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Showing results for tags 'corrosion'.
Found 8 results
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Hi all, New boater-to-be here and after the advice of those who have seen more baseplates than I. The boat I am in the process of buying has just had its survey. Still awaiting the report itself but my chat with the surveyor didn't bring up anything concerning. After the fact, while perusing some photos I took, I've become a little alarmed by the image below of the baseplate. Clearly it's been unprotected and the boat is 25 years old so it's hardly going to look pristine but to my untrained eye it does look a little concerning. Does anyone have a better idea of what I'm looking at here? Normal corrosion, MIC, alien life? Essentially, anything I should be worried about?
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Evening, this boat has been out of the water for 24 hours. Wondering if these are normal rust patches or microbial/biological corrosion.
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Hi, sorry if this is a stupid question. I viewed a boat for sale today and looking through the file I noticed it was originally built in 2007 with a bow thruster tube. In 2014 the owner decided they weren't going to use the bow thruster tube and because it caused condensation on the boat, and made access to shut off taps difficult they had the tube removed and 2 plates were welded to the hull openings. Will the extra plates that were welded on be a vulnerability or have any negative effects on the hull? Thanks
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Evening everyone. New to boating and currently have an offer in on a 1997 Colecraft built to 10/6/4. Could do with some advise on whether or not to proceed with it. The previous owner, who had her from new, seems to have taken great care of her with documentation, invoices, and logging of all expenses over the years. However the more I read up about it, the more concerned I am about corrosion on the hull, particularly to the base plate. This excerpt comes from the survey: The base plate was originally fabricated using 10.0mm plate (nominal). Ultrasonic measurements showed the base plate to be between 10.0mm to 8.6mm reducing to 7.5mm at the aft outer edges. Pitting was widespread at up to 2.1mm. Is this level of corrosion typical for a boat of this age? The asking priced of £54k seems steep if remedial work may be needed sooner rather than later. Will follow up with the surveyor on Monday, who didn't make any recommendations relating to this, but keen to get some other opinions too. For what it is worth, the side plate has some pitting to 1mm and there is currently no galvanic isolator fitted, which I would do before connecting to shore power again. Many thanks! Hamish
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just taken over a boat and there s a patch on the roof about 2 inches square that is badly rusted and pitted, may need some form of filler. What should I use?
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Just back from blacking our boat for the first time (40ft live-aboard, 2002 build) and slightly paranoid about electrical corrosion after seeing first hand the amount of pitting on her sides and bottom. There is widespread pitting of 3 or more mm across the baseplate. We cleaned and blacked it all (well except for where she was resting on the bearers), but are now looking to what we can do to prevent further corrosion worsening the state of the hull. We intend to get an isolating transformer to deal with any stray current from the shore line (we are permanently attached at our home mooring) but then I also got to thinking and realised that our mooring is directly beneath overhead power lines (see picture below ...) So what I want to ask is - is it possible/likely that stray current from high voltage power lines could cause electrolytic corrosion to a steel boat hull? If so, how would one measure such a stray voltage and what could be done to insulate the boat from it? (Aside from moving to another mooring, which we are likely going to do anyway as a precautionary measure!) Any insight from the electrically minded much appreciated. CT
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I am an experienced wood worker but have little knowledge of boat building. A friend asked me to help with the refit of the cabin interior on a canal boat. When completed the boat will be operated by a charity to provide trips for school children. The framing behind the plywood was rotten in places so I have replaced it with pressure treated timber. On removing a screw which had been put in approx 10 days before there was corrosion on the threads. I used 'normal' yellow plated screws. Searching the web suggests this is caused by a change in the chemicals used to preserve the timber (for environmental reasons). The advice is to use stainless or galvanised fixings. At this stage in the refit it would be possible to change the screws to stainless. Hower it occurs to me that as the timber is in direct contact with the steel hull perhaps treated timber was not a wise choice in the first place. Should I start again?? Any advice or suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks.
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I Recently wrote a post trying to determine the builder of a boat I was interested in buying. Turns out it was most likely a colecraft (I emailed pictures accross to them), it also had just a 6mm baseplate but I wasn't worried about that. The surveyor had a look at the hull today...and I'm now a little worried about that 6mm baseplate Turns out the sides are generally ok with some slightly thinner bits on waterline (as expected). Though since 1984 the baseplate (having never been balcked) has slowly been corroding and now it has widespread pitting on two thirds of the baseplate though is better at the front. The worst areas were found to have been 4.2 and 3.2, leaving at worst case 1.2mm of steel . The surveyor recommended overplating 2/3rds of the baseplate and if the sellers account for this and co-operate with the boatyard for the repair costs then I've no problem and would still buy the boat as I like it quite alot. I'd probably put some of my money in to plating the bow end baseplate also just to make it a complete job and put my mind at ease. If they don't I will obviously walk and shrug off the survey costs as 'one of those really annoying things that can't be helped'. I thinks this definitely goes to show however that it is absolutely, 100% worth blacking a baseplate, as there can be no doubt they corrode, (albeit over a long time). I just wondered people's thoughts on the situation, would you take the same stance as me, as long as the sellers come down and overplating is done well then it should all be happy days!?...shouldn't it? Any views appreciated :-) Pete
