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  1. My heating system is a Webasto Thermo Top C, it runs x2 radiators and x1 towel rack (rad)... System uses a 50/50 mixture of antifreeze & water to run through the rads. The system is connected also to a colirifier to heat water... Currently my webasto was reconditioned as the inner burner was clogged with burnt fuel. Im guessing when the boat was taken from the water it drew dirty fuel from the bottom of the tank. Webasto has been reinstalled by myself in the engine bay, all pipe work is 22mm with 15mm T offs to rads so within recommended frame work. Webasto turns over using when using control unit an fires up, inline fuel pump seems to work... Could feel coolant/water circulation through pipe work to unit. Webasto goes through start up process makes all usual noises but eventually sounds strange. Slight smoke from unit near exhaust and unit gets hot as hell. I dont trust leaving it on in this state. Even bled rads and air seems to be released. Right now i am confused with the whole set up and dont undertand why it is not working. I thought could be electrical related issue but usually a webasto would not even fire up if it doesn't receive its 12v's so again this is why I'm stumped... Any ideas or know anyone good with these systems? Getting to winter soon and would be nice to have the rads working
  2. Liveaboard on a 60ft widebeam for a year and looking for some advice re heating. Managed to scrape through last winter and hoping to get my heating sorted out for the upcoming! Our boat (2007) came with a Webasto thermtop-c water diesel heater, with 4 radiators inside the boat. in spring this year the heater stopped working (Would start up and then stop within about 15 seconds). Anyone experienced with these, is it worth getting the Webasto serviced and going again for heating and water in the winter, or should we look to replace it with a new diesel heater, e.g. the Planar models other threads have discussed? Any advice would be much appreciated. We don't have a stove currently, would that be a better use of money for a heating system? Thanks
  3. Hi all 👋, first post on here but probably one of many, I'm currently looking into the heating system I am going to install on my widebeam i was hoping you could take a look and tell me what you think and if it all looks ok. (Heating sorce: Solid fuel fire and diesel water heater Heating up - radiators, under floor heating and hot water) I am thinking of installing the bubble b1c1 corner stove with back boiler, also what are peoples thoughts on the Prity AM 12 ( https://fireplacesforhome.com/Wood-Burning-Stove-Corner-Model-Fireplace-Log-Burner-Solid-Fuel-Prity-AM-12kw ) multifuel stove? And also a webasto diesel water heater. All my heating appliances are going to run to the NRG zone 5 manifold wich does allow thermosyphon , I plan to have 4x radiators, underfloor heating and calorifier attached. The diagram is missing the PRV and the pipes from the back boiler to the heating manifold will be in 28mm. My biggest worry is the thermosyphon safety as it is going to run to the heating manifold so i dont have any heat leak. Any input would be appreciated. Kind regards Brad I've linked the NRG zone let me know what you think to using this as I can't see any post speaking about this or any manifold. https://www.nrgawareness.com/product/nrg-zone-4-5-6-32-32-28/
  4. I have an old Mikuni heating system on my boat that is working ok (despite being 20 years old!) and was controlled by a Danfoss TP5 programmer/timer. Unfortunately the Danfoss TP5 programmer has broken (the metal clip that holds the batteries in place came away when I was replacing the battery). This model of programmer is no longer made by Danfoss but a few are available on ebay but it seems sensible to replace it with a 'current' device. Couple of questions: - Has anybody replaced a Danfloss TP5 unit and if so what 'modern' manufacturer/model programmer was used? - Is replacing the programmer something any electrician/competent diy'er can do or does it need to be done by a heating engineer as it needs to be 'configured' with the Mikuni unit in some way? The good news is at least this didn't happen at the start of winter so I have time to sort out a replacement! Any thoughts/ideas gladly received. Thanks in advance.
  5. Hi, My domestic hot water is lukewarm at best when my immersion heater turned on. I'm guessing the element is in need of changing and I think I understand how to change one (there's plenty of tutorials online which seem relatively straight forward to follow). However, I was wondering if anyone has done this themselves? Any pointers/advice? The only thing that I am unsure about is a gas canister which is connected to the system. I'm guessing this regulates the pressure to and from the hot water tank? See pic Thanks a lot, George
  6. Hi, Can anyone recommend a good firewood supplier that delivers in Northampton? (Seasoned hardwoods) Thank you! George
  7. Can anybody help me sort this out? When I bought my boat it came complete with a non functioning Eberspacher D5W. I was told it needed a control board and we agreed a discount on the basis that it wasn’t working and that the part has being sought then when it arrived it would be forwarded to me. However when it did arrive some 3 months later the vendor said I would have to pay for it which is not what I thought we had agreed. I thought the discount was for my inconvenience and the fact I would have to fit it myself or pay someone to do it. Long story short I still have a non-functioning Eberspacher. I have posted 3 pictures of what I have. I do not need automation or remote control or a timer, I am happy to turn it on and off manually. It would just make more sense to me to be able to brew up a tank of hot water without running a 2 litre Diesel engine for a couple of hours. As you can see from the pictures I have a heater, a wall mounted box and a pull switch on a knob. When I connect the heater to the box with the plug and socket by the heater unit (both present and correct) and turn it on nothing happens. So can anyone tell me what is missing and or what I need to do to make this kit functional. In anticipation of your useful advice and replies, Thank you. David
  8. Hi, i'm new to the forum, fitting out my own boat currently! My horizontal calorifier is fitted and fed by a webasto and the engine take off hoses for heat, twin coil, and connected to accumulator and expansion tank just after the hot water out pipe from the calorifier. I only get 2 litres or so of hot water before it becomes cold, checked and bled the coolant side of the circuit, all fine, adjusted the thermostatic mixer valve to make sure it's not all cold mixing in. Water does come through from the hot tank, just a very small amount, so unlikely to be a blockage as water is flowing from the tank...im at a loss, any ideas??
  9. Bob692

    Heating

    We have just bought our second hand nb and everything seems fine. We are a bit confused about the radiator heating. The setup seems standard. 2coil calorifier ( engine and webasto). Both webasto and engine produce lashings of hot water but only the webasto heats the radiators. Should the engine heat the radiators by convection from the calorifier as there is no separate circulation pump or do we need to operate the webasto and use its pump and rely on it throttling back when the engine is running. I have checked there seem to no valves shut etc. Thanks from a newbie!
  10. hi I like a boat but capped off fin radiators suggest they weren’t working well so in addition to the solid fuel stove . I’m thinking of adding back boiler to stove if possible connected to radiators and a diesel heating system too. Would anyone have rough idea of possible cost as a retrofit. Thanks
  11. Hello lovely boaters, I'm most of the way through installing my heating system, I have a 75L calorifier which will be heated by the Webasto Thermo Top C. The Webasto will then go on to heat a load of rads. My question is, does the header tank have to be at the highest point. I fitted it without giving any real thought and now after thinking about it I would imagine it needs to sit higher than the highest radiator. Is that right or can I get away with having it around 30cm lower than the highest point in the system. The header tank is currently in the engine bay, nice and out of sight. I will have to move it inside the utility room if it needs to be higher, no real issue just a pain in my arse, a pain I would rather avoid. Help is much appreciated. Beau
  12. Hello lovely boaters, I've been fitting a Webasto Top C unit on my boat and today was the day it was supposed to all come together and work. As I expected it did not happen. After connecting up to the battery bank the unit would make some noise, as if it was sucking air through, I could feel the air coming out of the exhaust, no fumes. Then these diesel pump would start making a clicking noise, which got faster and faster, the unit speeds up and sounds like it's about to kick in and then it just doesn't. I did this 4/5 times hoping that it just needed a few attempts to get the diesel into the unit. Still no joy. Am I missing something obvious? It's a reconditioned unit and came with all the parts needed, anything missing I bought with Spencers recommendation. I'm hoping that I'm just being a Muppet and that I'm forgetting something simple. Please help :) going to post in a few places to gather the greatest amount of boater knowledge. If no one can help then I will look for a webasto engeneer to come and help out. Thank you all x
  13. Hi Everyone, Does anyone make back boilers to fit small stoves? Width would need to be less than 280mm. If not could I just use a zigzag of 28mm copper pipe inside the stove. I have access to a mag drill so cutting the holes should be relatively simple. I'm replacing my broken morso squirrel with back boiler with a slightly smaller 2nd hand cast iron stove and would like to fit a back boiler to it as I already have the pipe work and radiators. The squirrel boiler is just a little too large.
  14. As the winter is quickly approaching, I'm working on installing a wood stove on my stoveless (yet) boat. I'm restricted by price and size (the smaller the better). My question is from two parts: 1. What are your experiences with burning wood in smoke control areas? This seems to be a nice and cheap stove, but it is not defra approved: https://www.gr8fires.co.uk/mazona-signet-4-kw-multi-fuel-wood-burning-stove?nosto=nosto-page-category2 2. The Hobbit stove and Hobbit SE (smoke exempt) seem to be good stoves too. It looks like they have the same specs, but Hobbit SE is defra approved and allowed to burn wood in smoke control areas, while standard hobbit is not. However, Hobbit SE is £70 more expensive. Does anybody have an idea if there is going to be an actual difference between the two stoves, or it is simply the certification that puts one stove at a higher price range? The link to both stoves: https://salamanderstoves.com/the-hobbit-stove Also I'm open to any suggestions about other stoves! Thanks!
  15. Hi there, I’ve got bit of an issue with my Webasto Heater. It’s a 90 St version (9.1Kw). It’s been working well for years and I never had any issues with it. I always made sure it was working hard, I would only switch it on for 1,5 – 2 hrs max at the time, so I doubt it was ever going to “low flame” setting. Since last week it’s been switching off due to overheating. I vented the system, flushed it, vented again (numerus times) but still the same things happen. I checked the water pump, it seems all good, there’s a good flow and I cannot see anything wrong with it. What basically happens is Webasto runs for 20-25 minutes (sometimes longer, sometimes shorter) and then it seems that the coolant after the unit boils and the unit switches itself off. I think that it generally heats up the entire systems quicker than usual, it is quite of a big system, 6 rads, towel rail and a calorifier – give or take 100 lts of coolant so it was normally taking around 1hr or more for the rads to get proper warm, this now happens after 20 -25 mins. Any help will be appreciated!
  16. Our Paloma MkV is playing up. The pilot light has a tendency to go out and when I tried to relight it last week there was a bloody big fireball! I've since had Buster over to have a look at it and he's got it working again. He advised that we replace it with a sealed unit, as we have a newborn on the boat. Also he said that it's not really suitable for our situation as we have a bath and the Mrs likes to indulge every so often. Apparently the Paloma isn't designed to heat a bath's worth of water, having a recommended run-time of about 5 mins? Can anyone advise on a good replacement? Obviously needs to be about the same size so that it fits in the same nook in the bathroom. OK, not sure why the image got rotated. Turn it clockwise in your mind.....
  17. Hello! Having found some very useful anwers on here previously, I was wondering if someone might help us with a problem we've got concerning the engine. To turn the engine on, we turn the key 90degrees clockwise and wait while it beeps for about 10 seconds. This is supposed to heat the engine. Then we can turn the key down once and this will turn on the engine. Since yesterday, after having turned the key down, the engine turns on and makes a happy noise, but the beeping doesn't stop, even after a few minutes of the engine being lit. Looking at the electronics control panel,one warning light is on: "Batteries D". (We were also told that the batteries should always remain above 12.8V. The inverter is off, however, they are now at 11.7V.) Is there anything we could try to do to fix this problem? Can we run the engine anyway (we were told that the engine should be run every day in winter)? Any help or indications on this topic would be much appreciated! Many thanks
  18. Hello, I hope you can help. I have a single coil calorifier heated from the engine. I also have radiators heated by an eberspacher. They are on separate systems. Is it possible to connect the two systems so that the calorifier can be heated from both sources? As the eberspacher is mounted higher than the engine, would there be a problem with water from the radiators circuit causing the engine cooling circuit to overfow? Thanks!
  19. Hi, new to the site I am looking to remove gas heating system and replace with diesel boiler, I need advice and someone local to Crick to fit. David NB Salford Lass
  20. I'm considering installing diesel heating on my 57ft boat. Not yet made the decision on whether to go Eber or Webasto. My question concerns the best method of mounting the parts in the engine compartment. Searching the web I've seen the various parts mounted around the compartment, or grouped together on what looks like a plate or painted board. All on a board looks neater to me such as in the picture I've attached. Is it normal practice to get nuts welded on to secure the parts, clip hoses and so on, or is there a better way? I could drill and tap into the bulkhead, or am I then opening myself up to lots of noise being transmitted into the cabin? I've picked up on the 22mm pipe for the feed and return lines to the rads - Is it acceptable to go through the bulkhead at 15mm then increase afterwards? The picture seems to show 15mm polypipe coming off the Webasto. I believe I need to get the install commissioned properly once I've done the install to check the burn etc. Can anyone recommend someone in the Loughborough / River Soar area? Thanks a lot
  21. Hi all, my stove looks like this at the moment: http://imgur.com/a/oZk6q The flue needs to be replaced, and it also needs a new bit to connect the flue with the stove. What is that called? A flue collar? I'm talking about the thing in the photo that's split in two halves. Does anyone know if and where I could source this online? Are they all different for different stove brands? Thanks a lot for any hints!
  22. Boaters using damp wood and logs in their stoves could be risking a triple whammy including increased costs, stove damage and carbon monoxide poisoning says the Boat Safety Scheme. It is crucial that wood fuel is kept in a dry, well-ventilated area. If not, the damp fuel will cause the stove to run at a lower temperature as the heat of the fire will be producing steam and so the stove needs much more fuel to keep the boat warm. Even worse, the steam dissolves-out flammable, acidic tars which will cling to and block up, as well as inevitably damage, the stove and its chimney. Damaged stove installations are more likely to leak combustion gases into the cabin space, and because of incomplete combustion as the fuel is damp, those gases are more likely to contain carbon monoxide (CO) – giving the vicious cycle that could see a highly toxic atmosphere in the boat. Stove flues lined with tar could also lead to a chimney fire... ...read more at http://bit.ly/woodfuelwisdom Hope it helps forumites to avoid being hit by unnecessary costs, carbon monoxide or fire. Regards Rob
  23. Hi all i thinking of fitting secondary glazing using clear acrylic sheet and magnetic tape. Has anyone done this and if so how effective has it been. My boat has 18 windows and umpteen vent on the roof. i am looking at way of keeping the boat warmer. I have a morso squirrel with a eco fan but this only tends to heat one end of the boat. we also have a back boiler but this only heats the radiators if the fire is absolutely blazing. we are just getting the hang of keeping the fire going all night but it is still really cold in the mornings and I feel having so many cold pain of glass and draft has a lot to do with this problem.
  24. Good morning, I am looking for information about the Kabola that's installed on my boat. I believe it is functional but we have yet to try and fire it up. Any information at all regarding this type of system would be appreciated. Thanks
  25. Hey guys, I'm in the middle of trying to get my Mikuni back in action for winter and need to refill the rad system (was drained for winter by previous owner about 2 years ago). I have access to inlet and outlet pipes and the header tank etc... I was assuming just a garden hose into the header tank, and adding antifreeze, but that's where my knowledge would end and you know what they say about assuming! How do I go about:1. Flushing and refilling the system (I know how to bleed the rads here)?2. What additives should I be using?3. Any tips?
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