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  1. My heating system is a Webasto Thermo Top C, it runs x2 radiators and x1 towel rack (rad)... System uses a 50/50 mixture of antifreeze & water to run through the rads. The system is connected also to a colirifier to heat water... Currently my webasto was reconditioned as the inner burner was clogged with burnt fuel. Im guessing when the boat was taken from the water it drew dirty fuel from the bottom of the tank. Webasto has been reinstalled by myself in the engine bay, all pipe work is 22mm with 15mm T offs to rads so within recommended frame work. Webasto turns over using when using control unit an fires up, inline fuel pump seems to work... Could feel coolant/water circulation through pipe work to unit. Webasto goes through start up process makes all usual noises but eventually sounds strange. Slight smoke from unit near exhaust and unit gets hot as hell. I dont trust leaving it on in this state. Even bled rads and air seems to be released. Right now i am confused with the whole set up and dont undertand why it is not working. I thought could be electrical related issue but usually a webasto would not even fire up if it doesn't receive its 12v's so again this is why I'm stumped... Any ideas or know anyone good with these systems? Getting to winter soon and would be nice to have the rads working
  2. Liveaboard on a 60ft widebeam for a year and looking for some advice re heating. Managed to scrape through last winter and hoping to get my heating sorted out for the upcoming! Our boat (2007) came with a Webasto thermtop-c water diesel heater, with 4 radiators inside the boat. in spring this year the heater stopped working (Would start up and then stop within about 15 seconds). Anyone experienced with these, is it worth getting the Webasto serviced and going again for heating and water in the winter, or should we look to replace it with a new diesel heater, e.g. the Planar models other threads have discussed? Any advice would be much appreciated. We don't have a stove currently, would that be a better use of money for a heating system? Thanks
  3. Hi all ūüĎč, first post on here but probably one of many, I'm currently looking into the heating system I am going to install on my widebeam i was hoping you could take a look and tell me what you think and if it all looks ok. (Heating sorce: Solid fuel fire and diesel water heater Heating up - radiators, under floor heating and hot water) I am thinking of installing the bubble b1c1 corner stove with back boiler, also what are peoples thoughts on the Prity AM 12 ( https://fireplacesforhome.com/Wood-Burning-Stove-Corner-Model-Fireplace-Log-Burner-Solid-Fuel-Prity-AM-12kw ) multifuel stove? And also a webasto diesel water heater. All my heating appliances are going to run to the NRG zone 5 manifold wich does allow thermosyphon , I plan to have 4x radiators, underfloor heating and calorifier attached. The diagram is missing the PRV and the pipes from the back boiler to the heating manifold will be in 28mm. My biggest worry is the thermosyphon safety as it is going to run to the heating manifold so i dont have any heat leak. Any input would be appreciated. Kind regards Brad I've linked the NRG zone let me know what you think to using this as I can't see any post speaking about this or any manifold. https://www.nrgawareness.com/product/nrg-zone-4-5-6-32-32-28/
  4. I have an old Mikuni heating system on my boat that is working ok (despite being 20 years old!) and was controlled by a Danfoss TP5 programmer/timer. Unfortunately the Danfoss TP5 programmer has broken (the metal clip that holds the batteries in place came away when I was replacing the battery). This model of programmer is no longer made by Danfoss but a few are available on ebay but it seems sensible to replace it with a 'current' device. Couple of questions: - Has anybody replaced a Danfloss TP5 unit and if so what 'modern' manufacturer/model programmer was used? - Is replacing the programmer something any electrician/competent diy'er can do or does it need to be done by a heating engineer as it needs to be 'configured' with the Mikuni unit in some way? The good news is at least this didn't happen at the start of winter so I have time to sort out a replacement! Any thoughts/ideas gladly received. Thanks in advance.
  5. Hi Were looking to install a heating/ hot water system so Webasto or Eberspacher? No dodgy Russian or Chinese systems though!ūüėÄ
  6. I have been adding a few blog posts on what we did to protect our boat while we are away in the winter, we are based in a marina with power, but decided to fit a frost protection thermostat to control our diesel heating system. 1. Frost Protection options with our Canal Boat 2. Winterizing final things 3. Ebersp√§cher D4W Diesel Powered Frost Protection ‚Äď Update 4. New Heating Thermostat and Isolation Switches I hope this is of help, we spent a long time looking for the most efficient method with what we had available at the time, always interested to hear what others would recommend. Thanks David www.floydtilla.co.uk
  7. Hello! We are looking at purchasing our second Narrowboat, one vessel that we have viewed has Hurricane Diesel Hot Water Central Heating System. When tested it was quite noisy, does anyone have experience with this type of system?
  8. We have installed 500W of solar (with another 250W panel to be fitted). We have an MPPT charge controller (MorningStar TS-60) and these sunny days, it takes no time to fill our batteries, especially as our fridge is out of action. I'm wondering if there's a straightforward (inexpensive) way to divert the excess power to our immersion heater to heat the water tank? I think it's a 1kw immersion heater. We have a 1kw inverter also. I guess a more low powered immersion heater would be needed?
  9. I'm currently fitting out a 64ft narrowboat and have reached the point of fitting out the plumbing. I'm concentrating on the fresh water system, of which im adopting a very similar (if not identical) structure to C-Warm's schematic drawing...(see image link below) http://www.tnorrismarine.co.uk/images/cal1.JPG This system on paper looks pretty straight forward to me, I've sourced most of the parts yet connecting them together is a mystery to me. I'll be using push fit Hep2O which is relatively basic to fit, my concern lies more with installing the main components like the calorifier, water pump, accumulator tank, shower, valves etc... Has anyone installed a fresh water system and can guide me in the right direction? P.s - I'm very new to boating and unfamiliar with plumbing 'know how', hence theoretic or jargon related advice won't really help me, im much more apt at learning in a practical and visual method, I would be truly grateful if you could cater to that medium of information, regardless any help would be very much appreciated. Thanks in advance.
  10. I'm thinking of getting a heater (electric oil filled) but what size would be recommended. I don't want the biggest, I want the smallest I can get away with, maybe around 750watts Its not to heat the boat but just as frost protection I have a 57ft narrowboat, all steel with double glazed windows. most of the pipework is boxed in by cupboards or other fittings so not sure how effective a heater would even be. Water store is in the bow. I don't want to drain down as I am on the boat at least 3 days a week Any comments?
  11. Spent the weekend on the boat. As its unoccupied the rest of the week it was a little chilly so heating was bunged on. We have recently bought this boat (second hand), so do not have much experience of all the fixtures and fittings and we keep getting little surprises. The heating ran OK Friday Evening. Saturday evening, the heating was back running (hard to miss, the Hurricane is somewhat loud) but after about 30 mins the radiators were just luke warm and similar on the calorifier. No error codes on the control panel. Continuous running of the Hurricane. Still not much output. Flame bright and yellow when looking through the inspection window, though not uniform and looking "spluttery". It was dark at the time or I would have spotted the next bit earlier.... Outside with a torch and look at the exhaust. Considerable smoke and signs of unburnt fuel in the exhaust. D'Oh! So shut it down, and time to investigate. Not had this apart before. Find the 1000 hour service info on the web which was the best information I could find at the time.... The Hurricane is a fairly standard design air blown siphon nozzle diesel burner, so the nozzle seemed a likely problem. Compressor and fan all running, Air inlet hose not blocked, exhaust appeared clear of any blockage. Time to dismantle...... Nozzle out (Delavan 30609-2). Stripped nozzle and found small piece of what appeared to be brown rubber, about 2mm across, but nothing else, all very clean. Air hose to the nozzle checked and clear, compressor inlet filter looked brand new, fuel filter in the nozzle holder appeared clean. The hours counter on the heater has just got to 80, so very little use since new (2006). Rebuild it all and try again, though not very hopeful. Same result. Sunday morning. Still think its a nozzle/spray related issue, so take out the compressor. Standard diaphragm affair so take off the head. Fail to find any information on the web (its a "Thomas" compressor from the US). Obviously has an inlet valve, visible as a brown rubber mushroom head, but no sign of the discharge valve apart from some rubber sticking to the edges of the hole where it should be. The compressor head is a plastic affair and appears to be of two parts glued or molded together, with the head of the discharge valve inaccessible inside, so no chance of fixing it easily. Luckily the boat is at Calcutts who are Hurricane dealers. With no great expectation of success I head to the marina shop, discuss the issue and:- Yes these compressors are known to fail, especially early ones (like ours) No they did not have a direct spare in stock (Hurricane no longer supply them due to reliability issues) Yes there is a replacement, may have one in stock but £300++ needing various parts to make it fit. By now its lunchtime and I agree to come back after lunch when they will have had time to find the various parts. When I get back I find better news, they have a later version compressor head with stainless steel reed valves for a much better price of £40. Brilliant service from Calcutts! Back to the boat, rebuild compressor, fire it up and Yippee it all works ok. Thanks Calcutts, saved the day and my wallet. Chris
  12. Hello forgive me if this is mentioned elsewhere but I could not find it if it is. Currently my hot water comes from the engine via a calorifier it's a twin coil so I plan to link up to the heating system when I fit a stove with a back boiler in the spring as all plumbing rads and expantion tank are already in place. I was originally going to put a solar water heater in line as a friend made his own and found it very successfull but it would have ment disconnecting either the engine feed or the stove feed or having an elaborate system of valves and stopcocks so that I was not heating the world via the solar collector on the roof. So plan b as I've recently upgraded my solar panels I have been left with three 190 watt 36 volt panels that are sitting redundent one that has broken glass due to a poor tree felling exorcise. My plan is to put two of these panels in series 70 volt total and connect them to a suitable heating element for the calorifier so sunny days will result in water heating which is what needed for the summer as stove will not be running. I could just link up the element to my current solar controllers load function so when the batteries are charged the eccess would go in to water heating but I wanted to keep the systems separate in case something went wrong and discharged my bank. That why I've decided to use two of the currently redundant panels to keep the systems seperate. Now my question is (sorry if this has been long winded) what's the best way to go about it do I use a second controller and it's load function or the more simpler way just connect panels direct to the heating element with a inline stat to cut power when water temp is achieved in my head the panels direct with a stat seems the cheapest and simplest way to go about it. The thing I'm lacking is the know how so if anyone is currently using this system or can throw any ideas my way as how to wire this up it would be awsome. Cheers gary
  13. Hi, Please can anyone help! We recently purchased a 70ft narrowboat (2007) with a Barrus Shire 45 engine. We have 4 ways in which we should get hot water from the boat which are listed as follows: 1. From the engine when running. 2. Eberspacher diesel system. 3. Log Burner and back boiler. 4. Immersion Heater Problem 1 We are new to boating and have only just bought the boat which was built in 2007. The engine is a Barrus Shire 45 and the coolant system is plumbed to a twin calorifier at the centre of the boat. Circulation is aided by a pump in the engine bay. When the engine is running, the hot water in the calorifier does not get hot. The expansion tank in the engine bay is also staying cool. Problem 2 The Eberspacher and Log burner are linked on one header tank separate to the engine header tank. When the eberspacher is running we get hot radiators ( 4 in total) but no hot water. The header tank is located in a wardrobe at the back of the boat which gets hot but with this system does not boil over. Problem 3 If we light the log burner a pump which is located at the back of the burner starts pumping that is controlled by a heat temp switch I think its called which senses the pipe getting hot and sends a signal for the pump to work and a light illuminates to show this is working. However the header tank which is shared with the eberspacher system does not get hot and pressure builds forcing the liquid out the small outlet pipe of the top of the tank. We get no hot radiators or no hot water. The pump starts to make a loud noise and we have had to put out the fire. We purchased the boat from a Marina who was acting as a brokerage for the vendor. We also paid over £800.00 for a full survey and this was not discovered. The Marina have just charged us £640.00 to relocate the old header tank from its location in the well deck to the wardrobe in the back of the boat as they said it was too low and have also replaced a pressure release valve and refilled with antifreeze and bled the system. This has failed to resolve the problem and the marina are now wanting over £2000 to re-pipe the whole boat! Summary We can only get hot water from the immersion heater. Eberspacher heats radiators but again no hot water - expansion tank gets hot but doesn't overflow Log burner does not heat water or radiators and header tank stays cold and the coolant is forced from top of bottle Engine doe not heat water and header tank bottle stays cold - Marina have replaced a relay on the engine pump but this has failed to resolve the problem Urgent Concern I need to move the boat this weekend to its new mooring (7 hrs cruising) and from the reading I have been doing I am wondering if it is possible that it is one of the engine thermostats that has failed. Ours has 2 thermostats, one at 71 degrees and a second at 88 - IF it is a thermostat and i move the boat - is there a chance that the engine will overheat and seize??? How can i eliminate this being a problem before I move the boat or is it worth replacing them to be sure and safe? Any help greatly appreciated - boat must move on Friday! We have had some helpful suggestions from Tony Brooks with regards to the first part of the email but the urgent concern bit only came to mind last night and made me worry a bit - Thanks in advance Joanne
  14. Titan

    kabola b8

    Just a quick enquiry folks, anyone using a kabola b8 pressure fed boiler? I would appreciate there experiences of this unit kind regards Martin....
  15. BoatMON A comprehensive Monitoring & Control system for inland boaters I am looking for a few people who would be interested in trialling a system that I have been working on for the last two years. The genesis of the project was that I was new to boating at the time and was anxious that during the prolonged periods away from my expensive investment I could be confident that it i) hadn't sunk and ii) wasn't frozen up! As my background is in electronics and for the last 20 years IT it seemed reasonable to combine these skills; thus was born BoatMON. In it's original format it simply worked as a glorified frost protection system using the Webasto heating system to keep the cold out during the winter months and monitored whether or not I had shore power. However during the intervening period much has been added and what started off as a laptop and a large box of electrical ironmongery has reduced to a unit no bigger than a lunchbox. I know there is at least one other product out there (Boat Warden) that purports to do a similar job but to me it seems that this device is not really aimed at inland boaters and to be honest seems expensive. My aims are thus: Reliability Cost effectiveness (I am hoping to be about the £350 mark for the finished article) Flexibility, I am trying to build in as many features as people request. What can it currently do? Monitor 2 DC supplies up to 20v (Starter/Aux batteries) Monitor 2 AC/DC supplies up to 300v (Shoreline/Generator/Solar output - nice to graph this!) Can control diesel heating systems (tested on Webasto so far) via a clean relay contact, optionally can switch up to 2Kw of electrical heating.Heating setting is set by a scheduler, essentially a heating 'diary', start time is automatically offset to achieve desired temperature & time. Additional On/Off and Custom temperature override settings are available, however even when Off it will still frost protect. If required can also use diesel heating to control hot water if piped to do so.Multi-zone security system with most of the features that you would find on a modern alarm system, alarm time-out, auto rearm, zone omit etc.Bilge alarm - operates a local alarm as well as remote notification.Ability to remotely switch up to 4 x 240v/10A relays to operate something of your own choice. One thought I had for this was for an automatic generator start to recharge batteries.Virtual Fuel gauge and electricity credit meter The whole thing is driven from a web interface which can be accessed local through the WiFi network or remotely via an internet connection from anything that can browse the web, PC, smartphone, tablet .... If you don't already have an internet router I can supply one suitably configured with a 'Three' data sim. As well as presenting real-time data in the web interface it also stores data for one year and presents this data graphically again in a web browser. I have found it fascinating over the two years (yes I know I'm sad!) watching the trends not only of temperatures but battery voltages as they change with temperature and age, the latter can be a useful tool in diagnosing failing batteries. BoatMON can email or text you with messages which are prioretised as info/warning/critical so you can choose which to text & which to email SO! where do YOU fit in? I am initially looking for 2-3 people to trial this for me, during the trial you will obviously have direct support from myself, updates and fixes will be downloaded directly to your device and I will try to incorporate all reasonable requests for enhancements into the updates - so you get a chance to have your personal enhancements built in at no cost. I will unfortunately have to make a charge to cover the cost of the kit but I am offering a six month no questions money back guarantee if you are not happy, all I ask is that you have a reasonable attitude to bug fixing and product development and wait until the end of the six months before demanding a refund! I genuinely welcome all comments, pro and against. Remember that I am happy to customise where practicable. So... over to you!
  16. Hi All, We have been thinking about fitting some of that cheap film that you can attach to window frames and then make taut with the use of a (12v) hair drier. Do any of you have experience with this? I've seen it used in a house, but the main issue I envisage on a boat is how to stick it securely to the wooden window frames. We want to use this on most - but not all - windows to reduce condensation and increase heat insulation. Any thoughts??? Cheers!
  17. hi all can we use one of these on our NB safely? http://www.gooutdoors.co.uk/mini-heater-hose-and-reg-p162735 we have a problem with the back of the boat never warming up, even when our stove makes most of the boat pretty toasty. we're thinking of getting some existing and currently redundant rads joined up to a combi boiler or webasto/eberspacher, but want something to keep the chill off our bedroom and bathroom in the meantime for short periods of time (maybe an hour in the morning and an hour in the evening). if something like this is no good could someone suggest an alternative?? cheers! mike
  18. Hello Canal Forum Folks This is my first post so, first off, hello. Let me introduce my boat. She's called Barnacle and is an aluminium hulled 28 foot former liveboat that runs off a solar and wind powered electric engine. I wonder if any of you folks could give me some advice about whether to install a back-boiler or not. I have a both a woodstove and a Mikuni diesel heater but, annoyingly the Mikuni only works when its sunny or windy. (When there is enough renewable energy to provide the battery power the Mikuni starter motor requires). In the winter my woodburner is often my only source of heat. I need to replace my woodburner because it has cracks in and I was wondering about replacing it with a woodburner with a back-boiler so that I would get hot water as well as heat in the winter. The backboiler would presumably be fitted with a 12v pump to feed water into my calorifier. I've asked every boat owner I know and I've got a lot of conflicting advice. Some say that back-boilers are troublesome and dangerous, others love them. Do you have any advice? I am particularly concerned about the safety aspect. My 12v batteries are often rather low on power in the darkest months of winter. The pump that pumps water from the back-boiler to the calorifier would need to rely on these batteries. The stove is in the lowest part of the boat so there is no possibility of installing a gravity feed radiator as a heat sink if the pump should fail. Any thoughts would be gratefully received All the best Gi (and Barnacle)
  19. Hi there I have a 40ft narrow boat which I live on. I have owned the boat for 1 month now and the water pressure has always been bad, but recently I drained the water tank accidentally. From then on my water pressure is extremely low, I have tried running the taps for 40 minutes but not much difference. There is another problem, I can't get any hot water. When I turn the hot water tap on the boiler kicks in and stays on for about 5 seconds in till the water pressure has gone low. (At least I think this is why it stops) Can anybody help me on what to do to solve the problem. Thank you.
  20. Hi. now that the temperatures are beginning to drop and the days and getting shorter (how bleak) i have tried out the Efel multi-fuel burning a couple of time on our new-ish narrow boat. to cut to the chase, it smokes pretty much from every crack and orifice (!), until a point about an hour down the line when it is hot and burning coal when it seems to become more efficient. This burner is tall and slender (!) with a small door down below (!) and a slightly larger one at the top, through which you can deliver fuel in whichever form you are using. the flue comes out of the back on the burner, around a third of the way down the upright cylinder of the main body. at the moment smokes leaks heavily out of the top between the body and the hot plate, between the seals of the upper door, and anywhere else it can manage in the upper third of the burner. Is this burner just a shit design?? I've not seen one of these before and can't even find a picture on google. I can see how i might be able to replace the seal on the upper door (some sort of fire-rope type stuff), but how do i totally seal all cracks, gaps and holes??? Does anyone have experience of this burner?? Can it be sorted?? It actually works well after a couple of hours, but by then we have been sitting in a very smoky boat for 2 hours!! Incidentally, despite the different design (tall and thin, opposed to short and squat) it does seem quite useful to be able to fill out from the upper door, so if we can seal it then maybe it will ultimately be a great thing. Anyone? cheers!!!
  21. Hello everyone, I've bought a 47ft Narrowboat and will be starting to live aboard very shortly. One of the things on the (ever growing!) list that I want to take a look at is the water heating. The boat is relatively young in years (2007) and hot water is coming from a calorifer fed from and heated by the boat engine. This has been working great whilst cruising however on a long term basis, when I'm moored up for a week or two at a time I don't want to keep starting the engine every day just to get a shower in and wash the dishes... I'm not going to have shore power available and having had a look and the option which keeps coming up are gas water heaters (Alde, Morco etc) However I was of the understanding that these could now not be installed under the new guidelines set out in the boat safety certificate? My certificate is due in on October, so I want to look in to an option that'll pass through no prob's... guess theres always a kettle and a bowl! Any advice would be greatly appreciated - and thanks for all the comments and posts on the forum to date, they've been so useful! Cheers, Andy
  22. I'm considering installing diesel heating on my 57ft boat. Not yet made the decision on whether to go Eber or Webasto. My question concerns the best method of mounting the parts in the engine compartment. Searching the web I've seen the various parts mounted around the compartment, or grouped together on what looks like a plate or painted board. All on a board looks neater to me such as in the picture I've attached. Is it normal practice to get nuts welded on to secure the parts, clip hoses and so on, or is there a better way? I could drill and tap into the bulkhead, or am I then opening myself up to lots of noise being transmitted into the cabin? I've picked up on the 22mm pipe for the feed and return lines to the rads - Is it acceptable to go through the bulkhead at 15mm then increase afterwards? The picture seems to show 15mm polypipe coming off the Webasto. I believe I need to get the install commissioned properly once I've done the install to check the burn etc. Can anyone recommend someone in the Loughborough / River Soar area? Thanks a lot
  23. Hello, I hope you can help. I have a single coil calorifier heated from the engine. I also have radiators heated by an eberspacher. They are on separate systems. Is it possible to connect the two systems so that the calorifier can be heated from both sources? As the eberspacher is mounted higher than the engine, would there be a problem with water from the radiators circuit causing the engine cooling circuit to overfow? Thanks!
  24. Hi all, my stove looks like this at the moment: http://imgur.com/a/oZk6q The flue needs to be replaced, and it also needs a new bit to connect the flue with the stove. What is that called? A flue collar? I'm talking about the thing in the photo that's split in two halves. Does anyone know if and where I could source this online? Are they all different for different stove brands? Thanks a lot for any hints!
  25. Hi, new to the site I am looking to remove gas heating system and replace with diesel boiler, I need advice and someone local to Crick to fit. David NB Salford Lass
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