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  1. Hi all, I've been working on my boat and thought it a wise decision to touch base to benefit from anyone else's advice. I have the following setup: Shore Connection Socket (Charges batteries from 220v shore ) 3 Pin 220v Shore Connection > 50A Fused Isolator Switch > Automatic Inverter/ Charger > Consumer Unit > the rest of the boat. 220v Solar PV to Leisure Batteries (Powers 12v leisure batteries from solar panel energy) 215w Solar Panel > MPPT Charge Controller > Automatic Inverter/Charger > Inline Battery Fuse > 2 x 12v Batteries in Parallel. 12v Battery Connection (Powers electrics when not plugged into a shore connection): 2 x 12v Batteries in Parallel > Inline Battery Fuse > Automatic Inverter/Charger > Consumer Unit > to the rest of the boat.
  2. Hi all Looks needing to use power tools on the 2kw pure sine inverter. When running these large loads with high inductances how wise is it to push the inverter? Or should leave a good over head like push no more than 1.5kw? Thanks again James
  3. I'm in the process of taking over maintenance of a lovely narrow boat that my dad's getting too old for unfortunately. I'm very much a newbie and the kindness of local boat people has got me pretty far. However, while I've managed to install a new leisure battery and so have power, I need to do some maintenance that means plugging in a drill, but none of the 240v sockets work. I've tried flipping the switch on this control, but it had no effect. With each setting I continue to get power from the battery, but never via the sockets. Am I warm, or barking up completely the wrong tree?
  4. Can anyone help? I’m changing my batteries to AGM and need to install a DC/DC charger (CTEK D 250SE, which I have). I’m not sure if my battery is even using a battery charger at the moment. is that possible? I’ve tried to install it but I’m not confident enough to be sure it’s done correctly so I was wondering if any boaters on here have experience with installing this charger? Or if anybody has a number for a boat electrician who can help that wouldn’t break the bank (London, W10 area).
  5. Hello all, Sorry for the long post and the rather basic questions, I am a genius with computers but a complete novice when it comes to boats. I have recently become the owner of another cabin cruiser after receiving a second chance offer on eBay and am after some advice/guidance on renovating her. This was the original advert: 20ft Cabin Cruiser Chenise is a great little family cruiser ideal for both river and sea, she has a forward cabin equipped with sink, work tops, bench seating with storage under, top hatch with integrated fan and two under counter cupboards. The V shaped hull is designed to form a bed with the appropriate cushions and boarding. A 12v inverter is fitted to power 240v equipment via the solar charged battery such as dvd player, radio etc. The rear deck has a full canopy witch has recently been re-proofed, the flooring is decking planks with an access panel to the electric bilge pump. Bench seating with loads of storage under including manual bilge pump. Water from the bilge and sink is ejected via built in ports. Steering wheel and remote controls for the main engine, cabin door with padlock clasp, window and port hole with removable panel. The decks have anti slip plates, bow rails, bow anchor roller, tie off points etc. 2x nav lights and 1x rod holder. Main Engine. Mercury 40hp (pull start) connected to remote steering and controls, last serviced November 2014. Great motor and moves her along on both river and sea. (see below) Auxiliary Motor. Mariner 2hp. Small unit but pushes her along to get you home if main engine should fail. Recent service with new impeller, oil etc. Chenise is a great boat and has given us some good family weekend fishing / cruising etc. She is currently moored at Heybridge Basin in Essex offering great cruising and fishing and access to the sea via the manned sea lock. It is possible to sail to Chelmsford stopping off at supermarkets and pubs on the way for great family days out. (Moorings available) Chenise was bought with the intention of a full refurbishment but enjoyed her so much we never got round to it and just enjoyed her “as is”. We have now purchased a larger boat hence this sale. Bad Bits. Used boat 2 weeks ago and all fine but now can’t start main engine, started to rub down cabin but never finished. Needs some TLC but will come good. Viewing welcomed and encouraged. Was purchased in this location so no trailer. If you buy to remove she will need to be sailed through sea lock to a slip way about 15 min sail at the cost of £30 to use slip way. (aux engine will get you there) Less than 10 feedback score please contact me before bidding! UK buyers only. You bid to buy, not view or haggle so please come and view if you have any concerns as this is now relisted and I really need the mooring for new boat Pictures can be viewed here: http://s287.photobucket.com/user/southeastbikers/library/Chenice?sort=3&page=1 The pictures are from two adverts, the original sale in August, which apparently fell through (and then the Mercury outboard unit stopped working) and how it looks now with the yellow/green interior, sink, and worktop units. She is cosmetically a tidy cabin cruiser but I need help with creating a 'plan' of things required to have her canal/seaworthy as I wish to take her from her current moorings out of the sealock and around to other rivers/routes (she is currently on a 13mile navigation that does not connect to anything else) So far I have secured the rights to her moorings and insured her with AIG (Insured her as a Microplus, although any confirmation would be great!), and thankfully at this stage she does not require a BSC due to being moored at the Basin, but obviously this would be necessary to take her on either the current navigation or any other inland waters. My first priority is to have the outboard repaired and hopefully have this running, having no experience of outboards and limited experiences of boats in general this will certainly be an adventure/challenge, I am currently attempting to contact the previous owner to obtain the 'auxilary engine' mentioned in the advert as this was not left on the boat, nor were any batteries or other marine items. My questions are: The boat apparently has 2 navigation lights but I have not seen a fuse panel like we have on our other boat, infact I am not sure how any of the electrical components are being powered so would like to fit a fuse panel, are these panels difficult to wire in yourself and do they need to meet any sort of requirements? What one would I require? According to the advert, there was a small auxilary engine (which we are still attempting to obtain), other boats we have seen have these mounted on a square block that protudes from one side of the transom, but our boat does not have this, is there a specialist mount we require to mount this next to the main engine? I aim to kit out the interior further, do I require a particular foam/wood for this purpose? I am not a fan of the padlock/clasp cabin lock, are there any issues with fitting a general yale-type door lock to cabin doors? I'm sure I will come across more on a closer inspection over the weekend, but all help for now is much appreciated!
  6. Hi, the BSS says that cables between a battery and - another battery, or - an inverter over 1000W, or - a master switch, - etc, should be "sufficiently" big: "must be approximately 25mm2". To me, "approximately" means "as long as it's really safe". With two leisure batteries of 110Ah in parallel, is it safe to have a 16mm2 cable between them? I have seen 16mm2 cables on several of my friends boats. I am wondering whether I should propose to change their cables to 25mm2. Also, if a cable to the master switch is 16mm2 and has a 50A fuse, that should be safe and hence pass BSS, right? PS: Woops, I cannot change the title anymore, it should be "25mm2". Mistyped.
  7. We have a Beta 43 engine with twin alternators. The domestic 150A alternator charges four domestic AGM batteries which are now just over 2 years old. The boat and the alternator are nearly 9 years old. Normally the domestic alternator charges at a voltage ranging from 13.8 to 14.5 volts. On a recent trip it was charging at 14.8 to 15.2 volts. The batteries were not hot after several hours at this charging rate. I have no way of measuring the current at which it was charging. Should I be worried about this and what might be the reason? We have no separate regulator between the alternator and the batteries. We do have a solar panel (100W) charging the same four batteries through a regulator. The solar installation is also about 2 years old. Any ideas?
  8. Hello, I have a Lugger generator (Model number: M673LD3.5) and it keeps tripping out (or appearing to) when i switch to generator input - there isn't a load on it at that point and the fuse is intact. Any ideas? Does it just need a service? Thank you for any help
  9. The use of an earth return for onboard electrical equipment is discouraged as it is a potential source of hull corrosion ? YET most of us use high power alternators with exactly that, so what's the difference ? If a few mA from a radio will cause damage, think what 100A will do !
  10. Hi there, I'm about to buy a boat which has been fitted out (electrics-wise) for shore power, with loads of 240v plug sockets everywhere, TVs, Kettles etc, but we don't anticipate or want to be hooked up at all. What I was wondering was if anyone has had experience in changing this sort of setup over to a 12v, battery-based setup, and what challenges they faced whilst doing so. Is it just a case of removing the external hookup point, connecting the internal wiring to the existing 12v loop (which runs the cabin lights etc) and replacing the 240v sockets with 12v ones? Maybe keep one or two and run through a separate, inverter-containing loop from the battery bank? I don't expect it to be that easy but hopefully it won't mean ripping the walls apart! Cheers, Alistair
  11. Hi All, Does anyone out there have a SM Hudson boat 57' plus, with engine room and boatmans cabin built within say the last 5 years and would allow me to view there boat to help with a boat build on my unfinished Hudson shell? Would be very much appreciated. Regards John
  12. Does anyone know what the diameter/pitch is on an A127 shaft thread please? I am pretty sure it's some variety of M17 but can't remember whether it's M17 x 1.0 or M17 x 1.5, and I don't have the alternator handy to measure. N
  13. Good evening everybody. This is my first post here after joining so forgive me if my questions are a bit basic (or thick). I am serious about moving on to the water to live. It is something I have been wanting to do for a long time as bricks and mortar are not really for me. However I am a complete novice when it comes to the world of canal boats. I have been on them and even stayed on one before but I have never been involved in owning one or knowing anyone who has. And so before I buy a boat which I have seen I have a few basic questions relating to making a leisure boat suitable for living aboard, and please forgive me if these questions have been answered a thousand times before. And so in no particular order, if anyone could help me with these questions to start: Survey: Not knowing much about boats I assume it would be sensible of me to have the boat surveyed first, can anybody give me a rough idea of costs involved? (I was chatting to another boat owner when I went to view it and he had worked on the boat and said it was in really good order mechanically,had low hours on the engine, had recently been blacked, and had a long safety certificate etc... Plus he said it was the same owners for 14 years and they looked after it really well and this is reflected by the overall decent condition the boat was in when i viewed it) Electrics: The boat currently has a 12V system running the lights and a 12V fridge. As I have a small number of appliances which would require traditional mains sockets what would be the most cost effective solution to providing power for these? Batteries: The boat has been up for sale for quite a long time (over 9 months i think) and the owner only comes out every now and again to turn over the engine and occasionally take her out. Is there a simple way to check the state of the batteries or would I need to rely on a full survey? Hot Water: The hot water is currently supplied by this method: 'engine cooling water circuit is fitted to a vertical calorifier' - As i understand it I would need to run the engine every day for a couple of hours or so to provide hot water. What is the best/most cost effective alternative to this system so that I could have hot water without running the engine? Heating: The boat currently has a solid fuel stove which is connected to two radiators for heating. Is this the most effective way of heating the boat or are there better alternatives? These are the most basic questions I have at the moment and I would really appreciate any advice you all can give (after browsing the forum for a while I know that have more money is probably the most valuable advice). Finally, my plan is to be as independent as possible which means not using a residential mooring and so having limited access to on-shore power so any advice on starting up, converting a leisure boat to a live aboard or any other general advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks for all your help Dave
  14. Not exactly boat related but I've always found this forum to be full of knowledge. I recently replaced the motor in my Miele C3 powerline vacuum cleaner. When I turn it on, it builds to full power but when it gets there, it loses power like it's been turned off. Just before it stops it builds to full power before losing it again, then builds again and so on. It's as though the current needs regulating. What could be the problem and what part would I need?
  15. Have any of you ever had your narrowboat or widebeam struck by lightning? I've read various yachty stories over the years but these have almost always been GRP yachts with a tall alloy mast stuck on top. When it happens reports of fried electronics seem commonplace. So what happens on a steel-hulled boat? Does the lack of a 20 metre mast pointing skyward mean it almost never happens? Does the steel hull act as a faraday cage and protect everything that isn't electrically connected to the hull, like phones and laptops? What about electrical appliances that are permanently wired in or plugged in at the time? And what about solar panels on the roof, or [gulp] your shiny shiny electric propulsion motor & electronics?
  16. Hi all, I’m a technical noob, but I know how to operate a crimping tool. Which is what I think I’ll be needing to do... Trouble is, I don’t know what switch to buy and try out my crimping skills on. I recently discovered the source of my electrical problems with the 12v lights in the kitchen area of my boat, which had been intermittent, and then failed utterly. It was this: The area around the mid hatch was leaking in heavy rain, and running down inside the boxed in wooden conduit beneath the hatch, where it pooled around the switch, rotting the wood there and eventually corroding the terminals on the switch until one basically just corroded right through. As you can see from the photo, the legend on the switch reads ‘<on 10A 250V >on’. The switch appears to originally have had just the three terminals on the back, the two that are still attached, and the one that corroded through. Can anyone tell me what such a switch is likely to be described as on websites, (I get confused by all the ‘DPST’ ‘SPDT’ stuff) or, better still, provide a link to a like-for-like replacement? It’ll need to be UK based and hopefully able to deliver in the next couple of days. Thanks!
  17. Hi Everyone, I am hoping you might be able to help. I am having a 60ft semi-trad josher built for initial use as a leisure boat but with a view to being a 5day a week live aboard within a year of splashing her. I am a bit of a geek and really like the remote monitoring capabilities of the Victron kit via the Cerbo GX but am really not sure whether the following is the full electrical supply and distribution spec or if I have missed anything? I am also thoroughly confused at to whether a travel power unit is entirely necessary given I will have dual alternators on the Beta 50 including a 175amp domestic alternator as well as a starter battery alternator. I really would appreciate a quick review of the following or if someone is electriclly minded a wiring diagram???: Beta marine 50 with dual alternator and remote oil filter as extra (+ other adaptions we discussed) 3.5 KVA travel power (unsure if this is required given the spec below would appreciate some advice) 4 x Victron Lithium LiFePO4 12V - 100Ah battery with Bluetooth 3 x Victron Smart Battery Sense - 10 Meter Range 1 x 12v load dump battery (lead acid) 1x 12v starter battery (lead acid) 1 or 2 bow batteries for bow thruster (lead acid) Victron smartshunt Victron Lynx Distributor x 1 Victron Lynx Power In x 2 Bluesea isolator main switches 3 x Vicron VE.Can resistive tank sender adapter (1x blackwater, 1x fuel, 1x water tank) Victron Multiplus Inverter Charger 12/3000/120-50 Victron Cerbo GX Victron GX Touch 50 screen Victon dc-dc convertor (unsure if required or sizing. If installed is a dump load battery required?) Victron Digital Multi / Quattro Control 200/200A GX Victron Smart CL BMS 12/100 Shore Power - Galvanic isolator - Sterling Power ProSave E 30AMP 1 x Victron 150/35 SmartSolar MPPT Controller - with in-built bluetooth technology - https://midsummerenergy.co.uk/buy/solar-panel-kits/foxes-afloat-canal-narrowboat-600W-flexible-stick-down-solar-charger-kit-with-victron-smartsolar-MPP 4 x 120W Miasole Peel and Stick Flexible Solar Panel - with 5 year warranty 2 x Pair of 5m solar cables with MC4 connectors 1 x 1.5m Harness 10mm2 with inline fuse 4 x Waterproof Double Cable Entry Glands – black Victron Bluetooth Smart Dongle Victron MPPT Control Monitor Cheers guys Steven
  18. My first post as a new member. All comments/help much appreciated. We've just bought our first narrowboat after many years as hirers. I'm now trying to get my head around what we've bought! I'm making progress but the electrics are leaving me stumped. The boat is well equipped with 12v, 240v, shore power, victron 1500w inverter/charger etc. and lots of wires! Can anyone suggest a good book to help me understand what it all is and how it all works?
  19. Hello all! This question must do the rounds, but i am in the market for new leisure batteries for our liveaboard narrowboat. we have two solar panels, but recently even after cruising we have a shortage of electricity in the evening. seems like they're just not holding their charge (i just got a multi-meter - will test them tomorrow). they are a little over 2 years old anyway. i am planning to fit three new ones - currently we have 2 x 110 ah lesiures but there is space for 3. i have been looking at the numax 110 ah for around 75 quid each, which apparently come off the same shelf as Lucas batteries. What about these traction batteries, although we only have a 55amp alternator. we are pretty careful with the electricity we use, but we have just bought an electric fridge (!) - a Shoreline RR102 (can't find amp/hour usage rates - anyone?). Can we realistically operate this fridge/freezer (along with lights, radio etc) with 3 leisure batteries, running the engine once or twice a day for an hour or two? If not do you have any suggestions? cheers!!
  20. hiya quick query!! our narrowboat started life as a holiday boat and so there is an absolute proliferation of unwanted 230v/115v shaver sockets!! these are big and heavy with internal transformers, currently unused but connected to our 230/240v system powered by our inverter. can these unwanted sockets be rewired into normal 240v plug sockets?? also, can someone enlighten me as to whether we (terrestrial, and riverine with inverters) use 240v or 230v?? i always thought it was the former, but someone told me this has changed to the latter?? am i being wound up?? is the earth not flat? SB
  21. morning all!! i recently replaced my water pump to something a bit more powerful as i had issues with water pressure and my paloma not working very well, now there is plenty of pressure, in fact so much so that the water does not have time to get hot enough now as it passes through the boiler too quickly (the opposite of what i had before which was water too hot, but with the addition of cold reduced the pressure and so stopped the boiler burning - they're pretty contrary and fickle these boats I'm finding out!!). the new issue is this: when i try and turn the hot tap down a little (or even the cold tap for that matter) the pump sort of only comes half on, judders a little and the lights flicker. what is going on with this???? with the old pump if i turned the tap down a little there would still be a steady decrease in pump speed, water pressure etc, now it seems like the pump only likes it when the taps are full on, not half on?? And why would this affect the electrics?? has anyone had this problem before? yours rather frustradedly SB
  22. Hello, I need some advice please - I'm slowly getting my head around things but struggling with electrics, so please excuse the very basic questions! Spent ages searching for the info, but none the wiser... I don't have an inverter on my boat, I'm currently on shore power. I'm going to leave the marina and start cc'ing. What would be the best option for being able to charge a phone sometimes & maybe plug in a radio & a lamp? I don't have any other appliances to run. There are a couple of 12v plug sockets & the rest are 240v. Can you get something to plug into the 12v socket to allow you to plug in a 240v appliance? Would one of those USB car charger things be best for the phone charging? Do they convert 12v to 240v? Basically, I don't think I need a big inverter installing, I don't need to use most of the sockets, or use much power. But I don't know a simple solution to this. Sorry if these are silly questions, I appreciate any advice
  23. Can anybody help me sort this out? When I bought my boat it came complete with a non functioning Eberspacher D5W. I was told it needed a control board and we agreed a discount on the basis that it wasn’t working and that the part has being sought then when it arrived it would be forwarded to me. However when it did arrive some 3 months later the vendor said I would have to pay for it which is not what I thought we had agreed. I thought the discount was for my inconvenience and the fact I would have to fit it myself or pay someone to do it. Long story short I still have a non-functioning Eberspacher. I have posted 3 pictures of what I have. I do not need automation or remote control or a timer, I am happy to turn it on and off manually. It would just make more sense to me to be able to brew up a tank of hot water without running a 2 litre Diesel engine for a couple of hours. As you can see from the pictures I have a heater, a wall mounted box and a pull switch on a knob. When I connect the heater to the box with the plug and socket by the heater unit (both present and correct) and turn it on nothing happens. So can anyone tell me what is missing and or what I need to do to make this kit functional. In anticipation of your useful advice and replies, Thank you. David
  24. Hi, I have a twin alternator set up (with a Merlin battery management system) to charge 1x110a starter and 3x110a domestic batteries. The alternators are sometimes charging (14.05ish volts on the multi-meter for both) and sometimes not (12.5 - 12.8ish volts for both). Any ideas on what would cause them both to stop charging while the engine is running?
  25. Martinb

    Sr3 charging

    Hi all. We have a air cooled SR 3 with one starter and 3 new 130ah leisure. We are noticing that despite cruising for 5-6 hours we are not getting above 12.6 at most. We are running a 2000w inverter and 240v fridge. We have a single alternator charging the batteries. Even if we turn off the inverter when cruising it doesnt get any higher. Any ideas why we are not getting a full charge as we are finding we can barely last 24hours with not alot running.
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