMaster (Battery + / Battery - / AC In / AC out / ground wires) and wiring in a new Victron inverter/charger. Or is the Victron much more complicated than that? Also, with the old PowerMaster I was able to configure things like battery bank size, battery type, charging routine, etc. by reading the manual and pushing buttons on the front. Is it the same with the Victron or is it more complicated and really requires a technician? I don't want to bugger up a new, expensive piece of electronics. Anybody have experience hooking up Victrons?
