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Found 7 results

  1. Hi ya'll well, I am now looking at putting my Alfie back to a useable condition. That means I would like some advice on electrics and hot water. I will need to run my 3-5 cubic foot fridge and TV with the odd burst of a coffee machine. Maybe my washing machine too when I could possibly turn everything else off to make it viable. Also since my Alfie took a turn for the worse, I have had very little signs of hot water, and not quite understanding the Calorifier need to know why it too has given up the ghost. Also my shower was running on 240v so is it feasable to have a decent 12v power shower installed or should I rely on the inverter for that as well.
  2. Benno 1688

    What pipe where

    Hi I have fitted a calorifier only problem is I'm not sure which hoses go where. Does the one from the water pump end go to the top of the calorifier or the bottom. And what happens if I get them the wrong way round.
  3. Hello all, I recently reinstalled my calorifier and plumbing during a major refit. There are only 4 outlets on the calorifier an inlet and outlet for engine coolant and and inlet and outlet for water. Before disconnecting anything I was very careful to note whiche pipes went where and noted 'cold in' and 'hot out' on the corresponding in/outlets. (there is additionally an outlet that has always been a bleed valve that was never touched) Its all connected up fine and is pretty much the same set up as before just with new piping. But I've noticed a few things that are different. The first thing I have noticed is the water pump runs for longer than before and takes longer to come on than before, this I assume means the accumulator is doing a better job for some reason? but this is trivial compared to the other thing... The cold taps are hot...and so are the hot taps. why might this be happening now when it wasn't before? I have the same fittings (bleed valves, stop cocks etc) as before in the same configuration. I assume that for some reason both taps are drawing water from the calorifier, or worse ALL the water in the boat is somehow being heated possibly including my water tank (not a great idea) An easy fix would presumably be to install a one way valve (if these exist in push fit form) in the cold feed just before the calorifier. But I would rather understand why this is happening... Any suggestions are much appreciated.
  4. We always de-scale our kettles, steam-generator iron etc. using white vinegar, does a great job. Recently we de-scaled the radiators on some of our company's buses using the same method. Our calorifier is not getting the water as hot as it usually does, I blew down the pipe in both directions and got a load of crud out and then used the hosepipe to force all the air out and re-prime it. It's a lot better, but still not 100%. Next I'm going to fill it with white vinegar (which we can buy by the gallon very cheaply) I'll run it for a bit then flush it out. Anyone else tried this method?
  5. SiFi

    Lister 1992 LPWS4

    From the album: Lister LPWS Calorifier

    This is the best I could manage in a failing light.
  6. From the album: Petes

    Direct heating of calorifier from engine etc via a plate heat exchanger. Includes thermostatic valve for top down heating, so only part of the calorifier can be heated if need be.
  7. Hi I'm going to install a Eberspacer this year and am thinking about replacing my leaking Calorifier at the same time. (I've an old air cooled engine so the Eberspacer will be the only way to heat the water.) So using an Eberspacer how long does it take to heat up your Calorifier and what size is your Calorifier ? I'll then have a better idea about what size I need. If it only takes 10 mins or so to heat up a 40 litre calorifier - for showering why would I need anything bigger (I don't liveaboard) ? Do people use anything smaller for 5 to 10 mins showers ? Or have I got it all wrong and am living in dream world ? Thanks Andy
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