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Hello all, Unfortunately despite my best intentions I am need of some advice regarding my battery bank... I have only just become aware that I need to equalised my batteries some how this information slipped my mind during all my research and planning for my batteries. I think I thought my controller or multiplus did it automatically as its soo bloody expensive I have also been relying on my battery monitor telling my my SOC, I now understand this may not be the case. And would appreciate any advice on what I can do now... My system is: 6 x T105 Trojan 6v 225ah batteries that are just over a year old. I rarely run them below 80% and regularly check and top up water. 930w of solar and Outback FastMax controller Victron Multiplus 12/3000/120 Inverter/ Charger Victron BMV700 Battery Monitor Honda eu20i for charging This issue which recently arose... my inverted has started flashing low battery when running my washing machine on a cold wash (which used to be fine) I thought it could be the washing machine malfunctioning as it is an old one but someone said its my batteries and has lead me to learn despite me thinking I am taking good care of them perhaps I am not :/ So, I have bought a hydrometer : https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Pro-Hydrovolt-HYDRO-VOLT-Lead-Acid-Battery-Hydrometer-Electrolyte-Tester/322082591860?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 But don't really know what to do with it and would appreciate any advice, I know this is lots written about batteries and I have been reading it but any advice specific to my situation would be greatly appreciated as I don't want to do any more damage to my expensive and rather lovely batteries. Which I am hoping I haven't done too much damage too. I am going to charge my batteries now using my genny and look at the amps going into the batteries to see when a tail current (1-2% of capacity, 6.75 - 13.5amp for my 675ah battery bank) is reached this should hopefully tell me when it they reached 100% more accurately than my battery monitor. I will then run an equalisation charge, I have looked at how to switch this on with my Victron Mulitplus, I will set equalisation to 8.10v (indicated on the trojan website) I am then planing on setting my float charge (on my multiplus settings) to the same as my absorption charge 7.05 - 7.35 as this will bring my batts to 100% state of charge quicker when I am charging as I only charge using a generator I will not leave it running on float for very long. If I have made any errors please let me know, thanks again for any advice. Martin

Lidl are selling inverters for £22.99 this weekend. 2 questions:- As the Cello TV on my little boat appears to be dead as a dodo, should I buy one of these inverters and buy myself a cheap little 2nd hand TV from somewhere and run it off a battery? Will I be able to connect said inverter up or does it need amazing skills and know-how wot Olive does not currently possess? (New 12v TVs appear to cost loadsa money, hence my questions). Thanks y'all Olive

Hi everyone, I've read many posts relating to this but what I have seems slightly different...but only slightly. i have just bought a boat that with the exception of having a split charge diode arrangement seemed to have its charging regime all figured out. Battery Banks: 1 port battery 12v 2 tabs battery 12v 3 house system 12v 4 diesel heater 24v both the engines appear to be put through a split charge diode to charge the house system and their respective starting batteries which Is leading to a lower voltage than I'd like which assuming is volt drop across the diode at the house system. The 24v system is charged by a 12v - 24v battery charger by sterling. The house system has a sterling inverter charger fitted. My question is what is the best set up for this so that I can charge batteries from either engine? I was originally thinking a sterling 2 input 4 output. Zero volt drop splitter....but with the battery to battery charger is that actually the best. As I have now also seen alternator to battery chargers that split the charge and claim to fully load the alternator or similar to charge quicker. I'm sure everyone has a different view based on their own ideals or good experience but would very much value your input. thanks Dave

Just looking to get a little 12v tv finally. Think 28" is going to fit my requirements but can't find any 1080p. The Cello website shows only 720p in that size yet smaller tv's with 1080, so I'm confused. Maybe its just not worth having that high a resolution on a small screen (dpi count will be very high) but then how come smaller screens are available in 1080p? Couple of sellers on ebay showing Cello tvs with 1080i (28") but when you delve into the spec they say only 720. Anyone know of a 28" 1080p 12v set or am I asking the impossible? Maybe I should just go 720 or perhaps with a 240v tv? I'll be viewing across the width of the (narrow) boat so won't be far away.

Hi all, We currently have 3 x 125ah leisure batteries powering the fridge, lighting (mostly LED) and water/waste pumps. The bank is charged by a single solar panel through an EPSolar MPPT charge controller. This was fine during the summer but with winter fast approaching we are finding that come the morning there isn't enough juice to power the pumps for a shower. We are mostly marina based so would like to add in a mains charger to top up the batteries once night falls. Electricity is metered so would only want to charge from shore power when necessary. Currently we achieve this by attaching a car battery charger using crocodile clips - it works but isn't a viable long term solution. The charger only has trickle or fast charge and is manually selected. I was also a little wary that I might be sending current to the solar panel instead of away from it, but it hasn't blown up yet So, my questions are: Is there such a device available that I can connect both the solar and a 240V charger to and it automatically selects which input to charge the batteries with, prioritising the solar? Maybe even with automatic health programming to allow the batteries to discharge periodically to keep them healthy? Failing that, if I just get a decent 240V charger that automatically switches charge mode, will there be any problems permanently connecting that directly to the batteries in addition to the solar, and just turn it on when required? Or should I connect them via, say, a rocker switch to manually change from solar charging or 240V charging? What fuses would be required? Can someone recommend a decent multistage 240V charger? I'm sure I'll think of something else as soon as I've posted this, but it will do for starters :-) Thanks in advance.

Can anyone recommend a small freezer (preferably 12v) for a narrowboat? I have a 12v fridge with a small freezer compartment, but I'd like a little bit more freezer space. The smaller the better. I've seen tabletop/mini ones that are about 2ft square. Something even smaller again would be perfect. I only have 240V/16A coming into the boat, so the less amps it uses the better. Very confusing when most are measured in kW/hour annually. Thanks!