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Found 19 results

  1. Hello All, I've sold my boat and have just put an offer in on another, It needs tonnes of work doing but I loved the inside and it has a brand new Beta Marine engine. One of the other selling points was it was listed as a 50 foot roger fuller hull, However, after placing my offer I thought i'd better check on the boat listing page and BAM: It's not a Fuller...bugger! Oh well, I still love the boat. Instead its a Barry Jenkins, but I cant find much info on him (in terms of reputation and build quality). I can only see one other topic which was fairly inconclusive so therefore, two questions:
  2. Hi we recently had to have some work on the base of our hull as well as blacking. Our boat has been in the water for 48hrs and the blacking is appearing faded at the base of the hull? For instance where plating has been added is appearing silver through the water. It is along the side of the bank we have been moored but I would have thought if enough blacking was placed it would appear blac for longer than 2 days? Is this normal/ too soon? Can anyone give advice? We paid someone to complete the blacking also.
  3. We are in the process of over plating our swim and a length of the side. We would obviously like to ensure that any further rust damage is limited. We were thinking of using cold galvanized paint on the seams and other areas. Can we black on top of that please. Soon after. Or does anyone recommend a high zinc primer which can be blacked over ASAP. I know it’s a crap time of year to be over plating. Thank you.
  4. As the time draws closer for my ex to sell the house and let me have some dosh comes closer I have gone from purposeful browsing and and info gathering to "Could I live on this boat?". Am seriously looking at an ex hire boat called Sphynx http://www.norburywharfltd.co.uk/boats-for-sale/ I would hav to move the inside about a bit to get it as I want it but can do that in stages. My immediate concern is that it says "Insulation: Unknown" in the brochure. I am only mildly concerned about the hull as it appears to have been very well cared for by the company. Does anyone know
  5. Hi! I've got an old narrowboat covered in old bitumen. Most of it has been replated but budget ran dry for the front and back, which is a decent thickness anyway. The original plan was to paint a few layers of solvent based red oxide over all of it, then a few layers of bitumen. I'm a bit concerned about painting over the old bitumen. It's really stubborn stuff! Tried to get as much off as possible, but as it's unlikely it will all be removed I'm wondering what the best way would be to go about reblacking it. I've read a little about aluminium based primers, or bitumen seal
  6. I Recently wrote a post trying to determine the builder of a boat I was interested in buying. Turns out it was most likely a colecraft (I emailed pictures accross to them), it also had just a 6mm baseplate but I wasn't worried about that. The surveyor had a look at the hull today...and I'm now a little worried about that 6mm baseplate Turns out the sides are generally ok with some slightly thinner bits on waterline (as expected). Though since 1984 the baseplate (having never been balcked) has slowly been corroding and now it has widespread pitting on two thirds of the baseplate thoug
  7. I have been looking at different river & canal boats that are for sale & I came across a barge that was listed as having an iron hull. Does anyone have any advice or knowledge they can share with me about the benefits or drawbacks of an iron hull compared with steel? Thank you, Vanessa
  8. Hello everyone, I'm not sure if this is in the right place, I've had a good look around but haven't seen this mentioned elsewhere. Sorry if I missed it! I am planning on buying a grp cruiser as a liveaboard. I have looked at a number of boats and think I'm pretty sold on a seamaster 30. I have seen one in particular that I really like however one thing I have just found out about her worries me. She hasn't been out of the water since 2009. Should this worry me? It seems like a long time for things to start going iffy! I've read lots of horror stories of osmosis. My main w
  9. Good evening, Here are some pics of my bilge after scraping and applying Kurust to turn the rust into something else? from bow to stern each section gets worse, the front 3 sections seem good to acceptable but the last section I lifted a good Kilogram of rusted debris, when I put the rust inhibitor down it poured into a hole never to be seen again! Which leads to me to the idea, can I put a plate over it? is that an acceptable fix? is it necessary? and affordable? (will be done by welder) (it is already over plated on the outside) will it need a support strut or would a plate alone suffi
  10. I viewed a 70 ft narrow boat the other day that is made up of two hulls welded together. I think it was a Butty that then had a motor stern put on it. The thing is where the hulls join there is a slight bend in the boat. If you look straight down the boat's roof from the bow to the stern it bananas slightly. The owner said the 'twist' in the hull is due to it constantly being knocked bashed a bit in the same place when entering locks, but that doesn't sound feasible to me. Just wondered what others in theses forums, with a lot more experience than I, thought...? Thank you.
  11. Hello Canal World Newbie here, considering buying my first narrowboat. I have some questions that you might help with but all observations appreciated. REQUIREMENTS extended holiday cruising (summer mostly but winter too) 2 people + 2 guest berths budget ~£30K PREFERENCES (not essential) trad generous well deck portholes DECENT HULL I intend to get a pre-sale survey but as these are expensive I am stuck wondering how to select which boat to survey. I would rather spend on a decent hull (over a fancy interior). However
  12. Hi i am fairly new to boating me and my wife have a small 16ft microplues cabin cruiser with a Yamaha 9.9hp 4 stroke outboard engine which we have been using on the Trent up to as far as Gainsbourgh but we are hoping to travil to brough on the humber about 7 miles from trent falls and was wondering if any one as done this before ? i understand that correct tide calculations and having the tide pushing us is very important and we are of course equipped with lifejackets, VHF radio, and up to date charts of the Humber and upper trent. would this be doable ? we get a steady 6.5 knots at crusing sp
  13. My hull needs a bit of welding doing. Back in the last century i used to be a welder, but never time served and never qualified. whilst i can easily do the welding on the boat, the yard (quite rightly) won't let me unless i have insurance. Does anyone know where i may be able to get said insurance to cover me carrying out "hot works" in the yard?
  14. Hi All, If you use 2-pack epoxy primer (post sandbalsting), do you have to put 2-pack epoxy over the top of this when you come to re-do the hull? (I know the lifetime is meant to be alot longer therefore the need to re-do should be less). And, am I right in thinking you have to put 2-pack expoxy onto bare steel, therefore to re-do the hull you would need to sandblast again and re-apply? thanks!
  15. I came across this site a few months ago and thought I might share it with you. There are many interesting and historic photos of Hull Docks and associated shipping, together with a lot of photos of the barges which traded on the Humber, Trent and associated rivers. Enjoy the photos and I am sure it will help to while away a few minutes instead of getting on with those chores ! http://thedocksofhull.weebly.com/ Howard
  16. Hi, I have just looked at a 36ft Springer (perhaps early 80's) narrowboat for sale, priced at 10,000, as a project boat. No survey yet - owners have had her for 3 years, in those years they have replated on both front and stern after a survey, and blacked and annoded once (now due for renewal) The project: 1. Pre-purchase: Survey + It is due blacking, annodes and engine service (potentially the costs of this, and any replating needed, could be deducted from 10,000 boat cost) 2. Interior Hull: Need to create access in the floor to the interior hull as it there is currently
  17. Hi. Just found this site! Can anyone suggest what to use for blacking the hull of our boat? We have had her four years now, and want to take her out to black the hull later in the year Any tips or recommendations would be gratefully received many thanks
  18. Could I ask for some advice please from some members, I have seen a 30 foot boat that I am interested in but it only has a five mil thickness of steel on the hull, it has lost 0.3 mil in the past 30 years, should I be concerned or should I avoid this boat and continue looking, I'm also looking for somebody that can point me in the right direction to a person that can install side hatches in place of the windows, I remember some time ago there was a discussion here that mentioned a boat engineers name, can anybody help Many thanks
  19. Below is a chart from my hull survey. In this scenario I want to imagine things are as bad as they can possibly be. The boat is in mooring and does not leave the marina. Water is present between the over plating and the original hull, The mooring electricity is badly wired and electricity is leaking in to the canal. The weather has been terrible, it is Winter and the river continues to freeze and thaw The boat next to me is used a lot and every time they moor up they crash in to my boat. How long can my boat last???
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