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Showing results for tags 'coolant'.
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HI All, They're great boats, aren't they? The gift that just keeps on giving... and so, another year another set of issues... Over xmas hols i fitted new rads for a newly installed back boiler. I also finally sorted out our paloma plumbing, which was plumbed into the hot water system along with the calorifier (as one system, and therefore did not work properly, as the paloma would pump hot water into the calorifier!). But now both the rads and the hot water are not connected to the calorifier (i have put stop ends on both sets of pipes coming from it). When i ran the engine for three hours a coupe of days ago when I turned the engine off there was a hissing and quite a bit of steam coming from the engine well. When I opened it it seemed like it was coming from nearby one of the pipes going into or out of the calorifier. Am I being stupid? OK, I didn't drain the two systems that were previously plugged into it (but the rads have always been turned off at a tap new to the calorifier as they were blocked (hence new ones). But there appears to be also be a pipe going from the calorifier to a skin fitting in the engine compartment so I would have thought that if it was too hot then steam and hot water should be ejected from this? Could the hot water from the engine that heats up the calorifier element be getting too hot because there is no flow into and out of the calorifier to take the heat away? If the latter how can I block this off?? I might start using the calorifier again soon as I think I will connect up the rads again and have it feed in (with taps to turn off when engine not in use) to the back boiler-heated central heating system. Does any of that make sense?????
- 16 replies
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- calorifier
- engine
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Hi, I have a bmc 1.8 which has recently started letting a little coolant and steam out of the coolant cap when it has been running for quite a long time. I don't think it is a blown head gasket as doesn't have other main symptoms. Milky looking oil, bubles in coolant etc. I know this doesnt rule it out completely but want to be able to rule out other things before assuming it's an expensive issue. I fitted a new alternator belt, as was a little worn in case it was the pump not working properly. After that, was able to run the engine (without moving the boat) for about an hour and a half with no issues so thought that had sorted it. However after about 40 minutes cruising today it started to happen again. On further inspection I found a minute leak (barely even a drip) in the coolant system which I have fixed (Just by tightening the connection on one of the hoses) and have run idle again for another half hour (while it was already hot from crusing) with no issues. I'd read leaks could be a cause as let's air in which can lead to overheating so hoping this may have fixed it. But wondered if others may have further advice as to things I could look to diagnose/rule out. If it happens again my next thought would be to try a new coolant tank cap. It only seems to happen when cruising so need to move to diagnose whether various things have fixed it or not. As long as I keep an eye on it and don't let it keep running if it begins to happen again, I wondered if this posed any risk/further damage to the engine (realise that will depend largely on what the problem is) The coolant level is the same as it has always been and the main engine temp thermometer has still never gone over its usual of around 70c. If it persists I realise I'll have to get a mechanic in at some point as I'm no expert. But interested in people's thoughts as to whether there are any easy things I can mess around with myself first. Thanks in advance! Sam.
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Help and advice please! Apologies in advance for being completely clueless, but I'm here to hopefully learn how not to be... This morning I turned on the hot water (Morco gas heater) to do the washing up.. Water didn't get hot so I went back to check and the pilot light had gone out. There were loud rattling/banging sounds coming from the calorifier. I turned off the water pump and the sounds continued for about 20 seconds. I've tried turning on the pump again and the sounds come back. I have realised that the coolant for the 2 litre expansion tank has run dry.. Is this the cause? How much damage has been done by allowing the coolant to run dry? I currently have no understanding of how the system is put together so don't know what connects to what, what feeds what, etc... All I know is that sound is NOT GOOD. Any help greatly appreciated. I appreciate the info I've given is a little convoluted: please be gentle, I've only had the boat for 6 days...
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- calorifier
- water pump
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Morning, a riddle for you all. Symptoms; - Pump running intermittently (every ~30seconds), but no evidence of a leak so far (checked all joints). (I also first replaced the pump and the issue has remained, so I've ruled pump failure out). - Engine coolant is mysteriously overfull (has not been touched since I flushed and refilled before winter, and has been at a good level until now). - Taste of antifreeze when showering. These issues all arose in the same week - is there any connection? My current theory is a failure in the coil connected to the engine in the calorifier. This is causing the pump to run, pushing water into the engine cooling loop, and simultaneously leaking engine coolant into domestic supply. Given the cost and contortion required to fit a new calorifier, are there any more tests I can try to confirm? Or has anyone got another solution? Many thanks, Andrew
- 8 replies
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It's two years since I replaced the antifreeze in Theodora's cooling/central heating circuit. The coolant now looks clear of the blue colour that it originally had and is slightly rusty. I assume that at this stage any inhibiting properties that the antifreeze had are now gone. I think that I am right in thinking that the antifreeze is ethylene glycol and that this is the right sort for my BMC 1.5 with plastic and copper in the ch/calorifier circuit (The circuits all use the same coolant it circulates through both.) What I would like to do is simply restore the corrosion inhibitor rather than find somewhere to recycle a large quantity of ethylene glycol solution. I have found this which I hope would mean that I would not have to drain my system and start again. (I need a bit more antifreeze but not much, just to make up the concentration.) no-rosion This would seem to fit the bill but it is only sold in the US AFAICT Then there is this from ebay. I would need to add two bottles full, about £28 worth to my system to provide the 1:50 mix that they advise. Is this the right sort of stuff though? Hoping for some advice. Nick
- 10 replies
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- coolant
- antifreeze
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Hi Having successfully carried out my own engine service on my Isuzu 42, I was pondering changing the coolant but was unsure how to go about this. It has a skin tank and the hoses are much lower than the engine. I've had the boat for nearly four years and it is eight years old. Does it need changing? I've tested the coolant and it's good down to -17. I've also got an Alde 3010 gas CH system, this is also good down to -25 degrees C. I imagine there must be drain plugs somewhere . I'm also no sure what coolant to use, the current colour is pink. Steve