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Showing results for tags 'heating'.
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My heating system is a Webasto Thermo Top C, it runs x2 radiators and x1 towel rack (rad)... System uses a 50/50 mixture of antifreeze & water to run through the rads. The system is connected also to a colirifier to heat water... Currently my webasto was reconditioned as the inner burner was clogged with burnt fuel. Im guessing when the boat was taken from the water it drew dirty fuel from the bottom of the tank. Webasto has been reinstalled by myself in the engine bay, all pipe work is 22mm with 15mm T offs to rads so within recommended frame work. Webasto turns over using when using control unit an fires up, inline fuel pump seems to work... Could feel coolant/water circulation through pipe work to unit. Webasto goes through start up process makes all usual noises but eventually sounds strange. Slight smoke from unit near exhaust and unit gets hot as hell. I dont trust leaving it on in this state. Even bled rads and air seems to be released. Right now i am confused with the whole set up and dont undertand why it is not working. I thought could be electrical related issue but usually a webasto would not even fire up if it doesn't receive its 12v's so again this is why I'm stumped... Any ideas or know anyone good with these systems? Getting to winter soon and would be nice to have the rads working
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Liveaboard on a 60ft widebeam for a year and looking for some advice re heating. Managed to scrape through last winter and hoping to get my heating sorted out for the upcoming! Our boat (2007) came with a Webasto thermtop-c water diesel heater, with 4 radiators inside the boat. in spring this year the heater stopped working (Would start up and then stop within about 15 seconds). Anyone experienced with these, is it worth getting the Webasto serviced and going again for heating and water in the winter, or should we look to replace it with a new diesel heater, e.g. the Planar models other threads have discussed? Any advice would be much appreciated. We don't have a stove currently, would that be a better use of money for a heating system? Thanks -
Hi all 👋, first post on here but probably one of many, I'm currently looking into the heating system I am going to install on my widebeam i was hoping you could take a look and tell me what you think and if it all looks ok. (Heating sorce: Solid fuel fire and diesel water heater Heating up - radiators, under floor heating and hot water) I am thinking of installing the bubble b1c1 corner stove with back boiler, also what are peoples thoughts on the Prity AM 12 ( https://fireplacesforhome.com/Wood-Burning-Stove-Corner-Model-Fireplace-Log-Burner-Solid-Fuel-Prity-AM-12kw ) multifuel stove? And also a webasto diesel water heater. All my heating appliances are going to run to the NRG zone 5 manifold wich does allow thermosyphon , I plan to have 4x radiators, underfloor heating and calorifier attached. The diagram is missing the PRV and the pipes from the back boiler to the heating manifold will be in 28mm. My biggest worry is the thermosyphon safety as it is going to run to the heating manifold so i dont have any heat leak. Any input would be appreciated. Kind regards Brad I've linked the NRG zone let me know what you think to using this as I can't see any post speaking about this or any manifold. https://www.nrgawareness.com/product/nrg-zone-4-5-6-32-32-28/
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I have an old Mikuni heating system on my boat that is working ok (despite being 20 years old!) and was controlled by a Danfoss TP5 programmer/timer. Unfortunately the Danfoss TP5 programmer has broken (the metal clip that holds the batteries in place came away when I was replacing the battery). This model of programmer is no longer made by Danfoss but a few are available on ebay but it seems sensible to replace it with a 'current' device. Couple of questions: - Has anybody replaced a Danfloss TP5 unit and if so what 'modern' manufacturer/model programmer was used? - Is replacing the programmer something any electrician/competent diy'er can do or does it need to be done by a heating engineer as it needs to be 'configured' with the Mikuni unit in some way? The good news is at least this didn't happen at the start of winter so I have time to sort out a replacement! Any thoughts/ideas gladly received. Thanks in advance.
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Hi Were looking to install a heating/ hot water system so Webasto or Eberspacher? No dodgy Russian or Chinese systems though!😀
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I have been adding a few blog posts on what we did to protect our boat while we are away in the winter, we are based in a marina with power, but decided to fit a frost protection thermostat to control our diesel heating system. 1. Frost Protection options with our Canal Boat 2. Winterizing final things 3. Eberspächer D4W Diesel Powered Frost Protection – Update 4. New Heating Thermostat and Isolation Switches I hope this is of help, we spent a long time looking for the most efficient method with what we had available at the time, always interested to hear what others would recommend. Thanks David www.floydtilla.co.uk
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Hello! We are looking at purchasing our second Narrowboat, one vessel that we have viewed has Hurricane Diesel Hot Water Central Heating System. When tested it was quite noisy, does anyone have experience with this type of system?
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Hello All, I have just bought a 60' narrowboat fitted with an eberspacher unit (d4 or 5). It currently supplies the calorifier, bathroom towel radiator and two electric fan heaters. Unfortunately during its transport the pipes to a fan heater fractured (I think they had been kinked to breaking point previously) and the system is now drained down. I have no experience of using fan heaters and before I go and buy a replacement I just wondered whether to replace it with a radiator. Anybody any experience of both so as to make a comparison? FYI there is a solid fuel stove also. Thanks, Andy
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Can anybody help me sort this out? When I bought my boat it came complete with a non functioning Eberspacher D5W. I was told it needed a control board and we agreed a discount on the basis that it wasn’t working and that the part has being sought then when it arrived it would be forwarded to me. However when it did arrive some 3 months later the vendor said I would have to pay for it which is not what I thought we had agreed. I thought the discount was for my inconvenience and the fact I would have to fit it myself or pay someone to do it. Long story short I still have a non-functioning Eberspacher. I have posted 3 pictures of what I have. I do not need automation or remote control or a timer, I am happy to turn it on and off manually. It would just make more sense to me to be able to brew up a tank of hot water without running a 2 litre Diesel engine for a couple of hours. As you can see from the pictures I have a heater, a wall mounted box and a pull switch on a knob. When I connect the heater to the box with the plug and socket by the heater unit (both present and correct) and turn it on nothing happens. So can anyone tell me what is missing and or what I need to do to make this kit functional. In anticipation of your useful advice and replies, Thank you. David
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Hi, i'm new to the forum, fitting out my own boat currently! My horizontal calorifier is fitted and fed by a webasto and the engine take off hoses for heat, twin coil, and connected to accumulator and expansion tank just after the hot water out pipe from the calorifier. I only get 2 litres or so of hot water before it becomes cold, checked and bled the coolant side of the circuit, all fine, adjusted the thermostatic mixer valve to make sure it's not all cold mixing in. Water does come through from the hot tank, just a very small amount, so unlikely to be a blockage as water is flowing from the tank...im at a loss, any ideas??
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We have just bought our second hand nb and everything seems fine. We are a bit confused about the radiator heating. The setup seems standard. 2coil calorifier ( engine and webasto). Both webasto and engine produce lashings of hot water but only the webasto heats the radiators. Should the engine heat the radiators by convection from the calorifier as there is no separate circulation pump or do we need to operate the webasto and use its pump and rely on it throttling back when the engine is running. I have checked there seem to no valves shut etc. Thanks from a newbie!
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Hi, My domestic hot water is lukewarm at best when my immersion heater turned on. I'm guessing the element is in need of changing and I think I understand how to change one (there's plenty of tutorials online which seem relatively straight forward to follow). However, I was wondering if anyone has done this themselves? Any pointers/advice? The only thing that I am unsure about is a gas canister which is connected to the system. I'm guessing this regulates the pressure to and from the hot water tank? See pic Thanks a lot, George
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Hi, Can anyone recommend a good firewood supplier that delivers in Northampton? (Seasoned hardwoods) Thank you! George
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Hello lovely boaters, I've been fitting a Webasto Top C unit on my boat and today was the day it was supposed to all come together and work. As I expected it did not happen. After connecting up to the battery bank the unit would make some noise, as if it was sucking air through, I could feel the air coming out of the exhaust, no fumes. Then these diesel pump would start making a clicking noise, which got faster and faster, the unit speeds up and sounds like it's about to kick in and then it just doesn't. I did this 4/5 times hoping that it just needed a few attempts to get the diesel into the unit. Still no joy. Am I missing something obvious? It's a reconditioned unit and came with all the parts needed, anything missing I bought with Spencers recommendation. I'm hoping that I'm just being a Muppet and that I'm forgetting something simple. Please help :) going to post in a few places to gather the greatest amount of boater knowledge. If no one can help then I will look for a webasto engeneer to come and help out. Thank you all x
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Hello lovely boaters, I'm most of the way through installing my heating system, I have a 75L calorifier which will be heated by the Webasto Thermo Top C. The Webasto will then go on to heat a load of rads. My question is, does the header tank have to be at the highest point. I fitted it without giving any real thought and now after thinking about it I would imagine it needs to sit higher than the highest radiator. Is that right or can I get away with having it around 30cm lower than the highest point in the system. The header tank is currently in the engine bay, nice and out of sight. I will have to move it inside the utility room if it needs to be higher, no real issue just a pain in my arse, a pain I would rather avoid. Help is much appreciated. Beau
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hi I like a boat but capped off fin radiators suggest they weren’t working well so in addition to the solid fuel stove . I’m thinking of adding back boiler to stove if possible connected to radiators and a diesel heating system too. Would anyone have rough idea of possible cost as a retrofit. Thanks
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As the winter is quickly approaching, I'm working on installing a wood stove on my stoveless (yet) boat. I'm restricted by price and size (the smaller the better). My question is from two parts: 1. What are your experiences with burning wood in smoke control areas? This seems to be a nice and cheap stove, but it is not defra approved: https://www.gr8fires.co.uk/mazona-signet-4-kw-multi-fuel-wood-burning-stove?nosto=nosto-page-category2 2. The Hobbit stove and Hobbit SE (smoke exempt) seem to be good stoves too. It looks like they have the same specs, but Hobbit SE is defra approved and allowed to burn wood in smoke control areas, while standard hobbit is not. However, Hobbit SE is £70 more expensive. Does anybody have an idea if there is going to be an actual difference between the two stoves, or it is simply the certification that puts one stove at a higher price range? The link to both stoves: https://salamanderstoves.com/the-hobbit-stove Also I'm open to any suggestions about other stoves! Thanks!
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Hi Everyone, Does anyone make back boilers to fit small stoves? Width would need to be less than 280mm. If not could I just use a zigzag of 28mm copper pipe inside the stove. I have access to a mag drill so cutting the holes should be relatively simple. I'm replacing my broken morso squirrel with back boiler with a slightly smaller 2nd hand cast iron stove and would like to fit a back boiler to it as I already have the pipe work and radiators. The squirrel boiler is just a little too large.
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Hi there, I’ve got bit of an issue with my Webasto Heater. It’s a 90 St version (9.1Kw). It’s been working well for years and I never had any issues with it. I always made sure it was working hard, I would only switch it on for 1,5 – 2 hrs max at the time, so I doubt it was ever going to “low flame” setting. Since last week it’s been switching off due to overheating. I vented the system, flushed it, vented again (numerus times) but still the same things happen. I checked the water pump, it seems all good, there’s a good flow and I cannot see anything wrong with it. What basically happens is Webasto runs for 20-25 minutes (sometimes longer, sometimes shorter) and then it seems that the coolant after the unit boils and the unit switches itself off. I think that it generally heats up the entire systems quicker than usual, it is quite of a big system, 6 rads, towel rail and a calorifier – give or take 100 lts of coolant so it was normally taking around 1hr or more for the rads to get proper warm, this now happens after 20 -25 mins. Any help will be appreciated!
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Hi All, I'm a relative newbie to narrowboating (one year living aboard at Peartree Bridge Marina in Milton Keynes, and cruising since last July) , and a complete DIY ninnie, and am seeking some advice regarding my Morso Squirrel back boiler. I love the stove, and relied on it throughout my first winter in the marina, but the back boiler part, even when it was working, was disappointing at best. It allegedly drove two small rads in the bathroom and bedroom, at the opposite end of my 57 foot boat, but even when it was working great, the results in the radiators were disappointing. I tried bleeding them, think I succeeded, but they still stayed tepid at best, even with a roaring fire going in the saloon. Also, the previous owners had the water circulated by a mains operated pump. That was fine when I was Marina bound, but as I am cruising away from marinas now, I needed this replacing with a 12 volt pump, which I had done whilst in MK as part of a general refit of the boat for it's new post Marina life. Since the replacement, the thing has never worked properly: either the pump speed has to be set so high it is screaming very loudly, or the water is pushed round so sluggishly that the system starts - 'kettling' - is that the word? - Making scary 'bags of hammers' noises at the stove, anyway, like it's about to explode, whilst vomiting central heating fluid from the expansion tank all over the engine room. So scary is all this in fact, that I've decided I can't risk using the stove at all til this problem gets fixed. I've found it impossible to find anyone competent to sort it out in my new area of operations around Burnley, Lancashire, on the Leeds and Liverpool, and with money now being very tight, I thought the simplest thing to do in any case would be to de-commission the back boiler part myself, reversibly, in place. What I had in mind was emptying the central heating system (though I don't know how to do that either), leaving the input and output valves to the boiler open, and simply cut the copper pipes to them, taking out about an inch, and capping off the pipes, so I can just use the stove without fear of explosion or central heating fluid disasters. My thinking is that if I leave the valves on the Squirrel open and the stove side pipes of the boiler uncapped, air can expand and contract safely through the boiler during use, and I can just use the stove as if it had no back boiler. That way, any future owner who wants to make use of the rads can simply hook up the pipes again, and do battle with the pump. Is this a safe plan? Will the stove operate safely without fluid in the back boiler? Will the boat be okay for the BSS exam if I do this? What should I think about regarding making sure the operation is reversible? All advice appreciated. Alexa
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Hi, I’m hoping someone can help answer this as numerous google searches have failed. Pfft Technology! Basically we’ve set our hearts on a heritage style range which we’ve seen can run on red diesel, we just don’t know how?? And whether we can buy an oil fired range (much, much more affordable) and it run on red diesel - convert it or something I assume? I’m hoping someone can enlighten us...please pass on your knowledge Thanks in advance
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Hey guys, I'm in the middle of trying to get my Mikuni back in action for winter and need to refill the rad system (was drained for winter by previous owner about 2 years ago). I have access to inlet and outlet pipes and the header tank etc... I was assuming just a garden hose into the header tank, and adding antifreeze, but that's where my knowledge would end and you know what they say about assuming! How do I go about:1. Flushing and refilling the system (I know how to bleed the rads here)?2. What additives should I be using?3. Any tips?
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Hi All, Due to a school-boy error (pressure from elsewhere to re-fit the interior in quick time) I've found myself needing to re-install the central heating on my 70' narrow-boat with limited access to run conventional pipework to radiators. Having owned a number of domestic properties which had microbore radiator plumbing, I was exploring the option of using it (the later plastic variety, not copper) on the boat. Anyone have experience, good or bad of doing this? It would solve my problem as no joints in awkward places would be required between manifold and radiators. Stephen
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Hi, we have a Kabola E7 series which we now have up and running. There’s a bit of a safety issue though, which I’m not sure how to fix... Every now and again the power cuts out in the marina. When this happens, the circulation pump stops working and the water is left boiling with nowhere to go. Would an overboil protection decide solve this problem? There’s isn’t currently one fitted. Thanks, jo
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Hello, we have an old Kabola, the E7 model, on our boat. We have yet to get it running. We know that the diesel is reaching the regulator fine and the boiler lights but it burns out very quickly, after a few minutes. When I look at the parts inside the boiler and compare with the photos in the instruction manual, it looks like there might be parts missing. Can anyone with experience of using one of these boilers advise? photos below comparing our boiler with the pictures in the manual. Many thanks
