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Showing results for tags 'engine'.
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From the album: Spiros engine
Engine of some sort seen in Jouac, Limousin Seems to be connected to an electric motor. It is about 6 feet tall, does anyone know what it is? -
Hi I wonder if anyone can help despite the vague description that will follow... I cruised for about an hour a few days ago without any trouble at all. This evening I switched the engine on, it started fine but after few seconds it stopped, and then white smoke come up from the area encircled on the photo. Not nice. I don't want to try starting it again as I don't really like white smoke coming out from where no smoke of any colour should be coming out of. There's nothing charred, no marks and no leaks that I could see. Any ideas? Video not of while it was smoking, just to better show the area in question: Thanks
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Just found out today that my BMC 1.5 could cost thousands to repair... The chap could only have a quick look at it, but there's a major knocking noise coming from somewhere and it will only operate at very low load. Very smokey, etc. He can't get to having a proper look at it until next month, but he reckons it could cost thousands to repair... With me not having thousands, I was wondering what my other options are? It might be considering getting hold of a replacement engine - so would I have to replace it with another BMC 1.5 or can something else go in? And where's a good place to get hold of a decent used engine at a reasonable price? Thank you, James
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Hi there, We have recently been having problems with losing power on our batteries, so around 4 weeks ago, we have 4 new leisure batteries fitted. However the problem has continued. Our inverter has started beeping and the fridge is cutting off, so i think the batteries have lost power. -We had the batteries fitted by experts, so I think they were fitted properly. -We charge the batteries from the engine. And have been running the engine for at least an hour a day and sometimes up to 4 hours to attempt to recharge. -We have only been running lights, fridge, tv (sporadically) and water. No charging/laptops etc. -We only turn the inverter on when we need power from the sockets, which is around an hour a day. -We have been reassured that they were top quality batteries If anybody can help with advice as to why we are losing charge/not charging up, any advice would be appreciated, as we have no power at the moment. I am also worried that the £450 we spent on new batteries has gone to waste and that the batteries are now dead. Thanks
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Hello fellow boaters ! We bought our boat last May, moved from Bristol to Newbury to 'pick it up'. We finally set off from Newbury in September, but.. sadly.. we got a rope wrapped around the propeller, and knackered the engine - within half an hour. We've been stranded in Newbury, having spent all of our existing cash on various other 'engineering issues'. Anyway, we're full time musicians, we street perform and gig around the UK - it's a sort of an alternative combination of soul/folk in the form of an acoustic duo.. guitar and vocals with accordion.. I blog regularly about our experiences. After everything, I massively look forward to getting on the move, living the real boat life, meeting all of you.. and playing our music wherever we go. If you want to follow the journey, or just even say Hi ! Check it all online Many thanks, have a fantastic 2014 ! Bex x www.facebook.com/rebeccacullenmusic www.rebeccacullen.co.uk (for the music and blog! It's all free, I promise ) -
HI All, They're great boats, aren't they? The gift that just keeps on giving... and so, another year another set of issues... Over xmas hols i fitted new rads for a newly installed back boiler. I also finally sorted out our paloma plumbing, which was plumbed into the hot water system along with the calorifier (as one system, and therefore did not work properly, as the paloma would pump hot water into the calorifier!). But now both the rads and the hot water are not connected to the calorifier (i have put stop ends on both sets of pipes coming from it). When i ran the engine for three hours a coupe of days ago when I turned the engine off there was a hissing and quite a bit of steam coming from the engine well. When I opened it it seemed like it was coming from nearby one of the pipes going into or out of the calorifier. Am I being stupid? OK, I didn't drain the two systems that were previously plugged into it (but the rads have always been turned off at a tap new to the calorifier as they were blocked (hence new ones). But there appears to be also be a pipe going from the calorifier to a skin fitting in the engine compartment so I would have thought that if it was too hot then steam and hot water should be ejected from this? Could the hot water from the engine that heats up the calorifier element be getting too hot because there is no flow into and out of the calorifier to take the heat away? If the latter how can I block this off?? I might start using the calorifier again soon as I think I will connect up the rads again and have it feed in (with taps to turn off when engine not in use) to the back boiler-heated central heating system. Does any of that make sense?????
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Hi all, i bought a classic sailing boat with an Lister STW3 engine and a LH 150 reverse gear. Unfortunately it sticks sometimes in forward, so i decide to check the friction material of the clutch cone. To do so, i try to dismounting the reverse gear but it doesn't move off. Is it required to dismount the adaptor together with the reverse gear case? Thanks, regards, Roland
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Hey guys, When I was re-fitting out the engine room and sorting the engine out I accidentally/stupidly connected the wrong wire to one of the terminals on the alternator. The cable went up in flames and now I guess the alternator is dead.. The engine runs fine without it but the LED light is always on indicating that the batteries aren't charging. The alternator fitted to my engine has the following markings: Which has led me to the following websites after a quick google of the barcode number and model number: http://www.recambioverde.es/detalle-pieza-1572965.html http://www.hcparts.com/Default.aspx?ID=773&GroupID=RemanufacturedStartersAlternators/Alternators&ProductID=CA305IR#Austin To me this looks like a standard car alternator. Am I right in this assumption? What do you believe is my best course of action in either repairing it or replacing it? If replacing it should I find an identical model or would any alternator do? Its not essential that I replace this immediately as I have the batteries hooked up to a charger but I'd like to get this sorted before I take the boat out in Spring Many thanks for any help or advice you can give..
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Hi everyone, As discussed in http://www.canalworld.net/forums/index.php?s=5dc518cf8a09055355d099b8c954c3c2&showtopic=62621 I bought a replacement alternator and fitted it. Its exactly the same and fitted with a new belt. My problem now is the engine won't start! Initially when I turned the key nothing happened at all but after checking all the wiring is seated properly the engine tried to start. I did the usual heat for 30 seconds and then turned the key. The belt just spins and there is no sound of the engine attempting to start properly. I have checked and the diesel line is open, the battery is hooked up and the charger has been on so it is charged. The only thing I think is different is that the spring in the hole at the top right of here.. ..doesn't glow red when I turn the key to "heat". I am pretty sure it did before (although I may be mistaken). Could this be it or is there something else I should be looking for? I am still learning about engines and electrics so sorry if this is a stupid question -
Hello - I'm baffled as to what the button on the left of the dashboard is supposed to achieve - grateful for any advice.
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Hi All. Was doing a bit of maintenance on my 1.5 BMC last weekend, changed the belts etc. I've had a loose lever on the Morse control for ages, so seeing as I had the tools out, I tightened that. Realised the cables were quite loose too and after a bit of looking around and poking it looks like the whole system is a bit bodged. Where they attach to the control end, one of cables isn't fastened, so when you move the lever the whole cable (inc sheaf) moves, rather than just the wire inside the cable. Other than that, I think the system is in good condition, but a lot of adjustment is needed, ie: *Movement forward and backward is very stiff *The engine rev's loads before the propeller is engaged in either direction Has anyone played with a Morse? any tips? Is it worth trying to de-grease the inside of the cables or is it just better to buy a new set? Thanks, Jess
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Hi everyone, I hope some engine-clever people can help me figure this one out. A few weeks ago I was cruising on my boat, when for the first time ever a red warning light on my dashboard came on. Unhelpfully, this light has no label - and as it's remained off for the two and a half years I've owned this boat, I have no idea what it means. I knew it couldn't be good, but there was no chance of mooring for another hour, so I plunged on, then had to leave straight away. I did check the battery voltage on my electronic display, and everything seemed fine in that department, so I assumed it must be an oil problem. Yesterday I checked my oil - it was black, so I changed it, and for good measure I filled it all the way to the maximum level. I then started the engine with some high rev in neutral, and the warning light came back on! I idled the engine, and the light disappeared. I slowly added to the rev until the light started blinking, then added more 'til the light came on solid. At this point I wondered if it was just a case of leaving the new oil to circulate for a while, so I left the engine on idle for half an hour - to my dismay, when I came to look at the dashboard again, that light was a solid red, even on idle! All the while, the batteries seem to be charging fine. So unless the fuel filter needs changing, I've run out of ideas. The engine in question is an air-cooled Hatz (link: http://www.hatz-diesel.com/en/products/diesel-engines/l-series/product/details/name/2l41c/) and it's always been incredibly quiet. It's between 5 and 7 years old, and it's a beaut. The last thing I want to do is kill it through ignorance - can anyone suggest what this warning light might be saying? If it's practical, I'll buy a beer for whoever helps me get to the bottom of this. If it isn't practical, I buy you one as soon as it is. Thanks a lot, Noam -
I have spent the last three months (ten hours a day) restoring an extremely rare 1926 Dutch marine engine (Van Rennes) acquired from ebay. This has been the subject of a thread on the semi diesel sub-forum. I finished it a week or so ago and posted a youtube video. https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=1JKFhUvfApk This morning I arrived at work (where the engine is) to find that another individual who rents space in the same building as me, has moved my forklift truck and in doing so has managed to ram the engine. This has broken the cast iron governor casing right round and has bent the crossshaft (sort of camshaft) which drives the governor, the air start valve, the fuel pump and the oil pump. I have not seen him yet to talk to but he did not leave me a note confessing to having done this. NOT HAPPY
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Hi, Purchasing this boat and just wanted a second opinion on water in the engine bilge. I’ve attached some pictures and wondered if anyone had any advice comments as to the amount of water of the general condition of the area. its a 30ft steel hull narrow boat 1995 with a beta marine engine. The brokerage say it’s just rain water and I tend to accept then but still as a first time buyer it’s slightly concerning. cheers!
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Hi there, I’m fairly new to boat building and am in the initial stages of fitting out my boat. I did have a look but couldn’t find anything on the following questions. I have a couple questions that I could really use an experienced boaters expertise on: I currently have a 55hp canalline engine onboard with the normal two alternators, the domestic is a 12v 175A alternator. My first question is: does anyone have experience with replacing it with a larger alternator? For example a 24v 400A alternator? If yes, how did it go? How did you mount it? I appreciate running your engine is not pleasant for boating neighbours and know about the restrictions in time when running it. In order to prevent the alternator from running at idle and not pulling through that many amps, is there anything stopping me disengaging the gear wire on the engine and throttling a little bit? At the moment the main thing I’m trying to work out is if I should fit a bigger alternator and run the engine for 45mins a day or go with solar and run the risk of it getting stolen in London. I’m sure I will have loads more questions in the future but to start with thanks for your help with these two.
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Hi, I have a bmc 1.8 which has recently started letting a little coolant and steam out of the coolant cap when it has been running for quite a long time. I don't think it is a blown head gasket as doesn't have other main symptoms. Milky looking oil, bubles in coolant etc. I know this doesnt rule it out completely but want to be able to rule out other things before assuming it's an expensive issue. I fitted a new alternator belt, as was a little worn in case it was the pump not working properly. After that, was able to run the engine (without moving the boat) for about an hour and a half with no issues so thought that had sorted it. However after about 40 minutes cruising today it started to happen again. On further inspection I found a minute leak (barely even a drip) in the coolant system which I have fixed (Just by tightening the connection on one of the hoses) and have run idle again for another half hour (while it was already hot from crusing) with no issues. I'd read leaks could be a cause as let's air in which can lead to overheating so hoping this may have fixed it. But wondered if others may have further advice as to things I could look to diagnose/rule out. If it happens again my next thought would be to try a new coolant tank cap. It only seems to happen when cruising so need to move to diagnose whether various things have fixed it or not. As long as I keep an eye on it and don't let it keep running if it begins to happen again, I wondered if this posed any risk/further damage to the engine (realise that will depend largely on what the problem is) The coolant level is the same as it has always been and the main engine temp thermometer has still never gone over its usual of around 70c. If it persists I realise I'll have to get a mechanic in at some point as I'm no expert. But interested in people's thoughts as to whether there are any easy things I can mess around with myself first. Thanks in advance! Sam.
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We are about to buy our first second hand narrow boat after many years of hiring. We are after a 55 - 60 ft for extended cruising (almost continuous) and would like to do rivers as well as canals, ie Thames, and Ribble link to the Lancaster etc. Is a 38HP with PRM 120 or equivalent man enough for the job or do we need a 42 HP with PRM 150.
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Hi any advice as to specs to look for much appreciated , thanks and sorry If i have been bombarding you with lots of questions the pressure is on to get this right, as I know you’ll understand.
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Hi I bagged a bargain and now own a Lister Petter lpws4a, please correct me if I'm wrong the (a) stands for anti clockwise. I am trying to get parts for it it come without a starter and the alternator is a mess. The flywheel was also flooded and i'm praying will still spin. I am looking for some info for the correct parts for this model, I can't find a lot online atm, and I am a complete novice with engines, and now keen to learn more. Thanks for reading and thanks in advance to whom may help.
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Hi everyone this is my first post here. I have a 1982 50ft skillcraft NarrowBoat with a BMC 1500 engine in it. Recently the BMC is becoming increasingly unreliable and has a large amount of piston slap in the block. It does not smoke but takes a stupid amount of heating cranking and more heating to get it to start and it tends to run on three cylinders out of four until it gets rather high on the revs. I have done a compression test. There is almost no compression in cylinder 1 but the rest seem ok. This engine was rebuilt 3 years ago by calcutt boats who I believe are the BMC experts. After all the hassle of keeping my BMC running I have decided to remove it and install a Lister HR3 in an engine room rather then an engine bay since my boat is ripped out to a shell and I am doing a self fit out. My plans are to have the bedroom at the back of the boat and have the engine room directly after my bedroom then my bathroom and then kitchen and living area. To install my HR3 I understand that it requires good strong steel bearers for it to live on. My boats baseplate is 5mm thick and I am thinking I am going to have to have this reinforced to take weight of the HR3 as it is 400kg of engine mounted on steel bearers in the middle of the boat. Am I right in thinking the tourqe that this engine produces could be an issue or would a 5mm base plate be able to handle the stress of the HR3. The gearbox I intend to use is going to be either a PRM 101 or a PRM 160, the gearbox is to be remotely mounted away from the engine on the engine room bulkhead under the bedroom. The prop shaft would be supported by using 3 carry bearings mounted on bearers secured to the base plate. This HR3 Is an ex Generator engine and has no variable speed but I can replace the govener at a later date. Any advice is greatly appreciated Regards TCB
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Hi Boaters! I am four months in to the lovely world of boating and I have been grappling with my engine not starting for a few months. After eliminating the battery, I realised the reason it wasnt turning over was because the solenoid wasnt connecting to the starter motor. I can now start it if I lift the whole floor up and spark it with a spanner. I am now trying to find out what part I need to get so that I can turn my engine on with the key, and nothing I type into the interweb seems to be right. My engine is BMC 1.8L The starter motor is LUCAS 198, b790 12V ER (that's everything written on it) The solenoid I cant see anything written on it. Do I need a new 'connector' between starter and soenoid? Do I need a new solenoid althogether? Is there a standard model? Any advice or nudges in the right direction would be great, kind of determined to see this one to the end myself! Best, Iona Moaner and the Empire Queen
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Hello, My Canaline 38 unexpectedly cut out last week. Through following instructions of a competent mechanic we filled up the tank with diesel, drained water out of both fuel filters, changed two fuel filters, pulled through fuel the diesel until there was zero water content and then tried to start the engine. It's turning over but not starting. Any thoughts? Thank you Jo
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So we've been having issues with our raw water system - turned out the impeller shaft on the Jabsco 7860 was really scored and having a new one machined - this was letting water into the sump so have been giving her a deep clean - thought I would descale the exhaust manifold as it's full of limescale - on removal I noticed one cylinder has water in the exhaust part and little limescale while the other side has a dry exhaust but loads of limescale? Why could this be?? Also any descaling solutions that won't harm engine or environment? Thanks, Ed
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Hello Everyone, I have had to resort to a post about this as tonight I feel defeated !! after 2 months of battling with a leak in my engine room, I really thought I had it sussed ! - I have had various things to the calorifier done, including expansion tank fitted and all the joints re done, (plumer was doing some other work did this) - I have reseated the calorifier skin fitting with CT1 as I noticed this wasnt very good, - I then found a small hole near another pipe exit, where a spot of weld was missing and filled this with CT1 , really thought this was it. And yet still I find water, and a fair amount !! Alot of people say check the prop but I really dont think its this and I regularly twist the knob, but I am going to attempt to completely repack this at the weekend. For now I have put a bowl under it., I have taken some photos and even a video to try and show the issue and am desperate for some advice, I had the boat surveyed recently and he said everything was in very good conditon so am dubious to think its the hull itself leaking but starting to feel that way. I did run the eberspecher this morning for hot water and it rained lots today. I have a cratch cover and cannot figure it out ! I wondered if it was coming in through the vents but they dont seem wet ? Any help greatly apreciate, it may stop me going totaly mad. Thanks Martin http://www.martin-price.org/downloads/Engine%20Leaks/20160712_202756.jpg http://www.martin-price.org/downloads/Engine%20Leaks/20160712_202802.jpg http://www.martin-price.org/downloads/Engine%20Leaks/20160712_203654.jpg http://www.martin-price.org/downloads/Engine%20Leaks/20160712_203703.jpg http://www.martin-price.org/downloads/Engine%20Leaks/IMG_4504.JPG http://www.martin-price.org/downloads/Engine%20Leaks/IMG_4505.JPG http://www.martin-price.org/downloads/Engine%20Leaks/IMG_4506.JPG http://www.martin-price.org/downloads/Engine%20Leaks/IMG_4508.JPG http://www.martin-price.org/downloads/Engine%20Leaks/IMG_4509.JPG http://www.martin-price.org/downloads/Engine%20Leaks/IMG_4510.JPG Ps. sorry some of the photos are terrible, just home from work and tried to take the best I could on my phone with a torch, The video is a little better I hope -
Hi all, So, we're looking for some more storage space and a generally nicer looking layout regarding our engine room. At the moment, we have a trad layout with the engine room to the rear and the bed before that. I'm hoping to build a simple frame out of wooden beams, then covered with plywood. I'm removing the door to the engine room and looking to build steps up to it next to the bed. My main questions are: What size beams do I need? I'm hoping to have to avoid pillars, purely due to the lack of metalwork experience to be able to brace the pillars. The beams will span the full width of the boat (Standard narrowboat width) Is the frame I'm proposing study enough? I'm hoping the two main beams spanning the width of the boat will be the main structure, the beams running lengthways will be held by the main beams using something like this This is the "Before & After" plans I have, apologies if they are a bit crap: Before: After: Photos of the metal tabs running down each side of the engine room that I'm looking to use:
