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Showing results for tags 'engine'.
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Hello! Is it straight forward to replace / install a new starter battery to a narrowboat? How do I find out which battery to buy and is there a specific procedure to follow when it comes to removing the old one and fitting the new replacement? Thanks
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Hi, I have not started my boat in a few months (3 or so) and I am now unable to kick start it. I have oil, diesel, batteries. I have tried multiple times, maybe too many times because at some point the engine was barely reacting Here is a video of an attempt. https://streamable.com/kpwjjw
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Hi, I'm in the process of buying my first narrowboat to live aboard and have viewed a really nice boat. My only concern with the boat is the engine running hours as it's an ex hire boat. The engine is a Beta 35 with almost 12,000 hours, it was serviced a year ago and had new filters and belts but that's the only engine history I can get at the moment. Should this be a concern or is 12,000 hours not to much of a problem if the engine starts and runs well? Thanks
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Hi all, I know some boats the only gauge is almost what you feel through your feet and some boats have as many dials as an old aeroplane. So what do swear by and which ones are only useful in 'theory'? As show in the pic the last owner never finished the back cabin of the trad and most of the dials were never connected. So it needs sorting and I want to sort it out right. Love to hear your thought/opinions and prejudices on the matter!
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Hi, Please could you give your recommendations on the internal enclosure to separate the cabin from the engine, batteries etc. For a trad stern. Just getting a boat and this is the one area that is still a project. So there is the floor above the engine for the entrance. But now wall around the engine or to close off the engine bay. Beyond being: solid, sound damping, reasonable weather proof easy to clean from engine grime Ease of engine access. What madatory requirements or practical considers are relevent? What construction would you recommend? Eg plywood, metal etc How to make it sturdy and easy to disassemble? Sure there is much I've missed would love to hear your thoughts! James
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Auction of engines, outboard motors and gearboxes etc.
Tracy D'arth posted a topic in Boat Equipment
Just got notified of this auction in Lincolnshire. Some good looking engines and stuff if you are into that sort of thing. https://auctions.eddisons.com/auctions/8176/eddiso11329?primaryCategoryCode=COV&page=3&pageSize=60 -
Hi there, I am looking to sell my two Kelvin TASC-8 diesel engines, from 1986. The box is not available, but all ancillary parts are available. 8 cylinders, 31 liter. 440 hp, rpm 1200. I thought there may be a collector out there interested, or a company who could find the parts useful. Does anyone know a place that would take these off my hands? Thank you for your suggestions.
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Hi all! I've noticed that my beta 43 seems to be chucking out more black muck that I'm really happy with. As yours is my first boat and first boat engine, I don't know if this is what you'd expect. You'd can see the muck here: Any advice? Thanks!
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Hello lookking for some advice, I started my boat today and for around 2 hours was all fine. I turned it off for an hour then decided I wanted to take her out. So restarted the engine after 30 mine I smelt burning and could see smoke coming from the starter and it was red hot. after I let it cool I had a tinker around with it & thought I’d start it to check everything was all okay.... my problem is that when I turned the Isolator switch on the engine started! The engine key wasn’t even turned on! Can anyone explain to me what is wrong or why this happened?
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Hi all, we’ve recently installed 4 new leisure batteries on our narrow boat. All connections are fine and all batteries, including starter battery, are reading over 12v with a multimeter, as well as on our panel in the boat. After putting isolators back on engine started fine. We let it run for 10 mins then turned it off. When we went to start her again, the engine turned over and sounded like it was trying to start but then gave up. The battery light circled in the picture attached stayed on. Diesel level is fine and we haven’t touched anything else. Any ideas greatly appreciated ?
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Hi all, my 60A alternator has given up and I need a replacement/ repair job done. I've tried to take the alternator to car parts dealers recently, but no luck. The serial number on the unit has worn away, but the engine is a Beta four-cylinder keel cooled diesel engine. Any ideas of where to go to get a replacement, or if it can be assessed for repair?
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I admit myself confused. I get that an open weed hatch, faulty stern packing, or non functioning bilge pump will flood the engine bay - but why oh why does that sink the boat? The ballast at the bow counteracts the weight of several people standing on the stern so should be enough to counteract the weight of water in the engine bay. Am I missing something? Is the water getting from the engine bay into the main hull somehow and over weighing the whole boat? I thought the engine bay, below deck level, was a separate compartment from the main hull and ballast area. Surely there is more we can do to reduce risk of sinking?! Please can you guys clarify.
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Hi I wonder if anyone can help despite the vague description that will follow... I cruised for about an hour a few days ago without any trouble at all. This evening I switched the engine on, it started fine but after few seconds it stopped, and then white smoke come up from the area encircled on the photo. Not nice. I don't want to try starting it again as I don't really like white smoke coming out from where no smoke of any colour should be coming out of. There's nothing charred, no marks and no leaks that I could see. Any ideas? Video not of while it was smoking, just to better show the area in question: Thanks
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Hi, I have a bmc 1.8 which has recently started letting a little coolant and steam out of the coolant cap when it has been running for quite a long time. I don't think it is a blown head gasket as doesn't have other main symptoms. Milky looking oil, bubles in coolant etc. I know this doesnt rule it out completely but want to be able to rule out other things before assuming it's an expensive issue. I fitted a new alternator belt, as was a little worn in case it was the pump not working properly. After that, was able to run the engine (without moving the boat) for about an hour and a half with no issues so thought that had sorted it. However after about 40 minutes cruising today it started to happen again. On further inspection I found a minute leak (barely even a drip) in the coolant system which I have fixed (Just by tightening the connection on one of the hoses) and have run idle again for another half hour (while it was already hot from crusing) with no issues. I'd read leaks could be a cause as let's air in which can lead to overheating so hoping this may have fixed it. But wondered if others may have further advice as to things I could look to diagnose/rule out. If it happens again my next thought would be to try a new coolant tank cap. It only seems to happen when cruising so need to move to diagnose whether various things have fixed it or not. As long as I keep an eye on it and don't let it keep running if it begins to happen again, I wondered if this posed any risk/further damage to the engine (realise that will depend largely on what the problem is) The coolant level is the same as it has always been and the main engine temp thermometer has still never gone over its usual of around 70c. If it persists I realise I'll have to get a mechanic in at some point as I'm no expert. But interested in people's thoughts as to whether there are any easy things I can mess around with myself first. Thanks in advance! Sam.
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Hi there, I’m fairly new to boat building and am in the initial stages of fitting out my boat. I did have a look but couldn’t find anything on the following questions. I have a couple questions that I could really use an experienced boaters expertise on: I currently have a 55hp canalline engine onboard with the normal two alternators, the domestic is a 12v 175A alternator. My first question is: does anyone have experience with replacing it with a larger alternator? For example a 24v 400A alternator? If yes, how did it go? How did you mount it? I appreciate running your engine is not pleasant for boating neighbours and know about the restrictions in time when running it. In order to prevent the alternator from running at idle and not pulling through that many amps, is there anything stopping me disengaging the gear wire on the engine and throttling a little bit? At the moment the main thing I’m trying to work out is if I should fit a bigger alternator and run the engine for 45mins a day or go with solar and run the risk of it getting stolen in London. I’m sure I will have loads more questions in the future but to start with thanks for your help with these two.
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Hi, Purchasing this boat and just wanted a second opinion on water in the engine bilge. I’ve attached some pictures and wondered if anyone had any advice comments as to the amount of water of the general condition of the area. its a 30ft steel hull narrow boat 1995 with a beta marine engine. The brokerage say it’s just rain water and I tend to accept then but still as a first time buyer it’s slightly concerning. cheers!
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Hi any advice as to specs to look for much appreciated , thanks and sorry If i have been bombarding you with lots of questions the pressure is on to get this right, as I know you’ll understand.
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We are about to buy our first second hand narrow boat after many years of hiring. We are after a 55 - 60 ft for extended cruising (almost continuous) and would like to do rivers as well as canals, ie Thames, and Ribble link to the Lancaster etc. Is a 38HP with PRM 120 or equivalent man enough for the job or do we need a 42 HP with PRM 150.
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Hi I bagged a bargain and now own a Lister Petter lpws4a, please correct me if I'm wrong the (a) stands for anti clockwise. I am trying to get parts for it it come without a starter and the alternator is a mess. The flywheel was also flooded and i'm praying will still spin. I am looking for some info for the correct parts for this model, I can't find a lot online atm, and I am a complete novice with engines, and now keen to learn more. Thanks for reading and thanks in advance to whom may help.
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So we've been having issues with our raw water system - turned out the impeller shaft on the Jabsco 7860 was really scored and having a new one machined - this was letting water into the sump so have been giving her a deep clean - thought I would descale the exhaust manifold as it's full of limescale - on removal I noticed one cylinder has water in the exhaust part and little limescale while the other side has a dry exhaust but loads of limescale? Why could this be?? Also any descaling solutions that won't harm engine or environment? Thanks, Ed
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Hi everyone this is my first post here. I have a 1982 50ft skillcraft NarrowBoat with a BMC 1500 engine in it. Recently the BMC is becoming increasingly unreliable and has a large amount of piston slap in the block. It does not smoke but takes a stupid amount of heating cranking and more heating to get it to start and it tends to run on three cylinders out of four until it gets rather high on the revs. I have done a compression test. There is almost no compression in cylinder 1 but the rest seem ok. This engine was rebuilt 3 years ago by calcutt boats who I believe are the BMC experts. After all the hassle of keeping my BMC running I have decided to remove it and install a Lister HR3 in an engine room rather then an engine bay since my boat is ripped out to a shell and I am doing a self fit out. My plans are to have the bedroom at the back of the boat and have the engine room directly after my bedroom then my bathroom and then kitchen and living area. To install my HR3 I understand that it requires good strong steel bearers for it to live on. My boats baseplate is 5mm thick and I am thinking I am going to have to have this reinforced to take weight of the HR3 as it is 400kg of engine mounted on steel bearers in the middle of the boat. Am I right in thinking the tourqe that this engine produces could be an issue or would a 5mm base plate be able to handle the stress of the HR3. The gearbox I intend to use is going to be either a PRM 101 or a PRM 160, the gearbox is to be remotely mounted away from the engine on the engine room bulkhead under the bedroom. The prop shaft would be supported by using 3 carry bearings mounted on bearers secured to the base plate. This HR3 Is an ex Generator engine and has no variable speed but I can replace the govener at a later date. Any advice is greatly appreciated Regards TCB
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Hi all Over last week's very cold spell the light on the engine temperature warning light came on, accompanied by the it's sister, the terrifying beeeeeping sound. I switched the engine off and hoped that the complaint was about the ridiculously low temperature, but as switched it on again last night it happened again. I'm now guessing the engine is overheating and not very cold. (Sorry for not knowing much about engines by the way). So which one is it and what are the most likely causes of this? Thanks a lot
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Hi everyone, Hope you are all enjoying the winter. Ha ha! Unfortunately for me I dropped my keys while I was cycling about a month ago and have not been able to move my boat. I tried to explain to crt but they are really angry with me now for overstaying (even though I kept phoning them up to explain the situation and my boat is only 20ft long!!!). So i need to move her now somehow this week. Will probably try to stop a fellow boater for a tow but would much rather start her without the key. Would you have any ideas how to do this? A friend once showed me on his boat he had to start it without the key and he used a butter knife to cross two terminals on the back of the ignition barrel and it started the engine. Would anyone be able to advise me on how to do that? Any help on how to get her started without the key would be really helpful. And before you make any jokes, yes it is my boat ha ha ha! Thanks for any help yous can give me out there. And hope you are all staying warm in this cold. x x x x x x x x x
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Hi. I have a norwegian displacemeant / semi displacemeant Tresfjord 26 boat and im thinking about chancing the propeller. 8m long (waterline is 7.4m) and 2.8m wide, draft is 1m. Boat weights 2500kg fully loaded. Beta engine is rated 43hp @2800rpm, prm 150 gearbox is 1:2,09. It says on beta's website that the right propeller for beta 43 with gearbox ratio of 1:2 is a three blade 18x12. Would a 3 blade 18x13 propeller be over pitched? What kind of propellers do people have with this same engine and gearbox setup and what is the achiavable max engine rpm. I dont want a propeller that is oversized and i wont be able to reach 2800rpm My current propeller is a vetus 3 blade 16x14 and im getting maximum of 3000rpm and at cruising speed my propeller slip is 40% Regards Henri
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Hi all I have Cummins Diesels v8's 1969, Marinised by Parsons in 1970 and fitted by Van Lent to my boat in 1971,so its a mix. The engine mounts are original and have sat down more than a little. Hence some vibration. Would anybody recognise these mounts or recommend suitable replacements ? Regards Liam
