Search the Community
Showing results for tags 'hot water savings'.
Found 2 results
-
Hi all 👋, first post on here but probably one of many, I'm currently looking into the heating system I am going to install on my widebeam i was hoping you could take a look and tell me what you think and if it all looks ok. (Heating sorce: Solid fuel fire and diesel water heater Heating up - radiators, under floor heating and hot water) I am thinking of installing the bubble b1c1 corner stove with back boiler, also what are peoples thoughts on the Prity AM 12 ( https://fireplacesforhome.com/Wood-Burning-Stove-Corner-Model-Fireplace-Log-Burner-Solid-Fuel-Prity-AM-12kw ) multifuel stove? And also a webasto diesel water heater. All my heating appliances are going to run to the NRG zone 5 manifold wich does allow thermosyphon , I plan to have 4x radiators, underfloor heating and calorifier attached. The diagram is missing the PRV and the pipes from the back boiler to the heating manifold will be in 28mm. My biggest worry is the thermosyphon safety as it is going to run to the heating manifold so i dont have any heat leak. Any input would be appreciated. Kind regards Brad I've linked the NRG zone let me know what you think to using this as I can't see any post speaking about this or any manifold. https://www.nrgawareness.com/product/nrg-zone-4-5-6-32-32-28/
-
As my calorifier is in the engine bay, it may as well be outside on the bank, the heat loss is unbelievable. Anyway, I decided to add another layer of insulation to the existing already applied to the cylinder from new. This is how I got on. This is the cylinder as it is now, I've given the floor beneath a good coat of paint and the cylinder will sit on a board. I decided on using a sheet of celotex or similar brand of insulation, so bought a 2400x1200 sheet. 25mm thick. First thing to do was to get it to go around the tank, by cutting slits every 25mm and 20mm deep its possible to make it bend. First piece going on cylinder Another piece was made and all held in place using string and an old ratchet strap, cut outs for pipework and immersion heater were done, insulation pulled up tight and taped with duct tape to hold in place. The top of the cylinder was filled in using circles of insulation, with varying size of hole in the middle and the odd split here an there to assist with fitting. Finally, I wanted to give it a bit of protection so encapsulated the insulation using a sheet of MDPE 1mm thick. Over lapped the joints and used short fat domed head st/steel screws to attach. So has it kept the water hotter ? you bet ! didn't conduct any temp recording experiments, (not that sad ) but there is now hot water for a lot longer. Hope this may help someone. Bazza ETA : During the cutting of insulation there is a lot of dust produced, all safety precautions must be taken, dust mask and goggles are a minimum as worn by me when cutting.
