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Hi all. So- new batteries, new inverter, added 2x100w solar panels and STILL off grid power seems to drain. Take last night. Had to run engine for 2 hours to get to 12.6v. Bed time 12.3v. This morning 11.3!! Only thing running is the fridge at 35w and the inverter on power save mode at 0.2w. Any thoughts?? Would be welcomed.?

Hi All, Can anyone recommend a good electrician near Milton Keynes please? Kind Regards Adam

After 5.5 years it has come time to replace the batteries in our leisure bank. Because of miscellaneous access, placement and space factors ‘built into’ the boat by the original fit-out, our present leisure bank consists of two 170Ah and one 105Ah battery. They are all sealed wet batteries -- same type; same brand -- replaced new at the same time, but different sizes. I was going to simply replace all with the same again, thinking 5.5 years (CCing for most of that time; 200w solar topping up in season) doesn’t seem bad. BUT I have recently been advised that as the two 170Ah batteries will be ‘overworking’ or ‘pushing’ the single 105Ah battery, adding that single 105Ah battery wasn’t really adding much to the bank. At least not as much as I might think. I didn’t have a chance to clarify this at the time. Can anyone shed some light on mixing different sized batteries?

Hi I noticed, when I took my boat out on t' cut this weekend, that my inverter beeped every now and then. It stopped too quickly for me to see what the issue was but I'm guessing it might be my 240v counter-top freezer. I'm assuming that when the freezer kicks in there is a surge of power being drawn. I've tried to find out what the wattage rating is for my freezer, but even the manufacturer's website doesn't reveal this. I've attached a photo of the label on the back of my freezer and I'm hoping that someone marvellous on this forum with better electrical knowledge than me could shed some light - what do you reckon? Cheers Adam

Hi all, So my solar cable got cut due to the way the cable was running through the bracket, I have gone to buy some solar connectors from maplins, can anyone confirm these are the right ones. The lady in the shop was surprisingly unhelpful... This is what I got : http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/maplin-cn40-a020-high-power-solar-connector-n55ln Is it as simple as just fitting this connector? or should I replace the whole cable Thanks for your help Martin

Hello, First post here so please be gentle! haha OK, I'm literally weeks away from getting my 60' sail away. I will be a continuous cruiser liveaboard and regularly moving around the canal and river waterways. Engine is a Canalline 42 with 1x 50A and 1x 175A Alternators. I'm planning on getting a Webasto water heater/boiler too to compliment multi fuel stove. I have done some sums and require around 120Ah a day for things like, 12v fridge, pumps, boiler, laptop, TV, lighting, phone charging etc. (Actual is 80Ah but I wanted a good amount of wiggle room). I'm planning on filling my roof with solar and would like to use Victron equipment (apart from solar). I'm planning on: 5x 285w Monocrystalline Solar Panels totalling: 1425w (It has an approx 42' cabin / roof space) 1x Victron SmartSolar 100A MPPT Solar Charge Controller 1x Victron BMV-700 Battery Monitor 1x Victron SmartSolar LCD display 1x Victron Multiplus 1600VA Inverter 70A charger 16A relay 12V I'd like to use solar as much as possible to power my needs but haven't decided upon batteries just yet. I'd like your comments on qty and type of batteries I'd need to keep everything tip-top, if I'll need a generator for the winter months (likely Honda EU2.0i using LPG). Is the above all too overkill or will I struggle in the depths of dark winter? I would like to use a washing machine every so often but if batteries would get hammered I can use Generator for that. (obviously not on hot washes). I'll be getting an electrician to do the install (apart from solar panels on the roof). Thanks Jono

We currently have four 6 volt leisure batteries and they seem to be in a bit of sorry state, with one of them bubbling acid and therefore potentially dangerous. Two of these batteries are Trojan T-105 and the other two appear to be cheaper unbranded alternatives. Due to other ongoing expenses on the boat we're looking to replace these with minimum cost and are thinking of putting in two 12v batteries instead. I'd be grateful for any advice on this and recommendations regarding specific batteries that would be suitable alternatives. As far as i understand the Trojan T-105 batteries have a very high 225ah capacity, giving us a total capacity of 450ah if replaced like for like, compared with probably about half that if replaced with two reasonable quality 12v alternatives, but I suspect we could probably get away with this. We've only been boating for a couple of months and it would be interesting to read the advice of others and to learn what set-ups they use themselves.

Hi there new to the community so I hope it's alright to create a new thread. The narrowboat I'm currently looking to purchase is set up with an alternator, 3 new 12v batteries, no inverter, mains cabling throughout. There is also a generator on board. I'm sorry I can't provide specifics at this point, but even general advice much appreciated. If I continue with the purchase, I'm intending on putting on 4 Renogy 100 Watts 12v Monocrystalline Solar panels and doing my best to use the engine for power as minimally as possible (going into winter I realise that the solar is not going to give much power). The current owner will also be putting on a new 12v Fridge if I go ahead with the purchase. The appliances I intend on running would be a toaster, iron, TV, record player, iMac (I already own this and not looking to replace it), Laptop charger, Mobile charger. I'll be replacing all the current lighting with LED. There is currently a Washing Machine on board but the owner says its best to remove it as its on the mains (makes sense, although I would consider keeping it if anyone could provide a realistic solution). Stove and oven will be gas, have yet to decide on a water heating system. The current gas boiler is defunct. Currently considering a new gas boiler or a back boiler for the burner (no burner currently on board looking to purchase) to fuel hot water (taps, shower) and heating (there are radiators throughout but I'm not sure if they would be necessary once I purchase the burner - she's 63'. To be clear I will not be mooring up and 'plugging in', so everything needs to be off grid power. My knowledge is limited so being completely open, I apologise if my questions appear naive any support appreciated: Is it better to consider investing in a good inverter, or should I look at transformers on an appliance by appliance basis? If primary usage was 12v, would installing an inverter affect functionality or can you run both 230v and 12v with an inverter? I'm not particularly keen to keep the generator but would anyone advise that I do and why? Instead of an inverter or transformers would anyone's opinion be that I simply run the engine (with alternator) when using non-12v appliances, and why? I want to reduce emissions and costs from over using the engine unnecessarily wherever possible. Will the current 'all mains' wiring cause any problems with purchasing 12v appliances e.g. the fridge. If I wanted to consider keeping the washing machine what would you recommend having in place? Thank you for your advice.

Hello All, So having recently bought my first canal boat I am slowly adapting to canal life, and following lots of helpful advice from this forum I am having some new electrics installed (solar panels, inverter, batteries etc.) And taking some advice from other forum member I am now going to address my lighting and plug socket (more USB ports and LED lighting !!) So what I would like to know can anyone recommend some LED ceiling lights, are these straight forward to change from what I currently have, they look like a small flourecent tube. Is it just a case of changing the wires? Would I need to put a fuse in the cable line? Also what cables do people recommend for their 12v electrics and any tips on where to purchase these would be really apreciated. I would also like to install car lighter type plugs or usb plugs and wondered if anyone could recommend a good one of these and is it simple to just 'insert' these into an existing cable ring. Do I need to be careful how much I run off one ring, should I install a fuse as well? If so what type is good? Any advice greatly apreciated. Thanks for reading Martin

My Nespresso machine refuses to work when fed by my non-sinewave inverter or by my generator. Is there a smoothing gadget available that might improve the waveform of my A.C.? I don't want to spend hundreds!

Hello, We have just put a deposit down on our first narrowboat and although its are very exciting, its a little daunting so we am looking for some advice. It currently has a Eberspacher hot air heater under the bed - does anyone know about these, is it worth keeping? This is what the surveyor said An Eberspacher D1L hot air heater was installed under the double berth in the forward cabin. There was a thermostat and control unit in the cabin. Ducting was no longer connected to vents and some joins in ducting had been made with duct tape. Recommendation Either decommission Eberspacher hot air heater or commission a qualified engineer to inspect the heater and its installation prior to its use. We are just wondering whether its worth keeping hold of and getting serviced or whether we should just get rid of it? Also any recommendations for an electrican and also a gas engineer in london would be very much appreciated. Thanks for your time. Emily & Juan

Hi all, For a while I've been toying with the idea of buying a narrowboat to continuously cruise along the London Canals, for a few weeks or so I've been doing a fair bit of research but for some areas I still haven't found the answers I'm looking for so thought I'd turn to you guys to see if you can help me out at all! Apologies in advance if some areas have been discussed already and also, if any of the questions sound silly... I really am a complete newbie to this... 1. As I mention - I'll be CC along the Canals in London, so have been researching what distance as I need to travel each week, obviously don't want to take the mick and want to stay on the right side of Canal and River Trust. However, their website isn't totally clear on how far - all I can see is that in a years licence, 15-20miles is expected, which seems more than fine. But how far is the minimum? Just for an example, say I started in Little Venice and was travelling East, how far would I need to travel to satisfy the Canal and River Trust for say one weekend I didn't want to travel 'that' far? 2. Which brings me on to my next point - as I read, each 14 days would be the time I top up water, which would top up my batteries (as I'm moving) and usually empty the loos out. May seem like a silly question but are these water points at regular intervals? Similarly, to electric points? (if I needed it half way) Also, are loo-emptying-places at regular intervals also? 3. Again, brings me on to my next point of water storage tanks and electricity batteries... my budget is around 25k and aiming for around a 40ft-er trad steel narrowboat so from what I've seen, many don't have a tank or seems quite small. If so, can this be retrofitted and to what cost? I understand becoming more frugal is all part and parcel of it (which I'm excited about) but for say a 10/15minute shower a day - what sort of tank should I be looking at to tide me over for two weeks? However, I guess this would hinge on question number two! In terms of electricity, I don't watch a lot of TV but would like to charge my phone, listen to music, have lights! Where should I even start with what to look for to tide me over 2 weeks again? 4. I guess this question is more to the nitty-gritty when I view but what are the main tips/points you'd recommend to look out for a bad conditioned narrowboat? Is there such a thing? Don't mind buying something that requires a bit of modernisation but in terms of 'behind the scene' stuff, what do I look for when looking at an engine? At the electric board? Heating system? Or should this all be taking care of at survey stage? Anyway, I think that's probably enough for now on my first post. I really would appreciate any tips/answers - no matter how big or small! Really excited to be buying - just need to get my head around it all first!! Speak soon, Nat

Before embarking on installation of my AC system, if anyone could share any information on the following I would appreciate it. According to the RCD (recreational craft directive) is the following AC system acceptable? (I shall start form shoreline connection to AC outlets) Shore line connection plug fed into an RCD (residual current device) within 0.5 meters form the plug, the RCD shall be housed in a waterproof box next to the plug (a garage box). This RCD shall feed into two single pole MCBs, one connected to the diesel immersion heater, and the other connected to the inverter. Out of the inverter I propose to feed another RCD, housed within the electrical cupboard which shall feed two other single pole MCBs, a 10A MCB for a ring circuit of ac sockets (12 sockets, which I know is a large amount for one ring, but with 2.5mm cable and a smaller MCB this will reduce loading the sockets with the full whack of the 3KW inverter), and the other 12A MCB for a washing machine. My main question is... Does the galvanic isolator need to be connected at both RCDS or would connecting it to the first RCD ground the inverter through the galvanic isolator? Or do both RCDs and Inverter require grounding through the galvanic isolator. I will also be connecting the inverter to the batteries but that shall be for another day. Thanks, Will

Hi there, I've got one of these (see pic below), but want to change it for something that can take more solar panels and is a bit more modern. We use it with a 60A alternator, and 1x 100w solar panel (although I think this regulator can only take up to 60w solar. We don't have a wind turbine. It only seems to produce a max of 14.1v when the engine's on (even after hours of cruising) and recently has been hitting 15.1v through the solar panel - which seems a bit high?! I'd like to replace it with a charger suitable for the alternator, and maybe solar as well. Do I need to get a separate charger for the alternator, then an MPPT charger for the solar panel (I also want to add either one or two 175w solar panel to make 275w or 375w in total). We have 3x 110ah leisure batteries and a starter battery, and a Sterling 1600W pure sine wave inverter that is yet to be hooked up.. Any advice, brands, models to watch out for etc, most welcome! Cheers, Alistair

Hi all. I should begin by saying that I'm not the most talented when it comes to matters of electrickery, so please be gentle with me if I've overlooked something glaringly obvious! I'm hoping to be able to pick someone's brains about a problem with my inverter/charger. It's a Studer Compact C-1312, and I'm also connected to shore power. The other evening, the inverter suddenly went off - completely dead, no lights on the display panel, and won't come back on. I'm also not getting any 240v in the boat through the shore line, and neither are the batteries charging (apart from when I run the engine). The 12v still works fine (water pump, lights, fridge, freezer, 12v sockets etc), and I've checked that the shore power hasn't tripped. The shore lead is also fine, and there are no obvious loose wires anywhere that I can see. I've also got a Travel Pack, and I get 240 when I run that, but nothing otherwise. I've got a manual for the Studer, but the English isn't the best (especially for a numpty like me!). I'm hoping it's something simple (and cheap!) like a fuse blowing, but I can't see any fuse holder on the outside of the casing. I haven't yet removed the cover, but does anyone know if this inverter has a fuse inside? Or any other possible causes/solutions? Many thanks in advance

Hey guys and gals, I'm sure it's something simple I've done wrong here but I've wired a 12v socket that has 3 cigarette style sockets and 2 usb sockets. I've tried wiring it in to two different connection points, where the lights are wired to and when I connect some things, especially my 12v laptop adapter, all the lights flash like a rave. Does anyone have any suggestions? Do I need to wire something in between to stop the "surge" or am I being too simple with my wiring? Thanks in advance.

Hi there, first post on here after reading for a few years! we are currently planning our first fit out of a new boat! I have done all calculations necessary and calculated cable diameter however one thing that i feel like i need some advice on is the actual circuitry of the boat. I have put together a quck schematic of what i am currently thinking in terms of the installation however it would be great to get some feedback from you experianced boaters! any advice is more than welcome and thank you in advance! Alex Full Electrical Schematic -BS EN ISO 101332017 & BS EN ISO 132972014-.pdf

Hi, I have just looked at a 36ft Springer (perhaps early 80's) narrowboat for sale, priced at 10,000, as a project boat. No survey yet - owners have had her for 3 years, in those years they have replated on both front and stern after a survey, and blacked and annoded once (now due for renewal) The project: 1. Pre-purchase: Survey + It is due blacking, annodes and engine service (potentially the costs of this, and any replating needed, could be deducted from 10,000 boat cost) 2. Interior Hull: Need to create access in the floor to the interior hull as it there is currently no hatch etc. - Whilst doing the floor, thought would be a good idea to swap (apparently lumps of metal) ballast for engineering blocks, and, do work on the interior steel hull if needed (wire cup brush, rust treat with Vactan, and overcoat with something - bilge paint OR red oxide???) - Then insulate, plywood boards, and wooden board flooring. 3. Panelling: Taking down wall and ceiling boards which have been B&Q bodged in, to be able to redo with nicer wood, but most importantly, electrics and plumbing. 4. Wiring: There is wiring for 12v and 240v, however 240v is not plugged in at the moment, and the owners are running off solar (owners don't trust the wiring) SO would need completely re-wiring the solar (as it is currently just strung around the boat), utility battery for ceiling lights, 12v sockets and 240v sockets, and waterpump for shower/water. 5. Plumbing: There is also plumbing, but they currently don't use as they removed the old watertank, and currently run off a jerry can of water for the sink, and a cassette toilet. The plumbing also currently runs under the floor, so all old plumbing needs to be ripped out, and replumbed in the wall cavities - would like to plumb in sink, shower and potentially septic tank toilet, and then need to get a new watertank. 6. Other Misc: There is a working gas oven and hob, which seems to be fine and functional, so maybe gas is ok? Also a good, working coal/wood burner. Although engine needs a service, she ran well, when they took us for a 1 hr cruise, i think it is a Lister aircooled engine. So, if the survey all went well, does this sound like too much - In all honesty this would be my first narrowboat, but I am on a budget, hence only being able to afford budget boats. Time is not an issue, although being able to live in it by spring would be great. Main questions; - does the tactic to restore the inner hull sound like an ok approach, if it needed doing? What is the realistic expectation for the steel interior hull of a 80's Springer? - is wiring/plumbing possible to do myself, or is it needed to have a professional for BSC and insurnnce? In which case, how much could i expect for full plumbing/wiring? - what work could i expect to do myself, and what should i look for quotes for? Any advice will be HUGELY appreciated in terms of costs expected, or time taken, or regulations to adhere to when doing up a boat. This boat, technically is liveable, as they have been fine for 3 years, but needing this work, what price for it would be realistic? Thank you!

When connecting a new bilge pump direct to the batteries, my spanner accidentally touched the the hull whilst loosening the positive battery terminal. This resulted in a small, but very definite spark, which puzzles me. I didn't think there was any contact between batteries and hull, so why would I get a spark? I do not have any shore power circuits (do have a small inverter though). Does this spark indicate something might be wrong? Any enlightenment would be appreciated.

Hi there, I am in the process of buying a narrow boat, sail away hull. I have been trying to do many calculations to figure out all of the electrics in the boat. Please tell me if i have got any of the following wrong as im finding that i'm a little stuck. The residential mooring i am planning on using has a 16 amp pylon for a power supply. I have been looking at an Alde 3020 for the heating system attached to a 40l Calorifier for the hot water. The Alde system uses around 1000w which is around 4.3 amps, the Calorifier has a 1kw heating element in it so that's another 4.3 amps. Would you need to use the heating element or would the alde heat provide enough to heat the water on its own. I also have been looking at a standard fridge to cut down on the cost. These at their max they are 750w so that's another 3.3 amps. Then with a microwave oven using 1850w in use max so thats 8 amps. In total that's around 20 amps. That's not including all of the little things in the boat. The main thing i am asking is a) Has anyone got an alde and does it use less current than my calculations. 2) Would i have to use the heating element to heat the hot water up all the time or is the adle enough. 3) are the pylons at the CRT residential moorings defiantly 16amp Thankyou in advance. For extra information. I am getting a 50ft Sail-away to live in the centre of Birmingham

Hi All, I have a ford 1.8xld with Bosch alternator, also the boat has a smith industries tacho, which has never been connected. I have searched and found links from other sites, as I understand it the Tacho is wired to ground and to the 'W' terminal of the alternator. See pics. As you can see from the alternator picture, the 'W' terminal appears to be missing, I am assuming that I will have to connect my own terminal her, probably by soldering. Is this correct ? The second picture is from the back of the Tacho. Assuming this is the wiring diagram, single ind is a single alternator setup, dual ind, for a dual alternator setup. So if I am reading correctly, 'W' connector from alternator, to pin 1 of Tacho, pin 2 of Tacho to Ground. And now if I wanted to connect the second Alternator, then the same for pins 3 and 4 ? If any one can just confirm or deny, been a while ( 18 years ) since working on this type of equipment.

What should a new boat DIYer read whilst working on their project?

Hello! Having lived off grid for 3 years, using only the 12v system I find myself in a marina with the opportunity to connect to shoreline and I was wondering: 1. Can I use 12v devices whilst connected to the mains? 2. Does the mains hook up charge my batteries? Thanks in advance.... Diana

Afternoon! Quick(ish) query. We are continuous cruisers with a 63ft narrowboat - no shore-power. We are planning to get a washer dryer, just to do a couple of washes every fortnight or so. We have an inverter (Mastervolt 12/2000 - power 2000w, max 4000w), battery bank, charge from engine type set up. The washer dryers we are looking at all have a power rating of around 2100 to 2200w. I just want to know whether the inverter could handle this machine (with the engine running of course)? We have a 3.2 genny but it is noisy and would rather not use it and also I see that there can be problems with washing machines not working from gennies cos of the sine wave blah blah (I know nothing about this). I know that they are thirsty on water etc etc and some people don't agree with having them if you are a cc without shore-power etc etc, but if we run it once a fortnight for maybe 4 or 5 hours can we do this using our present inverter whilst running the engine (either whilst cruising or stationary)? Does the 4000w maximum inverter spec mean that it can comfortably deal with a machine drawing 2200w?? Hope you can help! Mike